What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 143 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

This design of "teeter-totter" motorcycle lift is based on the same idea of the Canadian Army WW2 motorcycle service lift but is much narrower and therefore would not be very steady and prone to tip over sideways. Particularly if the bike on the lift was heavy.
AFJ
Thanks! I was actually thinking that also looking at the link I sent...I'd probably add another 6-10" on either side for more support because last thing I'd want is to have this topple over on me.
 
Pulled out the old eu2000 to run an air compressor in a neighbours driveway on the weekend. Doh. It fires up easily but doesn't have 2000 watts right now and can't start the compressor. Needs choke to run. Tried injector cleaner with some progress but not enough. I guess the carb will have to come out for a cleaning.
 
Pulled out the old eu2000 to run an air compressor in a neighbours driveway on the weekend. Doh. It fires up easily but doesn't have 2000 watts right now and can't start the compressor. Needs choke to run. Tried injector cleaner with some progress but not enough. I guess the carb will have to come out for a cleaning.
I wish I had of thought of the generator this weekend when I was running my 110 welder and it kept kicking off the breaker

Sent from the future
 
Thanks! I was actually thinking that also looking at the link I sent...I'd probably add another 6-10" on either side for more support because last thing I'd want is to have this topple over on me.

Making one of these will likely cost you about $200 and it has limited functionality.

Once I decided to get a lift I checked Kijiji and Craigslist for a good used one and found the one I have after about 2 months. You have to check frequently as they usually go fast unless they are overpriced.

I got my 2 year old PA pneumatic / hydraulic 1,000 lb lift for $200, admittedly a great deal.
 
Attached is a picture of the home-built hydraulic lift that I made for my 1927 Levis 250cc 2 stroke lightweight.
The hydraulic lift is one of the usual 2 to 3 ton ones used for jacking a car to remove a wheel. The rest is wood and some bolts for pivots.
AFJ
Wow that’s fantastic! Thanks for sharing!

@ReSTored youre probably right. Hard to find these things and they go fast. Unfortunately due to my trailer tire issue and lack of hitch on the new car I can’t just up and go.

Soon as I get the tire issue resolved I’ll look harder. For now I’ll settle on a rear stand with the arms from PA. On sale for $70 so will grab it after work.
 
Is that a thing now? I worked as a TowJoe at Dagmar decades ago and there was hardly any training let alone being certified. I ran a triple chair along with T bars and rope tows (are they still in use??)
As teenagers that wanted to rev everything up we would throw the triple chair to full throttle prematurely and listen to the belts squeel "Hey look I'm burning rubber!"
Yes, at Hockley all returning operators go through a refresher on the operation of all lifts and practice manual evacuation of the chairlift. This is necessary because it is the lift operators responsibility to manually evacuate guests from a disabled chairlift. I believe it's a TSSA requirement, much like the working at heights that the supervisors must do, since they are the ones who must climb the towers to toss the evac ropes over the haul rope. In the 12 seasons I've worked there I have not had to manually evacuate anyone, because the back-up evacuation motor has been able to continue running the lift during a power outage. BTW, we have two chairlifts plus a handle tow and a magic carpet.

Oh, and the speed control for the chairlift is locked behind one of those tamper-proof cases so no one else can adjust the speed.:)
 
Last edited:
Oh, and the speed control for the chairlift is locked behind one of those tamper-proof cases so no one else can adjust the speed.:)
The chair we worked had a speed control. You had to start the chair slow to get it going before applying full power. We'd whack it open right from the start to listen the belts "burn rubber". Back then any evac would have been done by ski patrol.
 
I'll have to drill a hole in the sidecar when we get home. Sidecar rearview mirror from a Calgary Ural dealer.20231107_120258.jpg
 
About 2 years ago (or maybe 3?), stealership said my front brakes were shot, pads were at 2mm and dangerous and needed to be changed that day for iirc ~$2k. Surprised me that they would be that worn but I turned them down and ordered the parts. I intended to do the brakes during the next seasonal tire swap. They were fine as expected. I finally did them today, years later and they were still fine and well above wear limit. Thieves. I figured it made sense to have the upgraded brakes on the car instead of the shelf.

20231108-152709.jpg


Flushed the brakes as it was time. Need my wife to come home to do a final conventional bleed. Snows will go on after. May do my wife's snows tonight too.
 
About 2 years ago (or maybe 3?), stealership said my front brakes were shot, pads were at 2mm and dangerous and needed to be changed that day for iirc ~$2k.

I know that this is never going to happen but IMHO lying and misrepresenting that repairs are required when they are not, is fraud, and should be treated the same as someone stealing your wallet.

I had my fall oil / filter change at local Kia dealer. If you own a Kia you probably know all of Canada is designated as being subject to the "severe service" maintenance schedule, not the normal or routine one. This is a license to abuse customers and sell them services they don't need. If all of Canada is "severe" then there should be no such thing as a normal schedule in your owner's manual.

So this time my differential / transfer case was checked for proper oil level as recommended at 75k km. Normal service schedule says never change oil, severe schedule says change at 125k km. Dealer recommended changing it at 75k km for $300. Declined. Lots of similar examples of service recommended in advance of the contrived severe service schedule, but declined.
 
About 2 years ago (or maybe 3?), stealership said my front brakes were shot, pads were at 2mm and dangerous and needed to be changed that day for iirc ~$2k.

I know that this is never going to happen but IMHO lying and misrepresenting that repairs are required when they are not, is fraud, and should be treated the same as someone stealing your wallet.

I had my fall oil / filter change at local Kia dealer. If you own a Kia you probably know all of Canada is designated as being subject to the "severe service" maintenance schedule, not the normal or routine one. This is a license to abuse customers and sell them services they don't need. If all of Canada is "severe" then there should be no such thing as a normal schedule in your owner's manual.

So this time my differential / transfer case was checked for proper oil level as recommended at 75k km. Normal service schedule says never change oil, severe schedule says change at 125k km. Dealer recommended changing it at 75k km for $300. Declined. Lots of similar examples of service recommended in advance of the contrived severe service schedule, but declined.

After generations of screwing over customers, and a well deserved rotten reputation, the car biz carries on, having not learned a thing. They are their own worst enemy. And the latest practice of ramming extras down the throats of new car buyers is no less sleazy. No wonder so many folks are jaded?

Fcuk the dealers. I'll stick with used and do my own routine service.
 
Decided to take apart the donor table saw. Fairly smooth until I stripped the last 2 screws. Effing hell….how do I take them off?

F148154A-4E71-4432-A174-500E3B9CDDBF.jpeg

IMG_2154.jpeg

IMG_2156.jpeg

You can see the stripped screws here. The bottom SS one is holding the armature in…Fak…
IMG_2155.jpeg
 
Decided to take apart the donor table saw. Fairly smooth until I stripped the last 2 screws. Effing hell….how do I take them off?

View attachment 64243

View attachment 64244

View attachment 64245

You can see the stripped screws here. The bottom SS one is holding the armature in…Fak…
View attachment 64246
Do you have an old school impact driver? Looks like a fat screwdriver and you hit it with a hammer. Good for breaking free screws before you strip them.

Dremel with cutting disc makes a stripped screw into a slot head. Then see above. You also may be able to find another shape screwdriver that fits in your hole (Robertson or torx for instance).

Put a drift in or on the screw heads and give it a solid whack with a metal hammer. Shock can help convince things to let go.

Heat may help you but its hard to get Heat in the right place with this configuration.
 
Making one of these will likely cost you about $200 and it has limited functionality.

Once I decided to get a lift I checked Kijiji and Craigslist for a good used one and found the one I have after about 2 months. You have to check frequently as they usually go fast unless they are overpriced.

I got my 2 year old PA pneumatic / hydraulic 1,000 lb lift for $200, admittedly a great deal.
I think I paid $200 for mine as well.
Same thing. Needed to jump on it right away
 
Decided to take apart the donor table saw. Fairly smooth until I stripped the last 2 screws. Effing hell….how do I take them off?

View attachment 64243

View attachment 64244

View attachment 64245

You can see the stripped screws here. The bottom SS one is holding the armature in…Fak…
View attachment 64246
If you have a Dremel you can try to create a slot for a flat head screw driver and attempt that was.
Also you can try to slice the head of the screw off and pull the motor out.
 

Back
Top Bottom