What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 142 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

I put my tires under my deck, with a piece of plywood on top to keep off any snow that might get through the cracks. My garage is only 26 X 32 so I don't have floor space to waste.
26*32 is pretty good but I agree, space gets used up fast. I could put summer tires out under the tarp with lawn furniture in the winter but I don't have any good spot for snows other than in the garage. If I ever get around to building my storage garage, they may end up there. Sadly, that project isn't happening any time soon.
 
Not exactly my garage, but a friends. Spent a few days doing valve adjustment, synced throttle bodies, coolant change, new air filter, installed fuze block, rerouted wires for XT, installing running lights + switch, changed out incandescent turn signal bulbs for LED + new flasher relay, USB/voltage meter, new rear shock spring, reset sag.

Last thing to do before storing the bike for the season is new tires and clean up brake pads, pistons and pins and oil / filter change. Then nothing to do in the spring, just ride.

Got to say that the Tracer valve check / adjustment is much more complex and involved compared to my ST. Way more stuff to remove on a CP 3 cylinder engine vs. pulling valve covers on a V4 engine.

If you have a Yamaha 900 conventional wisdom is to check valves early vs. at 42,000 km. My Tracer is at 24,000 km and many of the valves were at the lower limit.
 
I put my tires under my deck, with a piece of plywood on top to keep off any snow that might get through the cracks. My garage is only 26 X 32 so I don't have floor space to waste.
At our old place we didn’t have space so would utilize the cottage basement as it was empty.

But with our new house we’re fortunate. All I need to do is actually organize the space available.
 
Obviously overfill but most push mowers will be between 0.5 and 1L to fill.

I have no idea about the newish no-oil-change Briggs where you just keep adding new oil and never remove any old oil. Seems like a very bad idea.
I don’t think that’s new, clever marketing maybe.

I’m guessing B&S figured out that an unmaintained engine will run well past the warranty period, and for average use 12 years.

Or maybe they just changed the factory oil to Rotella.
 
I don’t think that’s new, clever marketing maybe.

I’m guessing B&S figured out that an unmaintained engine will run well past the warranty period, and for average use 12 years.

Or maybe they just changed the factory oil to Rotella.
This is genius wording and true for all engines
For the life of the engine, all you need to do check the oil level...and add as needed. No messy draining process, no oil disposal. Just...Check and add.

Sent from the future
 
This is genius wording and true for all engines
For the life of the engine, all you need to do check the oil level...and add as needed. No messy draining process, no oil disposal. Just...Check and add.

Sent from the future
A lot like the mushrooms where a single mushroom is capable of feeding you for the rest of your life.
 
Pretty much finished up the brake side of my rearsets with the exception of real foot pegs as yet undetermined. PA didn't have small Heim joints so I bought these "ball joints" instead I think they will work fine.
The original brake lever pivoted about 4" behind the footpeg giving a 9" lever vs the 5" lever I have. My engineering skills are limited - can I gain any mechanical advantage by shortening either the driving or driven arm?? I can't see it but maybe.... ( I left the arms a little longer than I thought necessary, but I'm beginningto think they are fine as is.
 

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That is a simple dual lever. The fulcrum of the shift system is the heim joint on the pedal. The fulcrum of the pedal is the pivot. If the pedal was twice as long from the pivot to the heim joint, as the shift arm, you would have a positive leverage ratio of 2 to 1 (takes less effort to shift). Make the shift arm longer than the pedal arm and you have a negative ratio and it takes more effort to shift.
What is VITAL is you keep the heim joints at 90 degrees and the shift arm and the arm off the pedal have to be parallel, or you lose mechanical advantage
For MY eyes. that is all WAY TOO BIG.
Did you get one right thread and one left thread heim joint or did you do it wrong... and you need folding pegs for an Ontario certify
 
Back to ski tuning. It never ends. Got two pairs of my skiis ready. Kid got a new (to them) set of skis that needed some love, they are half way done. They are good slalom skis so I'm not sure the kid will be ready for them this year but if they are in the right mood, they will be a lot of fun. Most of the time the kid will use last years skis as they are a more relaxed geometry.

A kind person gave a kid a snowboard. It was ridden hard and put away wet. It is in much better shape now with most of the dirt and rust banished.

A board of a gtamer got a clean/sharpen/wax. The reputable shop that touched it last had done a half-assed job at scraping (and thats being generous). It's ready to go now.
 
I put the ST to bed for the season yesterday after a nice 132km ride. It was a tad cool, but not too bad. I am hoping for maybe another ride before the end of the month, but not holding my breath. In just over a week from now I have our recertification for returning lift operators and most of the time we are standing in snow while practicing lift evacuation. I did my ski tuning back in the summer after picking up a used set of skis for my grandson. Hoping to get him out this season.
 
Moved more stuff from mine to storage locations, move is soon upon us and we went from feel like it would take forever to, of crap we're running out of time... LOL
Motorcycle, lawnmower, water softener salt, 90% of garden tools, 80% of hand tools all moved and stored.
I left my small snowblower in garage (just in case), but maybe 1 more move for stuff and the garage will be empty.
 
This is genius wording and true for all engines
For the life of the engine, all you need to do check the oil level...and add as needed. No messy draining process, no oil disposal. Just...Check and add.

Sent from the future
For years our company leased cars for our salesmen who were responsible for maintenance. I’ll bet few of those cars ever saw an oil change… 3 years and 150k km was typical… we’d just turn them back to the leasing company in all their unmaintained glory.

I'm sure there was excessive wear, but I don't recall any of those cars being repaired or disabled from dirty lube.
 
That is a simple dual lever. The fulcrum of the shift system is the heim joint on the pedal. The fulcrum of the pedal is the pivot. If the pedal was twice as long from the pivot to the heim joint, as the shift arm, you would have a positive leverage ratio of 2 to 1 (takes less effort to shift). Make the shift arm longer than the pedal arm and you have a negative ratio and it takes more effort to shift.
What is VITAL is you keep the heim joints at 90 degrees and the shift arm and the arm off the pedal have to be parallel, or you lose mechanical advantage
For MY eyes. that is all WAY TOO BIG.
Did you get one right thread and one left thread heim joint or did you do it wrong... and you need folding pegs for an Ontario certify
The ball joints have a threaded stud. In this case they go thru the arm and are secured with a nut on the back. By way too big I assume you mean both arms are too long? I started with the arm intentionally long so they could be trimmed. I threw the wheel on and adjusted the brake linkage. It seems to work ok. I'll add a second hole to the shift arm and experiment once I can do some road testing.

As for the pegs, the black tube is just a temporary place holder if you will. I still can't decide if this thing is going see the street or just play on the drag strip on Sunday afternoons.
 
I put the ST to bed for the season yesterday after a nice 132km ride. It was a tad cool, but not too bad. I am hoping for maybe another ride before the end of the month, but not holding my breath. In just over a week from now I have our recertification for returning lift operators and most of the time we are standing in snow while practicing lift evacuation. I did my ski tuning back in the summer after picking up a used set of skis for my grandson. Hoping to get him out this season.
Is that a thing now? I worked as a TowJoe at Dagmar decades ago and there was hardly any training let alone being certified. I ran a triple chair along with T bars and rope tows (are they still in use??)
As teenagers that wanted to rev everything up we would throw the triple chair to full throttle prematurely and listen to the belts squeel "Hey look I'm burning rubber!"
 
Is that a thing now? I worked as a TowJoe at Dagmar decades ago and there was hardly any training let alone being certified. I ran a triple chair along with T bars and rope tows (are they still in use??)
As teenagers that wanted to rev everything up we would throw the triple chair to full throttle prematurely and listen to the belts squeel "Hey look I'm burning rubber!"
Very few alternate lift options in Ontario anymore. Almost all chairlifts for bigger hills and magic carpets for bunny hills. Annual certification and staffing killed off most rope tows/t bars as costs aren't low enough to justify the lower throughput.
 

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