Nope. No welder.
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
A 3 or 4 years ago, while my Tacoma was still under warranty I was paying for a service at the dealership when the young woman behind the counter cheerfully said, "And next visit, it's time to replace your front and rear rotors and service your brakes." This was around 120k when the warranty was running out.About 2 years ago (or maybe 3?), stealership said my front brakes were shot, pads were at 2mm and dangerous and needed to be changed that day for iirc ~$2k. Surprised me that they would be that worn but I turned them down and ordered the parts. I intended to do the brakes during the next seasonal tire swap. They were fine as expected. I finally did them today, years later and they were still fine and well above wear limit. Thieves. I figured it made sense to have the upgraded brakes on the car instead of the shelf.
Flushed the brakes as it was time. Need my wife to come home to do a final conventional bleed. Snows will go on after. May do my wife's snows tonight too.
I wasn't sure if I was going to continue getting the truck serviced at the dealer before that remark but afterwards I was sure I was going back to the local guy.
First, she was simply quoting the schedule as set out by Toyota, and knowing that dealership they would do that work without checking if the truck actually needed it. Second, the truck has rotors on the front and drums on the back. If you don't know that as company rep..you don't get my money.
The brakes lasted another 100,000k before needing replacement.
Anybody got a recommendation for a bolt/screw extractor set? Going to CT / HD this afternoon for a few other items...and may need something to take out these stripped screws on the saw.
They all suck (especially the CT ones). I would not use those for this application. I'd rather drill the heads off now than break an extractor off which prevents me from drilling the heads.
The bolt in post #2855?
An extractor isn't the right tool. Cut a slot in the head and use a manual impact driver.
I betcha I have removed more broken bolts than most of you combined, I have a drawer full of extractors of different styles... NEVER use them. An extractor is the last resort. I'll drill it out and install an insert before I use an extractor.
If you can't figure out a way to turn it out, drill it out.
No welder? Go talk to VanGro welding at Cawthra and Dundas, 726 Dundas E. Ed will weld a nut on there for $20 (less than the cost of an extractor)
An extractor isn't the right tool. Cut a slot in the head and use a manual impact driver.
I betcha I have removed more broken bolts than most of you combined, I have a drawer full of extractors of different styles... NEVER use them. An extractor is the last resort. I'll drill it out and install an insert before I use an extractor.
If you can't figure out a way to turn it out, drill it out.
No welder? Go talk to VanGro welding at Cawthra and Dundas, 726 Dundas E. Ed will weld a nut on there for $20 (less than the cost of an extractor)
Not sure Why these "extractors" were ever invented.
I don't think I have ever had one work as advertised.
Try to see if a Torx bit close to that size will fit in, then hit it hard with hammer to jam the bit in, then use a ratchet with the socket that fits the torx bit to take off. I did that this summer with a hex that got rounded. I learned it from this video
Bring it by when you pick up your tires we'll get the screws out
Sent from the future
This thing has loosened more stuck bolts than anything I know of
EVERY tool box should have one
EVERY tool box should have one
What is that?
Half success! Hammer, p3 and some muscle and it’s off!
Now…armature won’t come off…must be secured very well…
Now…armature won’t come off…must be secured very well…
I’ve got the same one. From Sears around 40 years ago.
Great success!!!
The thing i told you to use. When you hit it with a hammer you both provide impact energy which may loosen the screw, the hammer drives it in so it is less likely to slip out and it tries to do a small turn in one direction.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I always thought these were screw extractors. I’ve used them countless times when removing corroded and stripped bronze and stainless screws on boats.
They are almost useless on rusted bolts and studs.
Your odds of success are far higher on a screw into wood than with a metal on metal connection. I try to never use them with a metal/metal connection as when they break, my problem has gotten much worse.
I effectively did that when I took a PH2 bit on an extension. Hit it with a hammer a few times and it seated.
Then the screw just turned with minimal force.
Now to just make sure I don’t strip them on the other saw as that’s the good one!
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