The seal along the bottom panel slip into extruded channels. No screws.
The tension would not change, the cables would just be longer allowing the door to sit slightly lower. (I think/hope)
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
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The tension would not change, the cables would just be longer allowing the door to sit slightly lower. (I think/hope)
Got it. Last one I replaced I did the rubber strip and a C channel so I could control distance to floor.
If you back the pulleys off slightly, your door will sit lower. The (hopefully four but maybe two) setscrews in the spiral pulleys are holding back the entire spring. Be very careful. I have put a rod in a spring adjustment hole before and use the rod to hold the spring while I adjusted things. Be very careful and make sure to understand where the spring force is acting and what will move quickly if you accidentally unleash it. Dont get pinched. I found my way easier and safer than unwinding something like 17 wraps out of the spring and then putting them back in. 1/2" ratchet extensions work in a pinch but I normally use some stainless rods I have kicking around.
Don't ask me about almost killing myself unbolting a murphy bed fully tensioned........
Garage door springs and adjustments is something I leave for pros. Too many issues and horror stories.
Only thing I do on my own is the laser adjustment and programming.
Only thing I do on my own is the laser adjustment and programming.
Relax
Well-known member
Sounds like the door is so counterweighted that it's not heavy enough to compress the new seal? If you don't want to mess with the spring, you could try adjusting the lock height so it locks the door a little closer to the ground.
If anyone knows how to move the door cable further away from the door I'm all ears. Cable on one is too close and hits/rubs the sides of a few door panels when opening and makes an annoying racket.
I had a bracket break and release tension on one or two torsion springs. I replaced the bracket and used two 6" 3/8 extensions to rewind the spring so the door weight was neutral. Not fun.
A few years later a spring broke. After calling around I got a quote for replacing both springs and used below guy. After the springs were replaced he then started to check the rollers for lateral play in the bearings and I thought this is where I get screwed over with extra charges. But no, he replaced 3 of the rollers at no additional cost. He did a good job and the finished price what what he quoted over the phone. Get him to fix the issue for you, it may involve adjusting the springs, the cables or whatever.
danthemangaragedoors.com
The other thing is that a picture = 1,000 words. Post a few pictures of the seal, the door, the springs and you might get a simple and safe suggestion to fix this yourself.
A few years later a spring broke. After calling around I got a quote for replacing both springs and used below guy. After the springs were replaced he then started to check the rollers for lateral play in the bearings and I thought this is where I get screwed over with extra charges. But no, he replaced 3 of the rollers at no additional cost. He did a good job and the finished price what what he quoted over the phone. Get him to fix the issue for you, it may involve adjusting the springs, the cables or whatever.
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The other thing is that a picture = 1,000 words. Post a few pictures of the seal, the door, the springs and you might get a simple and safe suggestion to fix this yourself.
I tried that but the slot placement in the track doesn't allow for much adjustment. But yes I think it is over counter weighted and lengthening the cables would offset that.
It's probably the same program that TT is up against. Loosen the bolts and slide the pully out and then retighten. Those bolts are holding the spring tension. Think through the whole process before you touch a bolt.
Packed up the trailer for winter. One bolt got stuck and wouldn’t come out so nothing a cold chisel and a hammer couldn’t fix.
Great......now my neck hurts. Thanks.
Mixing? I wouldn't add different oil to top up but changing viscosity during an oil change is no issue. Most of it comes out so you aren't mixing much. Any idea why they went 10w40 last year?
Sorry, I meant changing the oil but thought there will be some tiny mix since I am not changing the filter (maintenance sheet says every 12k km, not even half close).
No idea. I also looked through FB group for my bike and couple of people were also suggested using Yamaha 10w40 instead of honda gn410w30.
GN4 10w30 is easier to get for me because I see it selling near me but yamaha 10w40... can't find much but maybe the place where i had the service have it (across Toronto).
Also I might have some left over gn4 from 2 years ago because I bought 2x1L.
No idea. I also looked through FB group for my bike and couple of people were also suggested using Yamaha 10w40 instead of honda gn410w30.
GN4 10w30 is easier to get for me because I see it selling near me but yamaha 10w40... can't find much but maybe the place where i had the service have it (across Toronto).
Also I might have some left over gn4 from 2 years ago because I bought 2x1L.
Personally, I replace the filter every time. If you are worried about residual oil but don't want to spring for a new filter, remove the filter and drain oil and reinstall. As far as mixing brand x 10w40 with yamaha 10w40, I would have no concerns at all.
How many km do you do a season? If only 2,000 km a year would you only change every 6 years?
Regardless of mileage I'd be changing it out with the fall oil change. Cheap insurance.
My manual states regardless of milage oil should be changed annually. I wouldn't leave used oil in my engine during storage,but that's just me.
With my ST I changed oil (Rotella T4) last thing in the fall and mid season or about August 1. Used to change filter every oil change, but IMO not required based on my mileage between changes, so did it every fall.
On the Tracer manual says change filter every second oil change, so I do in the fall. Have enough T4 for one more change, then switching to Motul 5100 semi synthetic for 2023.
I really wouldn't want to leave old oil in the crankcase over the winter. I'd be concerned, maybe needlessly, about corrosion and other evils affecting my bike and in the grand scheme of things oil is dirt cheap.
I also changed the oil on the VStrom. Went with Rotella T6.
My AliExpress order came very quick. So this is what I will be doing in the garage in the future.
I placed the order on Oct 13. One order for multiple items from different sellers. Delivery day varied from first week of November to late November.
I was pleasantly surprised when it all showed up today.
Radiator guard along with some switches I plan to wire in for Aux lights as well as garage door opener. They are not all going on. Bought some extras for future projects/spares.
My AliExpress order came very quick. So this is what I will be doing in the garage in the future.
I placed the order on Oct 13. One order for multiple items from different sellers. Delivery day varied from first week of November to late November.
I was pleasantly surprised when it all showed up today.
Radiator guard along with some switches I plan to wire in for Aux lights as well as garage door opener. They are not all going on. Bought some extras for future projects/spares.
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