What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 88 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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48Connor said:
Making my own G10 knife scales (handles) on my CNC router has been a near 8 month process on and off so far, but I've finally got a set finished for an Ontario Rat 1.

(Also I the lighting in the photos is different and makes it look like two different knifes...)
BonrT9i.jpg


yHaNbJn.jpg
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Looks good. I dont think I will ever understand jeep people.
 
48Connor said:
Making my own G10 knife scales (handles) on my CNC router has been a near 8 month process on and off so far, but I've finally got a set finished for an Ontario Rat 1.

(Also I the lighting in the photos is different and makes it look like two different knifes...)
BonrT9i.jpg


yHaNbJn.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice work! I like it!
 
Spent 4 hours clearing out the garage. Stuff that hasn’t been used in years especially so that’s helpful. Making space, cleaning up the previously attacked stuff by mice, organizing (as much as I can).

And took the battery out of the bike and placed it on the trickle charger. I have a feeling I’m done for the season. But if nice weather comes, a quick 5 min reinstall and I’m good to roll.
 
mimico_polak said:
And took the battery out of the bike and placed it on the trickle charger. I have a feeling I’m done for the season. But if nice weather comes, a quick 5 min reinstall and I’m good to roll.
Click to expand...

Since I got the DRZ I installed a quick connect on the battery and another on the Noco trickle charger I have. The bike sits 99% of the time hooked up to the trickle charger year round because of how easy it is to connect. You would want the waterproof cover for them also if you were going to do it - my connector sits tucked up above the rear wheel, super easy to get to, never had a problem.

I actually just bought all the stuff to do this for the Seadoo also. Pulling the battery in that thing it a pain, so when I split the body this fall to install the depth finder I'm going to install a quick connect like the ones below.


61VYVUY3tZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
48Connor said:
Since I got the DRZ I installed a quick connect on the battery and another on the Noco trickle charger I have. The bike sits 99% of the time hooked up to the trickle charger year round because of how easy it is to connect. You would want the waterproof cover for them also if you were going to do it - my connector sits tucked up above the rear wheel, super easy to get to, never had a problem.

I actually just bought all the stuff to do this for the Seadoo also. Pulling the battery in that thing it a pain, so when I split the body this fall to install the depth finder I'm going to install a quick connect like the ones below.


61VYVUY3tZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Click to expand...
I actually have something similar. But the way the shelving is situated, and the bike faces, it’s a pain to connect it all and barely makes the length.

This is super easy also, but for now it’s gotta do.
 
Hoped to work on my old CBR but ended up mostly struggling with an outboard motor on our little fishing boat. Ran maybe two months ago, with stabilizer in tank. This time I ran through multiple cycles of it starting for maybe twenty seconds, then dying out, maybe burning one more time after a few tries and then refusing to do anything for a few hours. Replaced plugs, drained and replaced fuel (last bits of old fuel from external tank were milky) and checked fuel filter. Confirmed I have spark, fuel, and I believe symptoms indicate kill switch is not the problem. I wish I had put some Seafoam in the fuel when I replaced the fuel.

Never worked on outboards and see the form factor being a real annoyance. It’s tall enough I think I can only really work on it from inside the boat,

Was able to pull the rear shock from my 87 CBR600 in hopes of checking its condition. I need to learn to quit going deeper into this project bike because every time I do, I find something new, LOL. This time my Thanksgiving surprise is a half disintegrated rubber part on the gas shock , maybe a dust seal, and a funny shaped wire on the interior of the rear brake pedal that was soft and broke in half as soon as I looked at it. Haven’t been able to figure out what that beauty is yet.
 
Brakes and more brakes. Did the daughter's Jetta and the winter beater Jeep. Both are pads front shoes on back -- did rear wheel cylinders too on the Jetta (why would anyone make a cylinder out of Aluminum -- the galvanic corrosion ate away part of the cylinder, it was wobbling at 120,000km.

This weekend will be sorting out the mysterious ABS lights that are now lit on both cars. Strange as I didn't go anywhere near the ABS sensors -- just cleaned things up with brake cleaner and air.
 
Got me a garage door opener velcroed and tied to the bike.
ahItjGnl.jpg
 
If I'm in the garage, I'm either fixing stuff that broke from the last trip or installing stuff for the next one.

Neda's bike was leaking a ton of oil from our Washington BDR ride. We tore into it and found that it was leaking from the countershaft seal. A common issue.

IMG_0486-X2.jpg

Got the area all cleaned and prepped for surgery

Common enough problem that KTM has a countershaft seal repair kit, which I bought. Also bought a boatload of tools that I didn't have.

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Fished out the O-ring with a pick (new), pulled out the seal with a seal puller (also new)

The KTM kit contained replacement O-rings, seals as well as a washer that acts as a spring to push the sprocket against the seal. This spring washer is too thin and flexible and when it deforms, relieves the pressure from the sprocket to the seal, allowing oil to seep through.

There's a company called Dirt Tricks which makes a replacement dome washer that's thicker and made of steel and acts as a better spring. Plus it comes in cool colours!

IMG_0497-X2.jpg

Gently tap the new seal evenly in. Sprocket back on. And then on goes the Dirt Tricks dome washer

Filled the engine with oil and took it for a test ride. Leak seems to be fixed. Yay!

Next up:

IMG_20220907_171319-X2.jpg


We've settled on our favorite rear tires. Neda's got the MotoZ Tractionator Enduro I/Ts and I like the Dunlop D606s.

We tend to ride long distances and we've experienced severe range anxiety with our 8.5L tanks. On our WABDR ride, I ran the tank empty at 170 kms. No bueno.

I ordered the larger Acerbis tanks for both our enduros at the beginning of the season. Only Neda's has come in, which is better than nothing. I'll just bring a siphon hose and she'll have to be the Exxon Valdez for our upcoming trip.

IMG_20220907_172516-X2.jpg

New tank is 15L which is almost double the original. Sweet!

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Prepped for minor surgery once again

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Pulled the old fuel pump out of the original tank and put it in the new one

I didn't read the instructions properly and stripped the threads on one of the bolts that holds the fuel pump to the tank.

FORK!

When I filled up the tank, gas leaked everywhere. Tried taking the fuel pump off and but it wouldn't unscrew. *sigh* I went to the shop and they told me I had to order a new fuel pump.

$$$$$ Ouch.

Since we're leaving soon for our trip, they pulled a unit off one of the floor models. Good guys. I went home and installed the tank.

IMG_20220915_142759-X2.jpg


LOL. The Acerbis tank is much wider and doesn't come with extension brackets to screw the side plastics back on. Most guys just leave the panels off but if you want the original plastics on, they recommended using O-rings and stretching them over the bolts on the rad.

So ghetto-looking. But the plastics are just aesthetics anyway...

aaaaand we're all set for our next trip!
 
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Lightcycle said:
IMG_20220907_173855-X2.jpg

Pulled the old fuel pump out of the original tank and put it in the new one

I didn't read the instructions properly and stripped the threads on one of the bolts that holds the fuel pump to the tank.

FORK!

When I filled up the tank, gas leaked everywhere. Tried taking the fuel pump off and but it wouldn't unscrew. *sigh* I went to the shop and they told me I had to order a new fuel pump.

$$$$$ Ouch.
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If you stripped a bolt that threads into the bottom of the tank, why would you need a new pump, and not a new tank? Even then, couldn't they drill it out?
 
Relax said:
If you stripped a bolt that threads into the bottom of the tank, why would you need a new pump, and not a new tank? Even then, couldn't they drill it out?
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The bolt is integrated into the bottom of the fuel pump. It's actually part of the fuel pump. Stupid design. I reefed hard on it and destroyed it, not realizing that there was a thick washer in the Acerbis kit that fit over the bolt that spaced it out so I didn't have to torque it that hard.

I have the old fuel pump. They had to drill out the fuel pump to remove it from the tank. We were in a time crunch, so it was faster to grab a fuel pump from one of the floor models than try to get parts and try to fix the old one.
 
Any garage door gurus?
I installed a new seal at the bottom of my door. There's a slight crown in my floor and now I see daylight at either side. My new seal is not being compressed.
I need the door to sit a little lower so the weight of the door compresses the seal in the middle and then at least touches down at the sides.
I think I need to loosen off the spring tension/cable tension and then turn each pully a bit to lengthen the cable at each. Does that make sense? Or just make my door harder to lift?
And yes I know garage springs are dangerous and caution must be taken.
 
timtune said:
Any garage door gurus?
I installed a new seal at the bottom of my door. There's a slight crown in my floor and now I see daylight at either side. My new seal is not being compressed.
I need the door to sit a little lower so the weight of the door compresses the seal in the middle and then at least touches down at the sides.
I think I need to loosen off the spring tension/cable tension and then turn each pully a bit to lengthen the cable at each. Does that make sense? Or just make my door harder to lift?
And yes I know garage springs are dangerous and caution must be taken.
Click to expand...
Garage door opener? If yes, you can adjust down position/pressure. You can install the seal with some bow in it to match the floor. What is holding door down if no opener? Slide locks?

How is door balance? If you stop it half way up, does it rise/fall or stay in place? I am assuming multipiece door not a one piece?
 
GreyGhost said:
Garage door opener? If yes, you can adjust down position/pressure. You can install the seal with some bow in it to match the floor. What is holding door down if no opener? Slide locks?

How is door balance? If you stop it half way up, does it rise/fall or stay in place? I am assuming multipiece door not a one piece?
Click to expand...
No opener. Just a slide lock. It's only an 8ft door (multi panel). Balance is pretty good it will stay in place for the most part.
 
timtune said:
No opener. Just a slide lock. It's only an 8ft door (multi panel). Balance is pretty good it will stay in place for the most part.
Click to expand...
I would not be adjusting spring tension. Last seal I put on, I closed the door, stepped on the seal to push it tight to the floor and then drove in a screw. Started at the low point in the floor and high points last.
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