Great work.
We now have two guys to call on in case we are in the same predicament.
Good to have multiple options.
We now have two guys to call on in case we are in the same predicament.
Good to have multiple options.
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Your logic is flawed.
You want to talk to folks that don't break bolts in the first place... if someone is flexing on how good they are at fixing "screw ups"... you have to ask: Why are they seeing so many screw ups.
I have probably removed more broken bolts than everyone else on this site combined, but I'll NEVER brag about it... i don't like to talk about it... SORRY breaking bolts is a cardinal sin... even stuck/seized ones
Best option: DON'T BREAK THE BOLT.
Relax
Well-known member
I was going to reply saying please don't call me, because I'd rather have not been in the situation to begin with. I don't have the same track record as you, but I've only ever had to drill out one other bolt before, and that was about 30 years ago. Also why I never had reverse drill bits until now.
Sometimes **** happens when you least expect it. I probably spent an hour removing just one of my Subaru's front ball joint pinch bolts to avoid this situation, but I knew that was a high risk operation so I was applying tons of heat and going extremely slow. This KTM steel bolt is only 5mm and threaded into aluminum, securing an o-ring sealed cap with a torque spec of only 4 lb/ft - not much more than finger tight. It figures that the last oil change was done at a KTM dealership - the tech must have torqued them on "real good". Even after cracking the second one loose, it didn't want to come out without the ratchet, so something wasn't right when it was last assembled. I now have the bolts threading into both holes smoothly by hand after cleaning out the threads.
The first time I took the carb manifolds off my Norton Commando to change the gaskets I found one of the 2 inside bolts had been broken off. It was way too tight to get the drill in, even the one I bought at Princess Auto with the short drive assembly.
Fortunately, there was enough bolt sticking above the threads that I was able to CAREFULLY grind a slot with my dremel tool and VERY CAREFULLY turn it out with a short flat head screw driver.
I was so pleased with myself that I kept the removed piece and hung it above my bench as a reminder.
"Cleaning out the threads"?
I hope you aren't using a tap. There is a tool for damaged threads.
Small bolts get a touch of blue loctite and never a torque wrench. Hold onto the end of the ratchet and socket with two fingers and thumb.
Relax
Well-known member
I only use a tap to cut new threads. I've been meaning to get a proper thread chaser kit, but have been doing fine using regular bolts to go over the threads.
For people wanting to step up their bolt removal game, Amazon has edm's now. Wtf.
Relax
Well-known member
Great. Now I want to break the heads off all my bolts.
Who's the resident edm expert? @FullMotoJacket ? I'm sure he'll have very positive things to say about amateurs using Amazon edms. /s
Does a homegamer have a chance of a successful outcome with this?
It looks like a cross between an EDM hole popper and a VERY rudimentary sink EDM. I'm a wire EDM guy, but I have jumped in and worked on sinks in a pinch (I hate them, and want nothing to do with them. Even on weekends you smell of burnt coolant). From what I see in the rainbows and cute puppies translated from Chinese ad copy, it will work. The questions are how well and for how long. I know it will be super messy and go through coolant at a steep rate. I'd look for reviews other than the bot crap on Amazon.
afici0nad0
Well-known member
- changed engine oil, primary chain gear oil, spark plugs on the HD 48
- changed engine oil and spark plugs on my lawn mower
- changed engine oil and spark plugs on my lawn mower
Don't call me! Remember I BROKE the bolt...so I had to FIX the bolt...
I still think it was the previous guy that stretched / broke it...but it sure as hell wasn't me...I just pushed it over the edge.
I already had lined up a visit to @bitzz with the piece and had a price for buying it from one of the shops mentioned here as well near St Thomas or thereabouts...but thankfully I was able to salvage my screw up.
I should have added some laughing emoji's so indicate I was making a joke.
Thankfully I have not had too much experience or need removing bolts. I don't think that its always the operators fault or at least the current owners fault.
Relax
Well-known member
I don't think you can be blamed for the head shearing off when someone else overtightened, stretched, and weakened it.
He has now learned the valuable lesson of visually inspecting bolts before installing.
I'm in the middle of fixing worn-out stuff. I wore out the clutch release shaft on my ZX10R (which has 140 000 km). The shaft has a hinged piece which the cable pulls, which pivots on a rivet, and that rivet wore out so that the clutch release went sloppy and inconsistent.
I showed this to a local retired machinist ... "I can fix that" ... took it off the bike yesterday and gave it to him, got it back today. He drilled out the ovalled-out hole to make it round again, machined a new rivet, and made it fit and work properly. I'll put it back in the bike tomorrow. I still have a new replacement on order from Kawasaki, but it's back-ordered and will take a month to get.
Next on the list of worn-out stuff that needs fixing, hopefully just cleaning and re-lubricating, is the rear suspension on my street FZR400, but I may hold off doing that until winter.
I showed this to a local retired machinist ... "I can fix that" ... took it off the bike yesterday and gave it to him, got it back today. He drilled out the ovalled-out hole to make it round again, machined a new rivet, and made it fit and work properly. I'll put it back in the bike tomorrow. I still have a new replacement on order from Kawasaki, but it's back-ordered and will take a month to get.
Next on the list of worn-out stuff that needs fixing, hopefully just cleaning and re-lubricating, is the rear suspension on my street FZR400, but I may hold off doing that until winter.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Chapter 2 of the chain failure. Buttoned everything, started her up and oil started pouring out around the drive sprocket. Pulled it apart again and saw the shift rod engine seal was out.
Pulled the sprocket and retaining plate, inspected the seal, reseated it and all is good.
The damaged rod was badly bent, but not broken. One end looked like a Phillips screwdriver. Looks like this repair was done before by making a pushrod from an old screwdriver.
Pulled the sprocket and retaining plate, inspected the seal, reseated it and all is good.
The damaged rod was badly bent, but not broken. One end looked like a Phillips screwdriver. Looks like this repair was done before by making a pushrod from an old screwdriver.
My modest recent garage victory:
To remedy the poor running (fuel starvation) issue on my Husky 250 I needed to change 2 fuel filters; one a small in-line one about as big as a pencil tip and another one inside the fuel tank.
Getting the fuel pump assembly out was simple. Unbolt the petcock and the attaching bold next to it and unscrew the plate from the back of the tank and work it out.
Immediately I thought that it was going to be a PITA to get it back into place down the side of the tank.
Fortunately I managed to engage my brain before struggling. I wound some very fine wire around the threads of the petcock tying a secure but loose knot, feeding the wire through the hole and out the back of the tank beforehand.
AND IT WORKED!!! First try.
I set the cover plate back in place making sure the gasket was seated properly and carefully snugged it up.
I had the entire job done from the first bolt of the side cover to a successful test ride in under an hour with no leaks.
Problem solved. Throttle response is crisp and immediate and it runs better than when I got it.
To remedy the poor running (fuel starvation) issue on my Husky 250 I needed to change 2 fuel filters; one a small in-line one about as big as a pencil tip and another one inside the fuel tank.
Getting the fuel pump assembly out was simple. Unbolt the petcock and the attaching bold next to it and unscrew the plate from the back of the tank and work it out.
Immediately I thought that it was going to be a PITA to get it back into place down the side of the tank.
Fortunately I managed to engage my brain before struggling. I wound some very fine wire around the threads of the petcock tying a secure but loose knot, feeding the wire through the hole and out the back of the tank beforehand.
AND IT WORKED!!! First try.
I set the cover plate back in place making sure the gasket was seated properly and carefully snugged it up.
I had the entire job done from the first bolt of the side cover to a successful test ride in under an hour with no leaks.
Problem solved. Throttle response is crisp and immediate and it runs better than when I got it.
Relax
Well-known member
I figured out the problem. When reinstalling the cover with a new factory o-ring, I initially just pressed it into place and noticed the holes weren't perfectly aligned and the bolts wouldn't thread in smoothly. If I aligned one enough to get the bolt in clean, the other was even more off and the bolt wouldn't go in at all unless I pushed the cover over to the side to compress the o-ring, which was difficult. The dealer tech must have just driven them in and called it good. So instead, I inserted both bolts through the cover first, then in to the case, and was able to finger tighten them almost all the way, only needing the ratchet to draw in the o-ring and for the final torque.
I swapped out my brake and clutch leave to some shorty versions. Just because.
Forgot to take the "after" picture of the clutch side so not posting the before either.
I ended up getting them from AVDB MOTO L'ACCESSOIRE À PRIX MOTARD (out of France) as I read some decent reviews and they were very cost effective in comparison to some other brands. They look very much identical so some of the really expensive CRG/Vortex /ASV etc.
Total cost for the set $94 CAD pesos. I had family visiting Europe so they brought them back for me. No additional shipping or customs.
After the first test right, I might need to bring the clutch side closer to the end of the bar as I seem to be grabbing a bit of the ball end of the lever. Other than that they seem to be good for my proposes.
Forgot to take the "after" picture of the clutch side so not posting the before either.
I ended up getting them from AVDB MOTO L'ACCESSOIRE À PRIX MOTARD (out of France) as I read some decent reviews and they were very cost effective in comparison to some other brands. They look very much identical so some of the really expensive CRG/Vortex /ASV etc.
Total cost for the set $94 CAD pesos. I had family visiting Europe so they brought them back for me. No additional shipping or customs.
After the first test right, I might need to bring the clutch side closer to the end of the bar as I seem to be grabbing a bit of the ball end of the lever. Other than that they seem to be good for my proposes.
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