They were in such a rush to sell him a bike that they didn't even put down the right bike on the bill of sale :lmao:
Did they bait and switch it for a 250cc ??? Lol.
They were in such a rush to sell him a bike that they didn't even put down the right bike on the bill of sale :lmao:
And he signed it anyway...They were in such a rush to sell him a bike that they didn't even put down the right bike on the bill of sale :lmao:
Anyway, technically couldn't I get OMVIC involved? They misrepresented my contract in my eyes.
Well after a somewhat heated conversation with the salesman, I know I can cancel for sure but the refund would not happen, which he mentioned.
He mentioned using it on another bike and I asked why not just let me use it for in-store credit?
He said it's "company policy" this guy loves this phrase.
Anyway, technically couldn't I get OMVIC involved?
They misrepresented my contract in my eyes.
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Please elaborate on how they "misrepresented the contract in my eyes".
I felt you were on the right track earlier in this thread when you said "I have learned my lesson and $500 is basically a fee ofr that lesson". You started this thread by asking how you could negotiate a lower price on the bike you had put the deposit down on.
To me this indicated that you were.
1. happy with the bike you had ordered;
2. you were hoping to reopen a deal that had already been agreed upon, (signed the contract).
When the dealership wasn't open to reducing the price and you got the advice, (which in it's basis is solid), on this forum, that the financing and insurance represented a significant investment per month for the next 5 years or so. You then realized that the deal you had made in haste wasn't a "good deal" after all.
So had the advice been that the a "deal is a deal" but you made a good purchase" would you then have simply completed the deal as agreed to or would you have still tried to back out?
Regardless of the answer. you got the advice you got and seeing it as a bad deal you are now expecting the dealership to refund you a deposit, which you gave them in good faith, and for which they in good faith used to order the bike you had agreed to purchase.
Would they be smart after all this to give you your money back?? IMHO had you not named the dealership then sure give you something back, but not all $500. But now that they have been named and they have been, again IMHO unfairly targeted in this thread, I agree with their position let you "out of the contract", but keep the deposit.
People keep saying that the dealership has incurred no cost. They have they had to order the bike, (this requires processing time), the manufacturer charges the dealer for ordering a bike, (otherwise dealers would carry every model in every color etc). The salesman took time with you, he is likely on commission but also on a base salary, (so his time is costed in). Also let's say they bow to the "peer pressure" created in this thread then what do they do next time??? If someone else puts down a deposit and then gets "cold feet" and reads this thread then they too will start a thread to "force the dealerships hand"
Do I think you would have made a bad decision in going forward with this deal?? Absolutely, but it was you who made the deal, it was then you who realized after some sage advice not to go forward. I think you should be happy that the dealership is permitting you to back out without any further penalty. When we were all younger we made impulse buys, so I don't fault in the least for that. I did it and like you I learned my lesson, and lost a deposit, but I am much wiser and a better informed consumer because of it. I am the one who tells a salesman on bigger ticket items. (like my current bike and my current car), that I am going to read the entire contract, BEFORE I sign it and if they would like I can take a blank contract home to review it rather than waste 2 hours of their time.
But i am older and also have dealt with the same bike dealership now through 4 sales contracts so I know our "history" together and that we will "work out' any issues that may arise.
I think it is a mistake to think if this thread gets 1,000, 10,000 or 100,000 views the dealership is going to budge on this, nor do I think they are obligated to. The sales man gave you a contract you "could" have taken the time to get all the details straight. I am sure he didn't say we close at 5 pm and it is 4:55pm so hurry sign it NOW..lol. As the old adage goes... "the devil is in the details"... In this case those details have bitten you in the arse. It doesn't feel good but in the end if you buy a used bike over the financing of this bike you will save MORE than the $500.
Just for full disclosure I am not affiliated with nor have I ever had any business dealings or relationship with Kahuna. I just feel they have followed the contract, (which IS black and white), otherwise why even bother having a contract.
To those wondering how I think they misrepresented my contract; wrong colour, wrong model listed. It's entirely a different bike.
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To those wondering how I think they misrepresented my contract; wrong colour, wrong model listed. It's entirely a different bike.
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So much ambiguity. I hate contracts.
I thought OMVIC favors the customer?
. Required disclosures
1. The make, model, trim level and model year of the vehicle. 2. If the vehicle has been used as a taxi, limousine, police or emergency vehicle. 3. If the vehicle has been leased (rented) on a daily basis and has not been subsequently owned by someone other than a dealer. 4. If any collision or incident damage to the vehicle was greater than $3,000 (and the total cost of repair if known by the dealer). 5. If the vehicle has been classified under the Highway Traffic Act as irreparable, salvage or rebuilt, or was declared a total loss by an insurer. 6. If the vehicle has two or more adjacent panels that are not bumper panels that have been replaced. 7. If the manufacturer’s warranty on the vehicle has been cancelled. 8. If the vehicle has sustained any damage caused by fire. 9. If the vehicle has sustained any damage caused by immersion in liquid that has penetrated to the level of at least the interior floor boards. 10. If there has been structural damage or if the vehicle has had repairs, replacements or alterations to the structure of the vehicle. 11. If the vehicle has an anti-lock braking system that is not operational. 12. If any of the vehicle’s airbags are missing or not operational. 13. If the vehicle requires repair to any of the following: a. Engine, transmission or power train. b. Subframe or suspension. c. Computer equipment. d. Electrical system. e. Fuel operation system. f. Air conditioning. 14. If the contract is for the sale or lease of a specifically identified new motor vehicle (e.g., VIN is known, in stock, etc.), the maximum distance that will be shown on the odometer at time of delivery. 15. If the contract does not specifically identify a new vehicle (e.g., a vehicle which must be located, VIN unknown), the maximum distance that will be shown on the odometer at the time of delivery or a statement initialed by the buyer that there is no maximum. 16. If the contract is for the sale or lease of a used vehicle: a. The total distance driven. b. If the dealer cannot determine the total distance the vehicle has been driven, but can determine a distance the vehicle has been driven as of some past date, that distance and date, together with a statement that “the total distance the vehicle has been driven is believed to be higher.” c. If the dealer is unable to make any type of determination as to total distance driven or as to distance driven from a past date, that “the total distance driven is unknown and may be substantially higher than the reading shown on the odometer.” 17. If the vehicle’s odometer is broken or faulty, has been replaced or rolled back, or is in miles. 18. If the vehicle is materially different from its original or advertised production specifications. 19. If the badge or any other indication on the vehicle relates to a different vehicle model. 20. If the vehicle was previously registered in a jurisdiction other than Ontario, and if so, a statement indicating which jurisdictions. This requirement does not apply if the vehicle has since been registered in Ontario for more than seven years. 21. If the vehicle was recovered subsequent to being reported stolen. 22. A statement of any other facts that could be expected to influence the decision of a reasonable buyer or lessee to purchase or lease the vehicle on the terms disclosed in the contract.
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All very valid points.
However, I would like to state that I am not pursuing a refund as my ultimatum, just trying to exhaust all possible outcomes before I cancel the contract.
As I've said. I've already lost $500 so I have nothing to lose.
To those wondering how I think they misrepresented my contract; wrong colour, wrong model listed. It's entirely a different bike.
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Hi all,
I recently decided to buy a brand new 2014 Kawasaki ER6N with ABS.
My age is 22 and my insurance was quoted at $289. With the bike, it's roughly $165 on top of that.
I would like to knock down the price of the bike if possible. The dealer I went to is taking off $300 only and the remaining price is about 10k. He says that it's not possible to really knock anymore down since it's on Kawasaki's special offer and "they're not supposed to give discounts" on the 4.9%.
That being said. Are there any tips you guys could give me to further the price? I'm going in on Monday to see if I can knock down the monthly payments some more.
I had the thought at the back of my mind that itd be too current for a discount... Dang haha! I guess I'll push for accessories or gear
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I'm not too good at making sure a bike is in pristine or good enough condition. I'm planning on keeping this bike for a long, long time so I figured buying it new would be a better bet. Less hassles as it is under warranty and what not.
I'm very keen on the ER6N and the financing plan gives me leeway with the cost I'd be nailing down in one go on a used.
We all know people can be silver tongued and say this and that to push a sale, and on a car that's okay, but a bike is a double edged sword and I'm not willing to take the risk.
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Wow did not expect this to blow up..
I most indefinitely did jump the gun on this and regret I did not ask for help first.
I was not thinking about more important priorities to invest in and this thread really threw the hammer in my face
I unfortunately put down $500 already on a contract and the dealer is refusing to give it back for obvious reasons.
Is there a way to get the $500 to spin my way so I don't lose it?
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I think I'm going to take the loss on the $500.
There's a number on the back that says I can call if I do not agree and am not happy with the conclusion in regards to my contract so I think I will try to go that path.
I will be checking out one of the bikes that was linked in this thread within the next few weeks and was wondering if someone could lend a hand to me.
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Have you considered blackmail or kidnapping his child for ransom?
Hopefully you find yourself a good bike and can put all this in the past, Im in Richmond Hill as well so if you ever wanna go riding hit me up.