Hear that.
My old trailer blew a bearing, and i didnt even feel it. I kept driving till i turned a corner and notice one wheel was completely black with grease and metal.
I had to limp it to Barrie, and leave it there for repairs.
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Shopping list for 2013 track season
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
Hear that.
My old trailer blew a bearing, and i didnt even feel it. I kept driving till i turned a corner and notice one wheel was completely black with grease and metal.
I had to limp it to Barrie, and leave it there for repairs.
I'm gonna answer my own question for the benefit of anyone who might ever decide to do this.
Most semi-floating rotors have washers on the inside side (towards the inside of the bike) of the rivets that connect the carrier to the rotor. Regardless of bike model, rotors model, etc.., removing those washers will free-up just enough space to allow some lateral movement of the rotor on the carrier. The actual removal of the washers is supposed to be a pretty easy task---a chisel or a sharp flat headed screwdriver will do the job. Apparently, this way the rivets are not weakened at all to compromise safety (as opposed to pushing/extending the rivet in a vise, which is an alternative free method).
I've read a lot of opinions and experiences by other people, including racers, who are much delighted with the results. The only drawback seems to be the clunking noise from the rotors at low speed, which many people describe as the sound as if your bike is going to fall apart, hence drawing negative and suspicious attention. Obviously, this effect is not desirable for the street with the many bumps on the roads and Timmie bike posers around, but perfectly fine for the track IMHO.
Cheers
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I must not be fast enough. I'm totally fine with my OEM "semi-floating" rotors.
Mr.Azim
Well-known member
diddo.
alkaline nine
Well-known member
Like Infernobuster stated, replace the bearings if you buy that trailer of kijjii. I have the identical trailer, bearings piled up after two summers with minimal miles on it. Better safe than sorry.
The only time I've ever seen a warped or damaged OEM rotor was after a nasty crash.
If OEM semi-floaters were indeed so good, I wonder why people would be spending $600+ for full floating Brembo rotors a piece... converting OEM to full-floating won't make it a Brembo, but will at least head in the positive direction for free.
It's $600/set.
im not buying it, posting it only .
I wonder too. The fully floating part is likely not the only reason though. As for pad drag (the apples to oranges video you posted earlier), that's a definite benefit, but I'd be extremely surprised to going from semi to full floating, with no other changes, will make your wheel spin 100% free like his. I'll be removing my anti squeal clips from my pads before this season to decrease pad drag. I'd imagine that him wiggling is rotors before spinning the wheel would have widened the pads slightly, helping his demonstration. Call me a skeptic, but there has to be something else going on there to decrease the drag that much. A friend of mine had an ex-CSBK Pro 600 bike with fully floating rotors and the front wheel didn't spin as easy as in that video.
It's still a lot.
BTW, seems like all aftermarket performance rotors are full/free floating, so it can't be bad.
I don't know, these people here and here all reported that converting the rotors made their wheels spin free. I've also read a few other forum threads on other sites saying the same. Currently, giving a good tug on my front gets me at about 1 to 1 1/2 revolutions (mind you my calipers are very much due for cleaning). I'll make a video before/after soon when I get to do this, but I anticipate success.
Shaman
Well-known member
At the very least, if you don't have them, look into Racetech or Ohlins valving for your forks. They really take the harshness out of most common stock forks. It's a big deal for Kayaba-forked GSX-Rs, I can tell you. I have Racetech valving in the forks of both my 2005/6, RaceTech cartridges in my 2008 and Ohlins cartridges in my 600. Honestly I think they're all comparable, maybe I am just not sensitive enough to tell how much better full cartridges are than the valving... 
I would love to see that. If you do a before and after make sure you only change one thing, the rotors. Please leave the rest as apples to apples. Either clean your calipers before or after the before/after video session.
Removing the front wheel and bringing it inside, where I'll remove and do the rotors, is the only thing I'll subject myself to in my cold garage. Calipers clean and everything else will be in the spring, so the video will reflect the effect of removing the washers from the rotors and nothing more.
corsara What happened to you dude? 6-8 months ago you were a regular street rider like most of us,you then think that you are riding too dangerously and reckless for the streets so you do one trackday and become hooked. If and WHEN you crash will it be worth all the dollars and obsessing about your bike?Just put your Leathers on and ride already and enjoy it for what it is.I don't mean you any ill will and think you are a nice guy.
BTW I'll be riding first hint of spring.. Group rides...solo..with friends a trip or two to PA and deals gap instead of marking a date on the calender and waiting for it like a crackhead for his dealer to arrive..... ride safe and enjoy your summer cause I know I will
BTW I'll be riding first hint of spring.. Group rides...solo..with friends a trip or two to PA and deals gap instead of marking a date on the calender and waiting for it like a crackhead for his dealer to arrive..... ride safe and enjoy your summer cause I know I will
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I was thinking about this some more and it might make sense. If the pistons on one side of the caliper retract more than the other side when the brake lever is let go, the fully floating rotor would be able to move over the small amount to run in the pad gap where the non floating would still drag on the unretracted pad.
Lol bud, long time no see! Thanks for pitching in, but I did more than just one track day and my lap times are very good for first season rider, and may I remind you me and you were sharing the same view always regarding the safety of streets, then at the same time doing the 230 in the 70 zones down to Niagara each and every time we rode! You're right, haven't crashed yet, but in a way looking forward to it as a learning experience, and I'd much rather crush my bike in my leathers on the track than the street. Besides, most my upgrades are not so expensive and I won't cry when I crush it, I promise. Never felt the need to upgrade things like brakes for example on the street, but did so on the track, lol..
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