Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[backmarkerducati]

Forum Sponsor

What are the dimensions of the room? 150sq' can't be any wider than 12' 4" in the narrow run -- no LVL required.

2x8 floor joists will span 12'7" 16OC.

Double LVL is because it is a loft and open on one end to the room below. The ceiling joists are being rotated 90° to become rafter ties (there were no rafter ties before), total span is just over 18 feet (left to right below) if they were to go rafter to rafter. Everything rests directly on the block walls (double brick house) or down to a block wall below (grey). The floor joists will be around 10 feet long between one side of the roof rafters (on the right below) to the LVL beam. Then smaller ties (as this portion is not a floor and open to below) will be used between the beam and the other side of the roof rafters with another small section on double 2X. Where the plywood ends on the right side below will be a small knee wall to the rafters. Same on the left where the double 2X is shown. Both sides the joists tie in directly to the rafters and will be on the block walls.



That old ceiling had the 2X4s going the top to bottom compared to the diagram above (90°) and did nothing but poorly hold up the ceiling....

The area is larger than 150 sq.ft (that is just how much the first dump run was). I was running out of space to store the debris and it was becoming unsafe to work in the area. The rest goes in the next run including the walls with the two doors.

 

[backmarkerducati]

What saved the floor? Old mattress? Plywood? That's a big hit that would shake things loose in the rest of the house.

There are oak floors in the room below that I refinished a few years ago. Below that is the garage.

I put down ramboard and tried to keep the falling pieces small to reduce the impacts. We will see how "rustic" the floors look when I pull up the ramboard... I should have also used some plywood or even just more cardboard I will see how much I regret not doing so when it is all done.

 

[GreyGhost]

Double LVL is because it is a loft and open on one end to the room below. The ceiling joists are being rotated 90° to become rafter ties (there were no rafter ties before), total span is just over 18 feet (left to right below) if they were to go rafter to rafter. Everything rests directly on the block walls (double brick house) or down to a block wall below (grey). The floor joists will be around 10 feet long between one side of the roof rafters (on the right below) to the LVL beam. Then smaller ties (as this portion is not a floor and open to below) will be used between the beam and the other side of the roof rafters with another small section on double 2X. Where the plywood ends on the right side below will be a small knee wall to the rafters. Same on the left where the double 2X is shown. Both sides the joists tie in directly to the rafters and will be on the block walls.

View attachment 64712

That old ceiling had the 2X4s going the top to bottom compared to the diagram above (90°) and did nothing but poorly hold up the ceiling....

The area is larger than 150 sq.ft (that is just how much the first dump run was). I was running out of space to store the debris and it was becoming unsafe to work in the area. The rest goes in the next run including the walls with the two doors.

So the "rafter ties" are split into three segments across the span? What is carrying the tension across the breaks? Nailing off plywood instead of screwing it?

 

[sburns]

IPEX DWV 1.5-in ABS Air Admittance Valve

Venting is always a challenge in renos. There are two options, AAV or a vent loop. AAVs are between $5 and 35 depending on what you want. I have found the $6 valves to work fine if you can get it well above (8") the fill level of your sink. For an island install, I'd buy the better $30 valves that close tight under positive pressure, that's cheap insurance.

The vent loop is trickier as you have to find an existing vent and a route to it, and you must make sure there are no other vents in the stack above the fill line in the sink.

I would consult a plumber if you want to tie into an existing vent stack and you're not on the top floor.

Thanks Mike!

 

[backmarkerducati]

So the "rafter ties" are split into three segments across the span? What is carrying the tension across the breaks? Nailing off plywood instead of screwing it?

Bolted through steel tension braces at each connection (both sides of the beams). Plus everything else will be done with a combination of proper framing nails and proper rated structural screws--no deck screws etc.

But as far as that goes this has stood for over 80 years with no rafter ties....

 

[mimico_polak]

Not gonna lie….i am effing proud of myself getting that saw fixed. Runs good. No noise. No smell. No issue.

My friends think I’m a fool for messing around with a saw…but I’ll show them when that blade falls off in the spring! Hopefully not toward my head…

Super proud (until it fails) … then … not so much.

 

[mimico_polak]

And now next step….garage cleanup.

WTH….why doesn’t GTAM let me make the photos smaller so u can post them.

 

[Wingboy]

Ice maker in my 9 year old LG fridge started puking out slushies last week. Defrosted it, didn't help for very long.
Been very busy lately so i called a service company. Service guy looked at it and told me $500 for the part, and $300 labour. Bye!
I'll use ice cube trays thank you.

 

[GreyGhost]

And now next step….garage cleanup.

WTH….why doesn’t GTAM let me make the photos smaller so u can post them.

Just use imgbb. Easy, fast and free.

 

[GreyGhost]

Ice maker in my 9 year old LG fridge started puking out slushies last week. Defrosted it, didn't help for very long.
Been very busy lately so i called a service company. Service guy looked at it and told me $500 for the part, and $300 labour. Bye!
I'll use ice cube trays thank you.

Ice in the fridge compartment or in the freezer? Mine is in the fridge and has a separate coil in the back of the fridge. Without taking it substantially apart, defrosting that could would probably take a day as there is minimal air flow wuth the fridge off and lots of insulation. Mine has only gone wrong once and it involved family not closing the door fully when it was humid. Normal defrost cycle couldn't recover the giant block of ice.

 

[Wingboy]

Ice in the fridge compartment or in the freezer? Mine is in the fridge and has a separate coil in the back of the fridge. Without taking it substantially apart, defrosting that could would probably take a day as there is minimal air flow wuth the fridge off and lots of insulation. Mine has only gone wrong once and it involved family not closing the door fully when it was humid. Normal defrost cycle couldn't recover the giant block of ice.

Mine is in the bottom freezer.

 

[nobbie48]

O

Ice in the fridge compartment or in the freezer? Mine is in the fridge and has a separate coil in the back of the fridge. Without taking it substantially apart, defrosting that could would probably take a day as there is minimal air flow wuth the fridge off and lots of insulation. Mine has only gone wrong once and it involved family not closing the door fully when it was humid. Normal defrost cycle couldn't recover the giant block of ice.

Our ice dispenser is a pair of cheap dollar store tongs left in the freezer

 

[crankcall]

Our in fridge ice maker crapped out , 3 service calls and was still leaking on tbe floor ( I’ll try this next!). 20yr old Kitchenaid . New Frigidaire is 4 months old and evaporator fan is howling . But I have ice …..


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com

 

[Jampy00]

Looking to do some roof related work in the future and wonder if anyone has anyone they would recommend.
Facia and soffit replacement with all the appropriate trim etc. Then gutters and downspouts.

New house has a "touch of Kevin" in many places and I need to get it gone... @mimico_polak knows the deal..

 

[mimico_polak]

Looking to do some roof related work in the future and wonder if anyone has anyone they would recommend.
Facia and soffit replacement with all the appropriate trim etc. Then gutters and downspouts.

New house has a "touch of Kevin" in many places and I need to get it gone... @mimico_polak knows the deal..

There's no shortage of Kevins! I'm sure people think I'm a Kevin also when they see my work.

But Kevin did good work on the concrete around the house.

As for roof / soffits. I may have a guy, last I checked his price for eavestrough replacement was $10/linear foot as a quick number. Can send you his number if you'd like. Let me know.

He does soffits and downspouts also. His dad was our window / door guy, but had a better price on my door that I replaced. Although the caulking around the frame wasn't top notch.

 

[backmarkerducati]

@mimico_polak how does the house feel draft.temp wise after the insulation and do you see a big difference in NG usage for heat?

 

[GreyGhost]

Looking to do some roof related work in the future and wonder if anyone has anyone they would recommend.
Facia and soffit replacement with all the appropriate trim etc. Then gutters and downspouts.

New house has a "touch of Kevin" in many places and I need to get it gone... @mimico_polak knows the deal..

I would get one contractor to do facia/soffit/gutters all at the same time. Half the time is setting up ladders/work platforms.

I suspect most competent installers are forming gutters from rolls on site so you only have joints at the corners (anyone buying 10' lengths is automatically off my list). Try to look at jobs they have done. Lots push them tight to the shingles as it's fast/easy but drains like hell. As much as it looks a bit strange, they need to be sloped.

Anyone I could recommend is way too far away and that would drive price up too much.

If I was going to the expense of new gutters, I would install bigger gutters (6 or 7") and downspouts. Flows better, clogs less, easier to blow debris out of (this is a big one as shingles cover a decent percentage of normal residential gutters). Not sure how many contractors have the setup to do larger gutters. May need to look at commercial contractors.

 

[Jampy00]

There's no shortage of Kevins! I'm sure people think I'm a Kevin also when they see my work.

But Kevin did good work on the concrete around the house.

As for roof / soffits. I may have a guy, last I checked his price for eavestrough replacement was $10/linear foot as a quick number. Can send you his number if you'd like. Let me know.

He does soffits and downspouts also. His dad was our window / door guy, but had a better price on my door that I replaced. Although the caulking around the frame wasn't top notch.

Yes DM it to me, not sure when I'll get this done. The house is water tight but I don't like the looks of things and we want to do a colour change.

 

[mimico_polak]

@mimico_polak how does the house feel draft temp wise after the insulation and do you see a big difference in NG usage for heat?

I was planning on making a post about it but you beat me to it.

1. The heat retention in the rooms where the kids are is MUCH better because they're both over the living space in the house
2. Our bedroom the heat retention is good, and seeing a big difference in how long the room stays warmer
3. Living room / Kitchen is still cool but...fireplace is allowing cold air in. Patio door wasn't replaced and that's the coldest spot, and most importantly the largest wall there isn't insulated yet because that's where Kevin's shed is. 90% of it is...but the edges aren't so they're still letting the house breathe out.
4. Can't comment on the usage of natural gas as it's too soon, however the thermostat is in the living room...which is where it's the coldest. So when it fires up the upstairs gets very warm quickly. I'm running lower temps than last year (21.5C v 23C) to keep upstairs warm as I don't worry much about the living area, but more so the bedrooms.
5. Our bedroom is also above the garage, which is cold and I still need to seal it. Our floor is fairly cool, so that translates to cooling off the room quicker than the others. Almost considering adding a layer of rigid insulation (currently spray foam) on the ceiling....just gluing it to the ceiling of the garage, but that may cause moisture issues as right now it's drywall -> spray foam -> floor b/w the garage and our bedroom.
6. Bathroom has a wall that hasn't been insulated yet, and I should get into the attic because the large wall separating the lower and higher part of the house isn't insulated from the attic into the house. So that's a large chunk of wall not insulated.

Overall, yes. I'm seeing a difference, but until the living room area is completed I'm not expecting magic this year.

May need to borrow a thermal camera again to see how it stacks up.

EDIT: Very important point here...my 'cold' floor issue would be very quickly alleviated if I simply decided to wear socks and slippers in the house. But I don't. So that obviously doesn't help.

 

[oioioi]

Looking to do some roof related work in the future and wonder if anyone has anyone they would recommend.
Facia and soffit replacement with all the appropriate trim etc. Then gutters and downspouts.

New house has a "touch of Kevin" in many places and I need to get it gone... @mimico_polak knows the deal..

I have a contact for facia and gutter work etc
I can pass it over.

Forum Sponsor