Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[nobbie48]

I would get one contractor to do facia/soffit/gutters all at the same time. Half the time is setting up ladders/work platforms.

I suspect most competent installers are forming gutters from rolls on site so you only have joints at the corners (anyone buying 10' lengths is automatically off my list). Try to look at jobs they have done. Lots push them tight to the shingles as it's fast/easy but drains like hell. As much as it looks a bit strange, they need to be sloped.

Anyone I could recommend is way too far away and that would drive price up too much.

If I was going to the expense of new gutters, I would install bigger gutters (6 or 7") and downspouts. Flows better, clogs less, easier to blow debris out of (this is a big one as shingles cover a decent percentage of normal residential gutters). Not sure how many contractors have the setup to do larger gutters. May need to look at commercial contractors.

I discovered that my new roof has shingles so far over the gutters I could, in one edge, barely get a few fingers in. The leaves and this years bumper crop of maple keys got in easily.

The shingles are supposed to overhang 1/2" to 3/4". More can lead to wind lifting and obviously makes cleaning with a blower more difficult.

In some ways I like galvanized troughs and leaders, soldered connections. Tough as nails and if painted properly might need a re-coat every ten years or so.

A late uncle's wife wanted the eaves troughs to match their car colour. New car and out came the ladders and paint brushes.

I just got the eaves cleaned out and next year the job should be easier. The prolific maple is diseased and coming down in a month or two.

 

[nobbie48]

I was planning on making a post about it but you beat me to it.

1. The heat retention in the rooms where the kids are is MUCH better because they're both over the living space in the house
2. Our bedroom the heat retention is good, and seeing a big difference in how long the room stays warmer
3. Living room / Kitchen is still cool but...fireplace is allowing cold air in. Patio door wasn't replaced and that's the coldest spot, and most importantly the largest wall there isn't insulated yet because that's where Kevin's shed is. 90% of it is...but the edges aren't so they're still letting the house breathe out.
4. Can't comment on the usage of natural gas as it's too soon, however the thermostat is in the living room...which is where it's the coldest. So when it fires up the upstairs gets very warm quickly. I'm running lower temps than last year (21.5C v 23C) to keep upstairs warm as I don't worry much about the living area, but more so the bedrooms.
5. Our bedroom is also above the garage, which is cold and I still need to seal it. Our floor is fairly cool, so that translates to cooling off the room quicker than the others. Almost considering adding a layer of rigid insulation (currently spray foam) on the ceiling....just gluing it to the ceiling of the garage, but that may cause moisture issues as right now it's drywall -> spray foam -> floor b/w the garage and our bedroom.
6. Bathroom has a wall that hasn't been insulated yet, and I should get into the attic because the large wall separating the lower and higher part of the house isn't insulated from the attic into the house. So that's a large chunk of wall not insulated.

Overall, yes. I'm seeing a difference, but until the living room area is completed I'm not expecting magic this year.

May need to borrow a thermal camera again to see how it stacks up.

Floors over unheated spaces are always a problem. They never come up to room temperature and if your feet are cold the room air can be 80°F and you still feel cold.

Carpet helps as it has lower conductivity than wood or tile. More insulation in the garage ceiling helps but nothing equals floor warming but it isn't cheap.

Heating the floor to room temperature (70°F) simulates having a heated space below the bedroom.

Heating the floor to 84°F feels foot temperature neutral and even tile is OK.

Above that it gets really cozy but brings on other problems, some serious.

If you had enough headroom in the garage a dropped ceiling would allow for a forced air heater to warm the bedroom floor.

I re-insulated our garage ceiling when I found that our circa 1960 house had minimal batts installed. It's a PITA job but garage drywall doesn't have to be pretty, just fireproof.

 

[Jampy00]

I have a contact for facia and gutter work etc
I can pass it over.

Please do, not sure when this project will start but it is on the list...

 

[mimico_polak]

Floors over unheated spaces are always a problem. They never come up to room temperature and if your feet are cold the room air can be 80°F and you still feel cold.

Carpet helps as it has lower conductivity than wood or tile. More insulation in the garage ceiling helps but nothing equals floor warming but it isn't cheap.

Heating the floor to room temperature (70°F) simulates having a heated space below the bedroom.

Heating the floor to 84°F feels foot temperature neutral and even tile is OK.

Above that it gets really cozy but brings on other problems, some serious.

If you had enough headroom in the garage a dropped ceiling would allow for a forced air heater to warm the bedroom floor.

I re-insulated our garage ceiling when I found that our circa 1960 house had minimal batts installed. It's a PITA job but garage drywall doesn't have to be pretty, just fireproof.

Agree with all your points. I originally insulated the garage ceiling when I ripped everything out with spray foam. Maybe I didn't use enough, or maybe I did and it's just the nature of the beast.

I'm not ripping it apart again.

However, once (if) I do the bathrooms, I'll ensure that there are heated floors there.

Another option I'm considering is ripping out the basement ceiling, and insulating the actual space b/w the main floor and basement as that may also retain heat better.

Lots of options. But for now...I'm done.

 

[Jampy00]

I would get one contractor to do facia/soffit/gutters all at the same time. Half the time is setting up ladders/work platforms.

I suspect most competent installers are forming gutters from rolls on site so you only have joints at the corners (anyone buying 10' lengths is automatically off my list). Try to look at jobs they have done. Lots push them tight to the shingles as it's fast/easy but drains like hell. As much as it looks a bit strange, they need to be sloped.

Anyone I could recommend is way too far away and that would drive price up too much.

If I was going to the expense of new gutters, I would install bigger gutters (6 or 7") and downspouts. Flows better, clogs less, easier to blow debris out of (this is a big one as shingles cover a decent percentage of normal residential gutters). Not sure how many contractors have the setup to do larger gutters. May need to look at commercial contractors.

100% a professional contractor. If I wanted a crappy job I'd do it myself... lol need a larger facia to accept a larger gutter/down spouts and the house once had ivy on it so the soffit looks like crap. Plus we want to change the colour.

Working on windows and doors at the moment so that will eat up the 2024 budget for sure...

 

[GreyGhost]

Another option I'm considering is ripping out the basement ceiling, and insulating the actual space b/w the main floor and basement as that may also retain heat better.

I would not do that. Basement is part of your conditioned space. That's a lot of time and money for minimal benefit imo.

On a slightly related note, I was in an old fancy house visiting a friend one time. I was confused about something I saw in the basement until I figured it out. They had an old-school radiator hanging from the ceiling in the basement. Directly above is where you would stand at the sink. Old school heated floors. Pimpin.

 

[mimico_polak]

100% a professional contractor. If I wanted a crappy job I'd do it myself... lol need a larger facia to accept a larger gutter/down spouts and the house once had ivy on it so the soffit looks like crap. Plus we want to change the colour.

Working on windows and doors at the moment so that will eat up the 2024 budget for sure...

The guy I sent you gave us a good price on the windows also, so you may be able to get everything done at the same time.

Make sure he includes flashing around the windows though. Some guys will add that as an extra 'well you didn't say you wanted flashing....'.

I would not do that. Basement is part of your conditioned space. That's a lot of time and money for minimal benefit imo.

Most likely true. However it would also allow me to see if there are any drafts along the edge of the block wall that can be plugged up.

But I could just put some socks on...

 

[Jampy00]

The guy I sent you gave us a good price on the windows also, so you may be able to get everything done at the same time.

I got a window guy, like one road over from my new place and did the windows and doors on our old house. He is top notch and a heck of a good guy.

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[mimico_polak]

I got a window guy, like one road over from my new place and did the windows and doors on our old house. He is top notch and a heck of a good guy.

Country Windows & Doors

The Perfect Windows and Doors Service for Every Home & Family Installation & Sales Request A Free Quote Our Services Country Windows & Doors are local experts with over 20 years experience servicing customers across South Western Ontario. We guarantee you top quality, Canadian made windows and...

cwad.ca

Usually window guys also do soffits and eavestroughs so that'd be my best bet as a starting point.

But only if they roll the metal in their car. I wouldn't want them putting it together from 10ft pieces with additional joints.

 

[GreyGhost]

Most likely true. However it would also allow me to see if there are any drafts along the edge of the block wall that can be plugged up.

But I could just put some socks on...

Insulated/sealing the rim joist can make a big difference. I was ****** they didn't do that in my house before they essentially closed off the ceiling. I wouldn't insulate the field though in most applications (although there are exceptions).

 

[Jampy00]

Usually window guys also do soffits and eavestroughs so that'd be my best bet as a starting point.

But only if they roll the metal in their car. I wouldn't want them putting it together from 10ft pieces with additional joints.

Not this one, he only does windows and doors and a little siding work as required.

 

[mimico_polak]

One easy fix for heat in our place are just taking off these dumb registers…



I find they restrict a lot of airflow.

 

[GreyGhost]

One easy fix for heat in our place are just taking off these dumb registers…

View attachment 64733

I find they restrict a lot of airflow.

They look great but absolutely kill flow. Probably flow 25% of a good register. I put them in my last house. Aria vents have the same issue (they publish their flow data and it's appalling).

Look at proper high flow (low-restriction) registers from Hart & Cooley or Dayus. Pricey but flow far better. I almost pulled the trigger on a full set a few years ago but price was out of control. May try again to see if things are better. Or may just replace registers on second floor as that area needs more flow. Like every other house, BS undersized mechanical installation with about half of the registers and returns that it should have. Original furnace was single stage with 100F temp rise. Slowly improving things but banging my head against the wall as fixing the crap ducting is too big of a project to bother with.

 

[Gary]

Not this one, he only does windows and doors and a little siding work as required.

If your diy, here's some delivered pricing....

Gutter.... $2.35/ft
Hangers.....$1.30 each.
Downpipe 10'.....$18.70 each.
Elbows......$2.60 each.

 

[GreyGhost]

If your diy, here's some delivered pricing....

Gutter.... $2.35/ft

How does that work? You give them a full cut sheet and they show up and bang out all the pieces in the driveway and then leave? They leave you with the machine for the day and they weigh the roll before/after?

 

[Jampy00]

If your diy, here's some delivered pricing....

Gutter.... $2.35/ft
Hangers.....$1.30 each.
Downpipe 10'.....$18.70 each.
Elbows......$2.60 each.

Thanks, but I need Facia's and soffits as well.. while I'm all for DIY but for gutters I want someone with the know how and tools to roll them.

 

[Gary]

How does that work? You give them a full cut sheet and they show up and bang out all the pieces in the driveway and then leave? They leave you with the machine for the day and they weigh the roll before/after?

They have a trough rolling machine in the cube van.
Start with a 15" coil in your favorite colour. It feeds into, and through the machine, and out comes 5" trough to your desired length (300' max).
Downspouts, corners, and elbows are pre fab.

 

[Gary]

Thanks, but I need Facia's and soffits as well.. while I'm all for DIY but for gutters I want someone with the know how and tools to roll them.

In this order.
Rip down existing fascia boards and soffit. Replace fascia boards. Nothing to that. You just saved $3-5K.
As for soffits. Buy the desired material, inc "J channel", a pair of snips, screwgun and some screws. Done. Another $5K saved.
Then you'll need a siding brake (there's one here, but it's extremely old) and a 24" flatstock coil in the colour of choice. Likely best to hire this out.
Then gutters. Snips, a screwgun, and a caulking gun is about all you're going to need.

 

[mimico_polak]

In this order.
Rip down existing fascia boards and soffit. Replace fascia boards. Nothing to that. You just saved $3-5K.
As for soffits. Buy the desired material, inc "J channel", a pair of snips, screwgun and some screws. Done. Another $5K saved.
Then you'll need a siding brake (there's one here, but it's extremely old) and a 24" flatstock coil in the colour of choice. Likely best to hire this out.
Then gutters. Snips, a screwgun, and a caulking gun is about all you're going to need.

That’s pretty much it. Did the soffits on our new shed and dad bent all the metal here in my yard.

He asked if we should sell the brake…I told him to keep it, just in case.

But I’ll be selling his joiner soon as I don’t see any need for it.

 

[GreyGhost]

But I’ll be selling his joiner soon as I don’t see any need for it.

Jointer? Or is a joiner a thing?