ESL is a thing…leave it to you to find the error!
This thing…
Maybe that’s why I didn’t find many joiners on Kijiji for comparison!
|
|
|
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
ESL is a thing…leave it to you to find the error!
This thing…
Maybe that’s why I didn’t find many joiners on Kijiji for comparison!
That's very good advice. I saw it in one of your pics.
I've had mine 40+yrs. Old banger style (10'6"). Not good for much over 7' atm, but handy af to have around.
I have no clue how to use it…but it’s there and is practically brand new. 19” wide and 10.5ft long IIRC.
When can you start... lol
I was thinking of doing it myself, but will have to wait for nicer weather (I have indoor projects to do)
I'll have to attend Youtube university for some pointers as this is something I have never done and want to only have to do it once.
It's simple to use. Shoulda got pops to show you.
Tape measure, pencil, and a knife. Practice with some scrap pieces. Get the hang of a 90° bend (slightly overbend) and you'll have a new career.
Brake is simple enough to figure out. Complicated shapes require more braining to make sure you do the bends in the right order so you don't screw yourself. It's easier than conduit as almost every bend is parallel and all are in the same plane.
I'm too old for anything like what you're doing.
I could still do the ground work, ie cutting / bending etc, but up & down ladders are a thing of the past for me.....severe kneezles.
That's why he lives in the country and bought a tractor. No ladders needed, just take the elevator.
You know the type....the old Polak type.
'it's easy, do this here, that there, and whatchamacall it here. Done!'
'See how easy it is?'
I've got some material left over, and will mess around with it in the new year when I do the old shed cladding. Will have time to do a bunch of bends / flashings around windows there also so there's no rush.
Where is Jack from Guelph does decent aluminum work
HOME | Jack's Aluminum
www.whereisjack.ca
Set up a router jig and enlarge all the slots , then bevel the bottoms to increase the funnel effect . Good afternoon project for wood worker dad
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com mobile app
And it’s a jointer , the joiner is the guy operating it .
Makes edges flat and parallel and flattens faces of boards to join them together . Don’t sell it , put it on a princess auto movers dolly so you can get it around and keep it . Once you know what it can do , you’ll like it .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Makes edges flat and parallel and flattens faces of boards to join them together . Don’t sell it , put it on a princess auto movers dolly so you can get it around and keep it . Once you know what it can do , you’ll like it .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
By design, it will be a rough road. By the time you remove enough wood to get good flow, a foot will go through. If you really want flow, cleaning out the center and installing metal plates gives you good flow with a better look than a surface register. Lots of work to make your $50 registers look worse though. I guess it depends whether flow or looks takes priority. Since floor was constructed for flush mount registers, you can't easily buy an off-the-shelf solution that flows well.
If it wasn’t for the youngest one I’d take off all the registers and see how the house reacts.
Thinking of our next project now the bathroom is close to being finished.
Bedroom over an unheated garage. It’s always been a cold room as it’s at the end of the HVAC duct system. Tried an inline blower and still no joy. Decided to repaint the room and do the floor at the same time while adding a heated floor cable as the one we have in the bathroom works really well.
2 things are an issue. Getting to the garage ceiling underneath is not going to be easy and also…our own Kevin got rid of attic access in the bedroom years ago and didn’t replace it so getting into the overhead area is also difficult without getting attic access done.
So I want to do what we can with the access we have to add a bit of insulation to the bedroom floor before the heating cable goes in. We can easily get down to the bare plywood floor and because of the other rooms and transitions we can also build that floor up by an inch at least if necessary. I’m thinking that a decent compromise if we can’t spray foam the garage ceiling joist spaces underneath is to add some kind of thick wonder insulation before the heated floor cable and then the final floor covering goes in. Is there such a thing?
Lastly is the finished floor selection. As it’s a bedroom and we have elderly pets the floor should not be slippy and also not too hard so tile is out. It also has to conduct the heat from the heating cable reasonably. Are there click/vinyl products made for heated floors? Most of the ones I’ve seen have an insulated backing which probably isn’t ideal.
Bedroom over an unheated garage. It’s always been a cold room as it’s at the end of the HVAC duct system. Tried an inline blower and still no joy. Decided to repaint the room and do the floor at the same time while adding a heated floor cable as the one we have in the bathroom works really well.
2 things are an issue. Getting to the garage ceiling underneath is not going to be easy and also…our own Kevin got rid of attic access in the bedroom years ago and didn’t replace it so getting into the overhead area is also difficult without getting attic access done.
So I want to do what we can with the access we have to add a bit of insulation to the bedroom floor before the heating cable goes in. We can easily get down to the bare plywood floor and because of the other rooms and transitions we can also build that floor up by an inch at least if necessary. I’m thinking that a decent compromise if we can’t spray foam the garage ceiling joist spaces underneath is to add some kind of thick wonder insulation before the heated floor cable and then the final floor covering goes in. Is there such a thing?
Lastly is the finished floor selection. As it’s a bedroom and we have elderly pets the floor should not be slippy and also not too hard so tile is out. It also has to conduct the heat from the heating cable reasonably. Are there click/vinyl products made for heated floors? Most of the ones I’ve seen have an insulated backing which probably isn’t ideal.
You could cut the sub-floor to access the joist space. That lets you insulate the floor. If you make the cuts over joists, you will only need to add a few pieces of blocking to support the perpendicular cuts.
I highly highly do not recommend a lip between rooms. That is a serious tripping hazard. You can solve a slight offset (up to 1" maybe) with a wide threshold (8" or so) but you may need to make that piece yourself and it can look weird from the hall.
Heated floor for an entire bedroom will be power hungry. Can you get a dedicated circuit for it? Is existing bedroom circuit shared with lots of other things or is it just that room? I do not like inaccessible attic spaces as I want to be able to see issues developing. While the room is apart, I would try to add a hatch to the closet if you can. That may help facilitate extra power for the room.
@nobbie48 is the heated floor master. I think you can do luxury vinyl. Make sure you follow cable install guide including using a megger prior to thinset burying your expensive cable.
Our dog felt more comfortable on LV than hardwood. Laminate was clearly the worst option (even worse than tile) as there are no features to grip on and it is hard and smooth.
Now's a good time to sell a heated garage to the wife to make the pets more comfortable.
You could cut the sub-floor to access the joist space. That lets you insulate the floor. If you make the cuts over joists, you will only need to add a few pieces of blocking to support the perpendicular cuts.
I highly highly do not recommend a lip between rooms. That is a serious tripping hazard. You can solve a slight offset (up to 1" maybe) with a wide threshold (8" or so) but you may need to make that piece yourself and it can look weird from the hall.
Heated floor for an entire bedroom will be power hungry. Can you get a dedicated circuit for it? Is existing bedroom circuit shared with lots of other things or is it just that room? I do not like inaccessible attic spaces as I want to be able to see issues developing. While the room is apart, I would try to add a hatch to the closet if you can. That may help facilitate extra power for the room.
@nobbie48 is the heated floor master. I think you can do luxury vinyl. Make sure you follow cable install guide including using a megger prior to thinset burying your expensive cable.
Our dog felt more comfortable on LV than hardwood. Laminate was clearly the worst option (even worse than tile) as there are no features to grip on and it is hard and smooth.
Now's a good time to sell a heated garage to the wife to make the pets more comfortable.
Hmm. Maybe that’s the way forward then through the bedroom floor. Currently it’s the bedroom floor that is about an inch lower than the en-suite bathroom so building it up won’t cause an issue and in fact, it’ll be better in the long run. For the heated floor we will only heat the bit we walk on. Under the bed and cabinets/dresser won’t be done. We have a few spare circuits from removing the jacuzzi tub and a bunch of baseboard heaters a while back and the good news is that the fuse panel is directly under the bedroom in the garage.
Just thinking out loud. How much is thermal bridging (from the joists) impacting the cold floors above garages??? I know people insulate more only to still find the floor is still cold.... R factors (testing results...) on the packages do not consider the impact of thermal bridging of the wood, the testing/rating does not consider the entire system, just the one material. I think the R value of a 2X10 will be around 11, 2X8 is around 9 from a bridging perspective.
Taking a play out of basement finishing... would adding a 1 inch foam board (or more if you can give a little ceiling height away) in a continuous layer (and all sealed up) on the top of the sub floor with plywood on top of that be a reasonable solution??? There are foam boards that can support the weight, even some claim you can lay the floating flooring on top...
Alternatively, the layer of foam could be added to the garage ceiling continuously and dry-walled over, providing a thermal break below the joists. But it is a vapour barrier and depending what is above it that could be a rub.
I do echo the concerns about a lip but if it is the master I am sure one would learn after a dozen or so faceplants, no glass tables near the door to start. Maybe a worse idea for a guest room???
Taking a play out of basement finishing... would adding a 1 inch foam board (or more if you can give a little ceiling height away) in a continuous layer (and all sealed up) on the top of the sub floor with plywood on top of that be a reasonable solution??? There are foam boards that can support the weight, even some claim you can lay the floating flooring on top...
Alternatively, the layer of foam could be added to the garage ceiling continuously and dry-walled over, providing a thermal break below the joists. But it is a vapour barrier and depending what is above it that could be a rub.
I do echo the concerns about a lip but if it is the master I am sure one would learn after a dozen or so faceplants, no glass tables near the door to start. Maybe a worse idea for a guest room???
That’s a good point and it’s probably amplified by our particular build in that the garage ceiling is already quite low and the distance between the garage ceiling and the subfloor above is actually quite shallow too although it’s probably whatever the minimum joist size should be by code. There’s not that much room to actually shove a whole bunch of insulation (I drilled a test hole in the garage ceiling to see, it’s filled with some pink rockwool stuff) so then temperature transmission is amplified through anything that contacts the two different areas.
Ideally we would move the contents of the garage and the upstairs bedroom out, rip out the garage ceiling and remove the pink stuff, spray foam the living bejesus out of everything and put the ceiling back then get to work on the floor above that. Thing is our budget and situation won’t stretch to that right now so we want to concentrate on the bedroom floor and then maybe in the future we can see to the garage ceiling separately.
After we put a decent subfloor in with whatever might insulate the area (I found some panels that specifically insulate and prepare the floor for heating cables and keep the heat reflected into the room and not the subfloor) any height discrepancy between adjoining floors will go. If I have an inch to make up then that’s a reasonable amount of insulation I can put in anyway, Just depends on whatever gives the best performance and is still compatible with a heated floor on top of that.
We put a heated floor in the en-suite bathroom and that required a thick layer of self levelling concrete to lay the cables in. That’s the reason why there’s a big discrepancy right now.
Edit: did some reading and apparently dense laminate is fine on top of a heated floor. As long as it’s 18mm or less in depth it will be fine and the denser the better for heat conduction.
One other thing the collective brains may be able to help with. This is somewhat simpler:
We have an on-grade lower room with a concrete floor (with a floating engineered wood floor on top). It’s part of an old addition. There’s a door to this room that leads outside and the door is set onto a small concrete step. So part of this step is outside and part is inside the room. With it being the lowest room in the house it can get humid at times and as a result of the temperature discrepancy between inside and outside the step gets stained with mould stains on the inside from condensation. So we scrub it down, and have painted it in the past but it just keeps coming back. I’m tired of it now and it looks ugly when it’s stained so is there something I can do to stop it getting mould on it? I was wondering if I could glue a panel to the front face of the step to insulate it a bit from the temperature difference or something?
We do have a good furnace and decent AC that is effective in this room but there’s obviously just enough condensation for mould to form on that step.
We have an on-grade lower room with a concrete floor (with a floating engineered wood floor on top). It’s part of an old addition. There’s a door to this room that leads outside and the door is set onto a small concrete step. So part of this step is outside and part is inside the room. With it being the lowest room in the house it can get humid at times and as a result of the temperature discrepancy between inside and outside the step gets stained with mould stains on the inside from condensation. So we scrub it down, and have painted it in the past but it just keeps coming back. I’m tired of it now and it looks ugly when it’s stained so is there something I can do to stop it getting mould on it? I was wondering if I could glue a panel to the front face of the step to insulate it a bit from the temperature difference or something?
We do have a good furnace and decent AC that is effective in this room but there’s obviously just enough condensation for mould to form on that step.
|
|
|
|
|