Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 383 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

mimico_polak said:
Awesome thanks for the input.

#1 - too bad
#2 - currently do not have power there. So plan is to run a 110VAC from an outlet in the garage to the spot where the doorbell will be. Drill through the wall, and put the 24VDC line to the doorbell and same to chime in closet.
#3 - Yes, thin bricks being installed (where I have photos earlier in the thread of scratch coat

Thank you.
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#2, won't nest doorbells run on batteries?
 
Mad Mike said:
#2, won't nest doorbells run on batteries?
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You can buy one that is battery operated. I wouldnt do it unless I didn't have a choice. About one day a month it needs to be plugged in. Pain in the ass and obviously down ~3% of the time. If you get really unlucky, the time the battery dies will be when you are away.
 
Scuba Steve said:
Found this all yours if you want it was working when removed.from my old wired landscape lights good size transformer.
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Sent from the future
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Those are the ones I just tossed ( or the same types)

If you're the guy who goes thru my weekly recycling, this is winebottle week! Get here early.
 
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

IMG_0068.jpeg
 
mimico_polak said:
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

View attachment 62151
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I can give you some good screws for that. At this point, I would fill holes with wood and glue and re-drill. I need to do that to one hinge. It's the kids. Hanging off cabinet doors is brutal on them.
 
GreyGhost said:
I can give you some good screws for that. At this point, I would fill holes with wood and glue and re-drill. I need to do that to one hinge. It's the kids. Hanging off cabinet doors is brutal on them.
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What kind of screws do you recommend? I'm a HD at this stage with screws in the house. There's about 2-2.5" of MDF before I penetrate to the other side.
 
mimico_polak said:
What kind of screws do you recommend? I'm a HD at this stage with screws in the house. There's about 2-2.5" of MDF before I penetrate to the other side.
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I was going to say these, but if you have that much depth, I would be using a much longer coarse thread screw. At this point, I would still fill with wood glue and toothpicks and then redrill pilot holes.

01Z9003-13mm-euro-screws-pkg-of-100-f-03.jpg


My euro screws are ~1/2" long. You can get Blum system screws with similar threads up to about an inch long. If you have more than 2", knockdown screws are designed to bite into garbage wood (but diameter may be too large).
 
mimico_polak said:
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

View attachment 62151
Click to expand...
It's a bit ugly inside but a steel plate screwed to the MDF and sheet metal screws for the hinge. I have some 16 gauge if you need it, just give me a measurement. I'm not sure if the added 60 thou will cause adjustment issues.

I'm slowly getting rid of the cup hinges in favour of the traditional stuff. The cup stuff interferes with pull outs.
 
GreyGhost said:
You can buy one that is battery operated. I wouldnt do it unless I didn't have a choice. About one day a month it needs to be plugged in. Pain in the ass and obviously down ~3% of the time. If you get really unlucky, the time the battery dies will be when you are away.
Click to expand...

I have a battery doorbell/camera combo. Lasts for several months on a charge depending on camera sensitivity settings. Take it off with a small tool that magnetically sticks to my fridge. Charge it overnight and it’s done. No biggie and I didn’t want to run wires.
 
mimico_polak said:
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

View attachment 62151
Click to expand...
 
mimico_polak said:
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

View attachment 62151
Click to expand...
 
mimico_polak said:
Back to houses…our door on one of the lower cabinets continues to let loose and the hinge is coming out of the MDF box.

I’ve tried glue, wood pieces to make the fit better and everything in between.

It’s the most used as it is where the garbage is, and before I drill through to the next opening and install a bolt with a locking nut on it I’m looking for suggestions…as it’s driving me bananas fixing this every few months.

View attachment 62151
Click to expand...
Use a dab of PL in the holes, it's always worked for me.
 
oioioi said:
@mimico_polak let me know if you want me to stop by and put at set of eyes on your doorbell situation.
It's not that hard. We can we wire it to have a mechanical chime in the house
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I'm around most evenings so if you're ever in the area just shoot me a message and pop on by. I need to give you back your tools anyway.
jc100 said:
I have a battery doorbell/camera combo. Lasts for several months on a charge depending on camera sensitivity settings. Take it off with a small tool that magnetically sticks to my fridge. Charge it overnight and it’s done. No biggie and I didn’t want to run wires.
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Which one is that? I have a NEST here, but it's a powered one...not battery.
DownUnder said:
If you don't want to deal with an electrician you can also use a wired alarm power supply (dsc, Honeywell etc to power the doorbell) that plugs into an existing outlet. That way you can plug it into a garage outlet and just run some 4wire conductor etc to the doorbell and chime.
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This is potentially what I'm going to be able to do. Power from garage outlet to transformer, then a line to both a new chime and new doorbell...
 
I should be able to stop by tomorrow late afternoon.

It will be easy to get a hard wired unit installed powered by small transformer.
This way you don't have to screw around with batteries
 
oioioi said:
I should be able to stop by tomorrow late afternoon.

It will be easy to get a hard wired unit installed powered by small transformer.
This way you don't have to screw around with batteries
Click to expand...
PM sent.
 
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