Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[backmarkerducati]

Builders suppliers carry powdered pigments. I've never used them but hazard a guess matching colours will be a challenge as wet and dry will differ.

I use the powdered colourants often. The biggest problem I have is getting a perfect match between batches. No big deal if you are making a big batch of concrete but if making multiple it is a challenge to get them to match perfectly. May be obvious for something like parging. Measure, measure, measure.

The next problem is the cured colour will not match the wet colour so you either experiment or just go with it.

Final problem, even when I mix the crap out of it. There will be some variation within the mix. This actually works out well when making concrete counter-tops as it gives a more natural variation. Mix, mix, mix....

 

[Hardwrkr13]

I don’t have too much to do, about 8-10” around most of it so if I colour a small batch it’ll likely be enough to do one side so matching won’t need to be perfect.

 

[Mad Mike]

I don’t have too much to do, about 8-10” around most of it so if I colour a small batch it’ll likely be enough to do one side so matching won’t need to be perfect.

You're gonna need 3 batches.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

Kids park is coming along. Monkey bars and slides are on as is most of the lower level deck. Have walkways connected from the zipline deck to both the lookout and the big house deck.

 

[mimico_polak]

View attachment 62106
View attachment 62107
Kids park is coming along. Monkey bars and slides are on as is most of the lower level deck. Have walkways connected from the zipline deck to both the lookout and the big house deck.

Kids park? When can I come over and play!?

 

[mimico_polak]

Alright...need some advice here and I'm sure it's been posted within the last 382 pages...

1. Transformer that converts the 110VAC to DC for exterior garden lights. How do I size it? What to look for? Where to find it?
2. Using a GTAMers remote doorbell / chime as I prepare for a proper installation. Question is I need to convert the 110VAC in the garage to DC voltage for a camera (NEST) doorbell. Thinking of just utilizing a 14/3 wire, to the transformer (doorbell), drill through the wall near the door, run the DC cable (what gauge) to power the unit, and then another cable through the closet for a chime. Thoughts?
3. Scratch coat is done on the lower portion of the house at the front. Recommendations / tips / tricks to keep the brick vertically level to each other. Thinking a 2ft level to confirm the evenness (?) of the brick.

Thanks!

 

[GreyGhost]

Alright...need some advice here and I'm sure it's been posted within the last 382 pages...

1. Transformer that converts the 110VAC to DC for exterior garden lights. How do I size it? What to look for? Where to find it?
2. Using a GTAMers remote doorbell / chime as I prepare for a proper installation. Question is I need to convert the 110VAC in the garage to DC voltage for a camera (NEST) doorbell. Thinking of just utilizing a 14/3 wire, to the transformer (doorbell), drill through the wall near the door, run the DC cable (what gauge) to power the unit, and then another cable through the closet for a chime. Thoughts?
3. Scratch coat is done on the lower portion of the house at the front. Recommendations / tips / tricks to keep the brick vertically level to each other. Thinking a 2ft level to confirm the evenness (?) of the brick.

Thanks!

1. Are you reusing existing landscape lights? Pull a bulb from each fixture type to check voltage/wattage and then math. Say your bulbs add up to 60 watts, buy an 80 to 100 watt transformer and it will last forever. To be honest, they were probably AC lights/transformer. Cheaper and easier than DC but not LED friendly. If you are going LED, you want DC to avoid flicker. Process is similar, add up fixture wattage, make sure all fixtures want same voltage, add a safety factor of 50% or so and buy a driver. Meanwell if you want a good one, amazon special if you want to save money. Keep in mind that you can bang into capacity issues if you are reusing existing wiring (tree lights can be 10 watts or more, your existing wiring is probably good for 15 amps or so before voltage drop and heat start to become issues).
2. Nest camera probably wants 24 vac (that's typical output of a doorbell transformer). Afaik, you don't need a separate power wire for it.
3. 2' level is very short, especially if you are dealing with an uneven surface. Fine for rough checks but use something straight and long occasionally to make sure things are going well. You can borrow an 8' level if you want. Be careful with it. Hmm, on reading again, are you talking about level or plumb? If you are talking level, chalk some horizontal lines on the wall every few courses to keep you on track (or use your fancy laser but I would still have some chalk references).

 

[mimico_polak]

1. Are you reusing existing landscape lights? Pull a bulb from each fixture type to check voltage/wattage and then math. Say your bulbs add up to 60 watts, buy an 80 to 100 watt transformer and it will last forever. To be honest, they were probably AC lights/transformer. Cheaper and easier than DC but not LED friendly. If you are going LED, you want DC to avoid flicker. Process is similar, add up fixture wattage, make sure all fixtures want same voltage, add a safety factor of 50% or so and buy a driver. Meanwell if you want a good one, amazon special if you want to save money. Keep in mind that you can bang into capacity issues if you are reusing existing wiring (tree lights can be 10 watts or more, your existing wiring is probably good for 15 amps or so before voltage drop and heat start to become issues).
2. Nest camera probably wants 24 vac (that's typical output of a doorbell transformer). Afaik, you don't need a separate power wire for it.
3. 2' level is very short, especially if you are dealing with an uneven surface. Fine for rough checks but use something straight and long occasionally to make sure things are going well. You can borrow an 8' level if you want. Be careful with it. Hmm, on reading again, are you talking about level or plumb? If you are talking level, chalk some horizontal lines on the wall every few courses to keep you on track (or use your fancy laser but I would still have some chalk references).

1. Thanks. Will check. Those don't look LED.
2. It's a NEST camera, and I don't have a chime so I'll need to power that also. There's no power going to the door frame now, so this is the time to wire it before new frame / flashing comes in.
3. I guess plumb is what I'm looking for. The height of the brick where I'm currently looking to start is 27" high, so a 24" will work well. An 8ft level will be required to make sure the big wall is nice and even (relatively speaking) along with the column.

 

[jc100]

For landscape lights build in overcapacity. I noticed I needed a few floodlights in places after the initial addition so added them easily. I bought a kit first then needed more lights so got a transformer and wire separately and built it all again. I’ve got a few duds now so it’s nearly time for another overhaul.

 

[GreyGhost]

For landscape lights build in overcapacity. I noticed I needed a few floodlights in places after the initial addition so added them easily. I bought a kit first then needed more lights so got a transformer and wire separately and built it all again. I’ve got a few duds now so it’s nearly time for another overhaul.

I bought a Meanwell 480W 24V driver with that in mind. Plans changed. Driver is the garage for future use. 480 watts of LED is a lot of light. Driver wouldn't work that well for MP though as it is IP65 but connections need to be in a dry location and if he is mounting this where I expect, he needs both weatherproof and reasonably small/tidy. Oh kevin.

 

[backmarkerducati]

Old laptop power supplies can work well with LED lights (DC), depends on the voltage needed (and watts are not too high).

Not temperature hardened so winter can be a challenge depending on where you put it.

 

[GreyGhost]

@mimico_polak another option is borrow my 90W->12 vac transformer. Hook it up, check that all lights are working (it would suck to by something and realize that the wire was cut somewhere and you needed to start again anyway). Measure amperage in the low voltage wire and there you go.

 

[mimico_polak]

@mimico_polak another option is borrow my 90W->12 vac transformer. Hook it up, check that all lights are working (it would suck to by something and realize that the wire was cut somewhere and you needed to start again anyway). Measure amperage in the low voltage wire and there you go.

Sounds good. I'll stop by next time I'm passing through.

 

[Mad Mike]

Alright...need some advice here and I'm sure it's been posted within the last 382 pages...

1. Transformer that converts the 110VAC to DC for exterior garden lights. How do I size it? What to look for? Where to find it?
2. Using a GTAMers remote doorbell / chime as I prepare for a proper installation. Question is I need to convert the 110VAC in the garage to DC voltage for a camera (NEST) doorbell. Thinking of just utilizing a 14/3 wire, to the transformer (doorbell), drill through the wall near the door, run the DC cable (what gauge) to power the unit, and then another cable through the closet for a chime. Thoughts?
3. Scratch coat is done on the lower portion of the house at the front. Recommendations / tips / tricks to keep the brick vertically level to each other. Thinking a 2ft level to confirm the evenness (?) of the brick.

Thanks!

1. Too bad you didn't ask sooner. I just tossed 4 outdoor 12v transformers. Tell is the wattage and number of outdoor lights you're installing.
2. Your NEST doorbell runs on 24VAC, they should be what's on the 2 wires from your existing doorbell. Just remove the dumb button, attach to NEST and voila! Your chime should work, you cam should work, all you need to do is connect the cam to your phone app.
3). I'm guessing you're veneering the bottom with sliced veneer or something like z-brick? If so, just mark the walls. Snap a chalk line horizontally, then a small level and sSharpie to mark the vertically. Precision is much more important on the horizontal, I'd have a mason line on there at install time. I'd just eyeball the vertical.

 

[mimico_polak]

1. Too bad you didn't ask sooner. I just tossed 4 outdoor 12v transformers. Tell is the wattage and number of outdoor lights you're installing.
2. Your NEST doorbell runs on 24VAC, they should be what's on the 2 wires from your existing doorbell. Just remove the dumb button, attach to NEST and voila! Your chime should work, you cam should work, all you need to do is connect the cam to your phone app.
3). I'm guessing you're veneering the bottom with sliced veneer or something like z-brick? If so, just mark the walls. Snap a chalk line horizontally, then a small level and sSharpie to mark the vertically. Precision is much more important on the horizontal, I'd have a mason line on there at install time. I'd just eyeball the vertical.

Awesome thanks for the input.

#1 - too bad
#2 - currently do not have power there. So plan is to run a 110VAC from an outlet in the garage to the spot where the doorbell will be. Drill through the wall, and put the 24VDC line to the doorbell and same to chime in closet.
#3 - Yes, thin bricks being installed (where I have photos earlier in the thread of scratch coat

Thank you.

 

[GreyGhost]

Awesome thanks for the input.


#2 - currently do not have power there. So plan is to run a 110VAC from an outlet in the garage to the spot where the doorbell will be. Drill through the wall, and put the 24VDC line to the doorbell and same to chime in closet.

Thank you.

24 vac. No dc for door bells. Transformer normally gets mounted to the outside of a metal electrical box. Thats keeps 120v safe and exposed 24v terminals. Wiring from there to chime/button normally has no boxes (and barely any insulation as you can use signal or thermostat wire).

 

[mimico_polak]

24 vac. No dc for door bells. Transformer normally gets mounted to the outside of a metal electrical box. Thats keeps 120v safe and exposed 24v terminals. Wiring from there to chime/button normally has no boxes (and barely any insulation as you can use signal or thermostat wire).

Oops...my error. 24VAC not DC I think it's 18 gauge wire that's needed.

 

[oioioi]

@mimico_polak let me know if you want me to stop by and put at set of eyes on your doorbell situation.
It's not that hard. We can we wire it to have a mechanical chime in the house

 

[DownUnder]

24 vac. No dc for door bells. Transformer normally gets mounted to the outside of a metal electrical box. Thats keeps 120v safe and exposed 24v terminals. Wiring from there to chime/button normally has no boxes (and barely any insulation as you can use signal or thermostat wire).

If you don't want to deal with an electrician you can also use a wired alarm power supply (dsc, Honeywell etc to power the doorbell) that plugs into an existing outlet. That way you can plug it into a garage outlet and just run some 4wire conductor etc to the doorbell and chime.

 

[Scuba Steve]

Awesome thanks for the input.

#1 - too bad
#2 - currently do not have power there. So plan is to run a 110VAC from an outlet in the garage to the spot where the doorbell will be. Drill through the wall, and put the 24VDC line to the doorbell and same to chime in closet.
#3 - Yes, thin bricks being installed (where I have photos earlier in the thread of scratch coat

Thank you.

Found this all yours if you want it was working when removed.from my old wired landscape lights good size transformer.

Sent from the future