Mad Mike
Well-known member
That's why mine are installed in the garage. I'd never buy another Toto, money is better spent on bbqs or tires.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Sorry, can you explain this part to me "For 1/2, glue the nail strip with roof flashing sealant, then nail only where you can bury nails into rafters.".
Instead of a nail every 8" on the shingle ypu use a bunch of adhesive and a few nails where they can be buried in framing.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Maybe this helps (Iforgive my art skills)
1) Run a bead of roof cement (it comes in caulking tubes, about $5/hube) along the roof deck along the nailing line. This will stick the chingle to the roof with much fewer nails.
2) Your rafters will run perpindicular to your shingles, so you can nail thru the shingle, thru the roof deck and into the rafter. The pointy entd of the nail will be buried.
Add Eljer to the avoid list. A small plastic part broke and was impossible to find locally. I called their head office in Texas to find a local supplier and was reamed by the receptionist for having the audacity to call them for information.
Perfect, that helps. Rough estimate how many tubes I'll need for a 10x10' buildings roof (peaked)?
Depending on pitch, you are looking at roughly two squares of shingles. Assuming small caulk tubes, something under 50 linear feet per tube (depending on bead size). Running height is in the ballpark of 5". So something like 3 tubes a face should be close.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I bought a few tubes at Peavy a few weeks ago https://www.peaveymart.com/product/bj-all-weather-roof-cement-300ml/3522216
Thanks, I haven't decided on pitch yet. Still doing some research to see what I should go with. I don't like heights so I'm hoping a lesser pitch will do as the sides will be around 5.5' high and it's already on a 5' platform.
I wouldnt consider less than 3:12. I would normally use 4:12 for that. Throw a rope over the ridge and tie off. If you can't fall, height doesn't matter. Do the first few courses off a ladder so you aren't working below your feet as that sucks and feels dodgy.
4:12 it is then. Is your math good enough to say how many 4x8 sheets of sheathing I'll need? structure is 8x10' and I'll have an extra 2' overhang on the front porch area (so basically a roof for a 10x10').
More information needed. How big are the eaves? Find an online roof calculator you like. Sheathing on each face will be in the ballpark of 13'x8' so in the ballpark of three sheets for each face.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
your overhang on sides and rear should be between 6 & 12", the porch cover 2' plus the same overhang amount used on the sides and back.
Roof area depends on type. These are the 3 most practical types.
Salton is the toughest, then gable. Shed roof is simple and uses the least material.
Pick a style, pick your overhang then a roof calculator will do the material and cutting plan.
If we're going down that road avoid anything made by glacier bay the HD brand.
New rear slider (custom size), front entrance with operating side light and a large picture window. I've installed doors and windows but this time I just threw money at the project and sat back to watch. Just under 11 large.
Pretty happy with the work and will likely have them do the second floor windows next summer.
Pretty happy with the work and will likely have them do the second floor windows next summer.
Thanks, plan to build a gable. Didn't know roof calculators were available until it was mentioned here so I found one. Figured I'll make the rafters out of 2x4x12 and if I cut them in half and join them to make a 4:12 slope I should be left with good overhang on the sides in that range.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
With a 2-1/2' porch overhang, you probably want the peak to be perpendicular to the porch. and you probably need posts to support the overhang.
Not gonna lie...house looks great so far, and better each time we make progress...
Now...over here (circled in red) we wanted to have a straight line and some brick to the door. Unfortunately I am an idiot and measured wrong so now the JH siding touches just to the floor. The general direction is that JH siding should be 2" off the floor, and 8" off the surrounding grade.
Wife wanted to do a step, and you can see how it looks, so now we're removing that step, and leveling it out. I figure I'll keep a spare section or two of siding in order to replace it should it ever get damaged by moisture. There's only a risk of some snow on it during heavy winter storms when it blows there, so it's unlikely to see much rain/snow.
Thoughts? Looking at you @crankcall
Also, and this one's a weird one. In the pile of siding you see in the photos water had gotten in and the thing smells like cat pee. It doesn't look to have damaged any boards, and hasn't penetrated beyond the board so I'm just trying to dry them out as much as I can before installation.
Thoughts @crankcall?
Sorry to call you out, but this seems to be right up your alley.
Now...over here (circled in red) we wanted to have a straight line and some brick to the door. Unfortunately I am an idiot and measured wrong so now the JH siding touches just to the floor. The general direction is that JH siding should be 2" off the floor, and 8" off the surrounding grade.
Wife wanted to do a step, and you can see how it looks, so now we're removing that step, and leveling it out. I figure I'll keep a spare section or two of siding in order to replace it should it ever get damaged by moisture. There's only a risk of some snow on it during heavy winter storms when it blows there, so it's unlikely to see much rain/snow.
Thoughts? Looking at you @crankcall
Also, and this one's a weird one. In the pile of siding you see in the photos water had gotten in and the thing smells like cat pee. It doesn't look to have damaged any boards, and hasn't penetrated beyond the board so I'm just trying to dry them out as much as I can before installation.
Thoughts @crankcall?
Sorry to call you out, but this seems to be right up your alley.
What is happening with the non-symmetric octagon box on the garage? Sconce boxes look fine but the higher one should probably have a match on the left (and the wire you have coming out for probably a camera is one board lower).
As for degradation, It should be the white trim board that takes a beating. Easy enough to replace a short section of that if it starts to look beat up. I would shim it during install so it doesn't actually touch the concrete (trim a saw kerf off the bottom if needed to make the space).
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