I think you are double subtracting the protection in your head. Code is 600mm deep for pedestrian areas, you can reduce to 450 with protection. I can't find 300 anywhere.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I'd saw a cut as wide as 1 interlock brick. Lay the conduit and fill the gap with a soldier row of interlock.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Buried-wiring-Info-Sheet-final.pdf
I got it now. You can do less trench if you use tech cable or a conduit. If you use direct bury cable, it need to be deeper.
I’m not gonna lie to y’all….I’m probably gonna not code the electrical connection to the shed…
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Yup. A 1" conduit is about a buck a foot. Cheaper than digging like a badger.
MP , looks like Pops got his hands on a nail gun and maybe spent time in the Middle East? At this point a good exterior filler over the nails , or pull that trim off . Either way i would paint the whole trim piece, those nails will always show . Use a nailing pattern going forward , not random whacking . Otherwise looking good .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
LoL thanks…no, no Middle East for dad.
He just fires off however because inside ‘DAP will cover it’. I’ve seen him catch himself trying to maintain pattern. I’m not gonna admonish him at 70, he’s barely standing at the end of the day anyway.
Something like this for the repair?
Platinum Patch™ Advanced Exterior Filler | DAP Global
Platinum Patch Advanced Exterior Filler is formulated with innovative WEATHER MAX Technology for long-lasting, all weather protection.
www.dap.com
I didn't. I ran 1" polypipe into a trench dug with a claw hammer, pulled in NMW and connected to a GFI breaker. Works fine 25 years later.
At least use THHN. If someone pops a cover, it is plausibly to code.
Pad is ready for a pour…
First wall is done (and you can see the challenge and distance of digging for power as photo taken from shed pad).
First wall is done (and you can see the challenge and distance of digging for power as photo taken from shed pad).
When I poured my shed pad I didn’t use any vapour barrier under the gravel and now I get condensation inside the shed in the fall. Not good for my bikes so I am going to try and coat the pad with a sealer and insulate the shed.
Didn’t even consider that. If a new bike is going in there I’ll lay down rigid insulation beforehand. But for now this shed is only planned for garden tools and kids’ junk to get it out of the garage.
Although I’d love to put in a system like @oioioi to lift the snow blower.
Is that metal wire holding the 2X4 to the rebar?
Keep in mind that, that will either leave a mark on the concrete pad once the 2X4 is removed or will be bonded into the concrete and will rust even if you try to cut it flush with concrete.
I would maybe use some EMT straps to secure the rebar to the 2X4.
3/8" EMT Metal straps. 2 per rebar. secured in opposing direction.
Keep in mind that, that will either leave a mark on the concrete pad once the 2X4 is removed or will be bonded into the concrete and will rust even if you try to cut it flush with concrete.
I would maybe use some EMT straps to secure the rebar to the 2X4.
3/8" EMT Metal straps. 2 per rebar. secured in opposing direction.
Yes it is. I plan on pulling the wire once the pad is poured and not waiting for it to solidify.
This is only to keep it from being jostled with a wheel barrel or something hitting it.
This vapour barrier between the gravel and the concrete? I’m sure as hell not digging up the gravel now lol
I didn’t figure it out until the shed was up but there are some industrial coating’s that say they will do the trick of completely sealing the surface, and keep the moisture in the concrete, I’m not sure this is the best way but they have good reviews and it’s used in huge buildings.
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