Relax
Well-known member
Yeah, I still call tissues Kleenex, but ironically can't stand it when people say they need to Xerox something.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Yeah, I still call tissues Kleenex, but ironically can't stand it when people say they need to Xerox something.
When I started working the Xerox machine sat on an alter, not a stand. We used carbon paper for second copies. Using the machine for a personal reason required an approval from the CEO. Reloading paper looked like a church ritual.
Then there was the other copying system that used alcohol to transfer an image. You could almost get a buzz running it. Gestetner?
I always heard those ones as ditto. It looks like Gestetner made them too. Ran on Methyl alcohol and isopropanol. Not great chemicals to be using in a small poorly ventilated copy room.
Who knows a decent place to buy ductwork (ideally near barrie)? Before I patch this giant hole in my return I want to upgrade part of the return so I don't choke the furnace. Currently have an 8" round return from the basement connected up to the plenum which then drops through an 8x30 drop leg. I will upgrade basement return to ~8x18 and run it along the floor so it goes straight the air filter. That gives the furnace an extra 144 sq in of return to go along with the current 240. Furnace installer was a lazy SOB so they blanked off part of filter so they didn't need to make a new boot (current boot is 14x24 in a 16x27 filter opening). This will fix that problem too. I was going to make the entire duct myself (then I could make it slightly larger) but it will be far simpler for me to use stock size bits and assemble them.
EDIT:
Ideally I would have ~1200 cfm through furnace. Current return drop flows maybe 800.
EDIT:
Ideally I would have ~1200 cfm through furnace. Current return drop flows maybe 800.
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
Getting into the garage:
Come thru the wall horizontally with a 1" hole.
Cut a short piece of 3/4" PVC conduit so it protrudes enough to slide into the 90 line box (first pic) and at least flush with the wall inside the house. Tap it into the hole -- it will be a tight fit, it protects against wire chafing and critters.
-- The alternate solution is to use BX cable, no conduit. be sure to drill at 60 degrees up/down when going between basement and house -- bx in 10AWG isn't very bendy. Don't forget the red devils on the BX ends.
Inside the Garage.
You'll want to mount a utility box on the wall at least 5' (1.5M) above the floor, this will house your thermostat (assuming it's in a convenient location). Measure and cut 3/4" conduit to connect the 90-line box to the utility box . You'll need a threaded connector&nut at one end, and some PVC glue. It's easier to fish your wire thru the conduit before connecting and gluing it together.
I don't believe you need armor/conduit from the utility box (at 5') to the heater. You'll have a few feet of PVC left over, might as well use it.
Connect the heater to the utility box and wire in your stat and you're done.
Notes:
Be sure to retain PVC conduit with the u shaped saddles shown below, no more than 36" between fixed points.
You're supposed to seal between the conduit and wire inside the house using plumber's putty for gas proofing.
Attachments
I think you are OK as long as the wire runs between/through the joists and not under them in the basement. The surface mount requires protection below 5' (technically 1.5m), but it sounds like you are above this in the garage. I would still cover it just for looks (NMSC on the outside of a wall looks hack) and extra safety, as an exmaple this is what I did for my dryer (also 10/3) on a concrete block wall, I used some aluminum U channel I had laying around to cover it down to the NMSC box connector (make sure the box has a clamp/connector). I also bonded it to the box (ground off the anodizing for the ground wire as it is an insulator). Wire is strapped to the wall first (you can see the wire strap just sticking out a little) and this is over top of the wire.... I did it this way as I had it around, they make solutions of course. ESA was impressed....
Another option just to be extra safe on the garage side is to run the garage part as armoured cable. I did my entire garage this way (120v) as everything is surface mount. NMSC from the panel through the garage wall directly into the back of a box, I then exit the box with armoured cable, still kept everything above 5 feet. Could do the same with conduit of course on the garage side, just more work.
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
Th think Gestetner made them, They were mimeograph machines, most people called them "Ditto" machines.
sburns
Well-known member
Noble? Seem to be located everywhere.
Well that's a lesson you won't forget.
I was shaking my head a poor guy last weekend laying on his back under his car in the driveway when it was low single digits and pouring. His garage door was open and the garage was so full of crap he couldn't even pull the car in a few feet to get out of the rain.
So I'm not the only one. Last one to go on and I see the arrow. &*%^@**
My bil tried to replace a faucet connected with soft copper and compression fittings. I told him what to do and to be gentle. No shutoffs under sink. He crushed the copper and buggered the fitting. Had to call an emergency plumber to finish install so he could turn water back on to house. Expensive lesson in how not to plumb.
Once I got the old ones out, the only tool needed was a wrench to tighten the supply tubes to the fittings. The flex tubes are connected directly to the main block. No expensive copper tubing. $100 Moen.
I was going to use the old spray hose on the leaky basement set but the fitting is different. A replacement spray for the basement isn't likely to be off the shelf so I'll cut the hoses and put in a coupling.
That was my last Moen install. Snap Snap Click Click done. Great design. Very happy with it.
(offsets the POS Artika sink fiasco)
Magnets corrode on my delta kitchen faucet. On the upside, they come with a tool and apparently lifetime free magnets. Last change broke the tool and used up my last magnet. Hopefully getting them to send me more wont be an issue (previous owner bought the faucet so I dont know when or where).
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