Mad Mike
Well-known member
If I were you I'd rip it all out and insulate.
Not because it's necessary, but because we haven't had enough serious reno pics here lately. Maybe do a KevShow for us on DIY spray foaming?
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Not because it's necessary, but because we haven't had enough serious reno pics here lately. Maybe do a KevShow for us on DIY spray foaming?
I've heard ramen noodles do a good job.
In its natural state the alloy of aluminum wiring of old was not mechanically great when it came to holding its form under a screw causing these connection to become loose--not good. The old alloy was 1350 from memory, I believe new aluminum wiring (used for service etc.) is an 8XXX alloy. Aluminum wiring was da-bomb in the 60s and 70s due to the price of copper...
Even worse than K&T is when someone messes with aluminum (and causes galvanic corrosion). The devices have to be rated for aluminum and as receptacles and lights are changed over the years ones that are installed are copper only and the corrosion, heat and potentially fire happens at these connections. Then, even worse, someone in their infinite wisdom connects copper wire to the aluminum wire with a regular marrette! It can be interconnected with special sealed connectors but I bet few DIYers even know what galvanic corrosion is nevermind the need to do something about it.... Odds are 50 to 60 year old wiring will have had someone muck with it. Insurance of course hates it for all these reasons.
For anyone wondering on this front, buying a house, previous owner was named Kevin, etc. none are guarantees but.... look at the construction date (or major reno) of the house 60s to mid 70s raises a flag. Wires will be 12 gauge for 15A as aluminum is less conductive than copper. Old style 60C aluminum NMSC sheath is often (not always) green. Best option, open a box and and look at conductor colour but keep in mind K&T copper was often 100% tinned so it will also look silver/grey (need to know if it is K&T or not). I have never seen aluminum K&T (different eras) but I make no guarantees on that...
It agree likely rim joists are not insulated, specially if the basement itself is not cold. First I would cut a few exploratory holes to take a look... before ripping it out along the length.
That thin cantilevered ceramic looks it's just waitting to chip off. Never seen that kind of treatment before.
there's about 100 houses around here all with the same not so great door sills. I had a conversation with the original estimator that this looked delicate to work over , I was told it was a non issue , so we'll have to see what he feels this problem is worth to solve.
Oh well , now to figure out where to source 3/4x4 T&G oak flooring to match the rest of the house. The off white carpets and the dog do not get along well. Oak floor is that dark red toned , almost mahogany color from the 80's that is now extinct apparently . It may end up being a custom color order , but I dont have a sample thats not nailed to the floor ......
Oh well , now to figure out where to source 3/4x4 T&G oak flooring to match the rest of the house. The off white carpets and the dog do not get along well. Oak floor is that dark red toned , almost mahogany color from the 80's that is now extinct apparently . It may end up being a custom color order , but I dont have a sample thats not nailed to the floor ......
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Naw... that might not have come across as I intended. I meant KevShow in a nice way, kinda like Holmes on Homes -- where you come in and reno Kev's work. Maybe I should have said the MP on Kev show?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
A
I've used a couple of places for custom milling to match existing floors. A few years back I used the Floor Shop in Etobicoke to match sizes, profiles, and finish on 100sq' of 4" oak planks I needed to repair some water damage in the kitchen of my parent's house - perfect match. Acadian Flooring in Markham used to do custom milling as well as the flooring I was matching was 6 and 8' strips only -- I had them do 200sq of 3/8" x 1.5" maple.
We have used 'AA Flooring' in Etobicoke with good success, so I'd give them a shot as an option.
Relax
Well-known member
I thought I'd get a straight answer from Garage Journal, but no. I have a 240V, 5000W electric heater that I'd like to install myself in my attached garage. I ran the numbers and electric makes sense for now, so I'm thinking of adding a new dedicated circuit with a 30A breaker and 10 AWG cable with 3 wires total. Does the electric code for Ontario/Mississauga allow me to run one continuous cable from the breaker in my unfinished basement up through the basement ceiling joists, through the garage wall (either the exposed concrete, or the drywalled portion - see pic), along the outside of the drywalled garage wall, and into the heater hanging 8' up? Which type of cable would I need to do this, or what would I need to add/change to make it pass? This is the garage/basement shared wall from the garage side (garage floor is a few feet below the basement ceiling):
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
You can run PEX pipes touching parallel, but you should not cross them in contact with one another (or directly thru drilled holes in joists). PEX changes as much as 1/4" per 10 feet from contracted (cold) to expanded (hot). Use PEX retainers to stabilize pipes when running along or thru framing to reduce abrasion and clicking. When crossing pipes over each other, a small section of pipe foam sleeve will do.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Assuming your panel is less than 100' from the heater, you would use 10/2 wire (usually red PVC sheath, 1 red, 1 black for hot + a bare wire for ground). If you run the wire in an exposed area where the cable could get snagged or damaged, think armored (bx) or conduit at least up to the thermostat.
There may be a debate about using PVC as an inside (vs EMT) conduit. My detached garage passed ESA inspection with PVC running a 60A circuit into the panel, and PVC running along the drywall to a 30A circuit for my heater and another to my welders.
I am not an electrician. Your plan sounds reasonable. Be mindful of physical protection if you run the cable low. I suspect there will be something in code about that. I'll see what I can find later. How long is the run? I would use NM (romex) except for the physical protection question which may push you to conduit or bx.
daught
Well-known member
Can you get from the basement to the back of the garage wall? Fish the cable up the wall from the basement then run it on the surface up high. As long as you stay above 1.5m and it's not exposed to mechanical damage you are good with NMD. Like MM said you don't need 10/3, 10/2 suffices.
PS funny how this cable has so many names. I never work with it so I am used to calling what they called it in school and the book. Backmarkerducati uses its acronym, good one. This usually raises an eyebrow at HD and most suppliers. So I tried to play it cool at nedco. I walk in and ask for romex. Dude looks at me like WTF? I tell him it's the common resi wire. He's like oooh, you mean loomex?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
PS funny how this cable has so many names. I never work with it so I am used to calling what they called it in school and the book. Backmarkerducati uses its acronym, good one. This usually raises an eyebrow at HD and most suppliers. So I tried to play it cool at nedco. I walk in and ask for romex. Dude looks at me like WTF? I tell him it's the common resi wire. He's like oooh, you mean loomex?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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Relax
Well-known member
It's about 30' from the panel to the garage wall, then about 10' up from there and over to the heater, accounting for some slack.
As much as I'd like to run everything behind the drywall, there's plywood under it, so difficult to find the fire breaks that I might need to drill through.
So if run on the outside of the wall, it only needs armor or conduit up to 1.5 m above the floor? What's considered mechanical damage?
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