Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 264 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

nobbie48 said:
Did the contractor sub the work out?

I'm told door system companies have warehouses full of stuff ready to install but can't get qualified sub trades to provide the labour.
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This is usually the way it goes. When we had our patio installed, the guy installing it actually was a direct contractor to the company (Miranda Windows / Vinyl something something) that did a bang up job.

I've already asked my dad 'how's your health and how willing are you to spend some time on a scaffold next year.
 
backmarkerducati said:
They (AFCI) were originally required in bedrooms more or less like you noted, also things like lamp cords, etc. that get tightly folded over when a dresser is pushed against the wall. The original ones were actually AFCI and looked for series faults only. The newer CAFI (combination arc fault interrupter) looks for both series faults and parallel/shorts but ones that do not reach the breaker amperage, they are the ones required now AFAIK but AFCI became a generic term (might be important as actual AFCI only old stock may still be kicking around???), they will usually have different colour test buttons IME. Many argue that it is the breaker manufactures that are the conspiracy behind them to increase usage to make more money... The first AFCIs I used had a slight buzzing sound, CAFI ones now do not seem to.

Unless the latest Ontario code changed, they are required for all 20A or less 120V circuits except...smoke alarms, fridge and furnace as they do not want a trip causing a bigger issue.... I guess the NMSC feeding these is magic compared to all the other NMSC in the house.... some inconsistencies no doubt.

Many electricians/people hate them, IME it is mostly craft issues. In my limited experience:
  • I have yet to have a power tool, including table saw, lawn mower, even my 120v welder or appliance trip one. (I am a SquareD QO guy, can't can't vouch for others).
  • I connected my boiler and circulator pump just to "see" (to be truthful by mistake :) ), ran fine no trips but I switched it back of course...
  • The only time I have had a trip I actually found a damaged piece of NMSC that was leaking current between hot and ground but far less than an amp. (A real PITA to troubleshoot this one, I did get lifted, but there was an actual fault and the CAFI protected the cabling not just the devices), a regular breaker totally ignored the fault. They do act like a poormans GFCI (a ground fault will eventually trip one but at higher current than 5ma, so don't use one as a GFCI!)
  • IMO backstabbing outlets and loose marettes are the biggest cause of trips, maybe not day one but as the springs wear out, etc.. Use the screws on outlets, tight connections everywhere! I have also "heard" problems with using them on split duplex but I do not do that so I cannot say for sure.
When I did my rewire I pulled the permit a month before they became required to save money. My rewire got stalled for many reasons and I decided to eventually just go with them as per newer code, what is a grand or two compared to protecting the family.... did not have to.
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I suspect that an AFCI would trip if an older sewing machine got plugged in. They use a primitive carbon rod contact for speed control. I have trouble fault locating cable problems because my equipment needs to see the fault. When it does, the circuit trips. I've had to use a 12 volt battery to power a 12 / 120 volt inverter.

My garage door opener and lights were tapped off the GFCI breaker and every once in a while it trips, leaving me in the dark. I sprayed the switch receptacle cover near the door with glow in the dark paint so I can stumble myself in the right direction when it happens. Then to the basement and reset.

The excuse I heard for the AFCIs was extension cords run under bedroom carpets. Walk on them enough and they theoretically wear through.

Extension cords don't last as long as Romex. My 60 year old NMD-3 is still fine and flexible when occasionally moved. I replaced a piece of cabtire on my bandsaw when it sounded like a candy cane cracking.

The 80 year old knob and tube in my daughter's house was in good shape except at high use light fixtures.

Manufacturers spend millions inventing things we lived without for ages. They need to find a way to make purchases mandatory to recoup their R&D costs.

What would save more lives? Millions spent on things we lived without before or the millions spent on medical care? The government says both.
 
nobbie48 said:
I suspect that an AFCI would trip if an older sewing machine got plugged in. They use a primitive carbon rod contact for speed control. I have trouble fault locating cable problems because my equipment needs to see the fault. When it does, the circuit trips. I've had to use a 12 volt battery to power a 12 / 120 volt inverter.

My garage door opener and lights were tapped off the GFCI breaker and every once in a while it trips, leaving me in the dark. I sprayed the switch receptacle cover near the door with glow in the dark paint so I can stumble myself in the right direction when it happens. Then to the basement and reset.

The excuse I heard for the AFCIs was extension cords run under bedroom carpets. Walk on them enough and they theoretically wear through.

Extension cords don't last as long as Romex. My 60 year old NMD-3 is still fine and flexible when occasionally moved. I replaced a piece of cabtire on my bandsaw when it sounded like a candy cane cracking.

The 80 year old knob and tube in my daughter's house was in good shape except at high use light fixtures.

Manufacturers spend millions inventing things we lived without for ages. They need to find a way to make purchases mandatory to recoup their R&D costs.

What would save more lives? Millions spent on things we lived without before or the millions spent on medical care? The government says both.
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My mother's very old Singer sewing machine from the dark ages does not trip the CAFI. Knee throttle not foot, one of the first ones with a motor (basically it is a manual machine with a motor bolted to the side to drive it).
***
My rewire was knob and tube full replacement, 1941 build. The panel and multiple subpanels were a mess, meter in the basement type thing. The kitchen light wiring had no insulation left, common as they get over wattage bulbs (only place this was a problem for me). The really bad stuff I found out when doing the rewire was buried aluminum splices tied into the K&T and pretty much problems wherever someone had tied any NMSC to the K&T. IMO K&T was pretty good except for overloaded by too many devices (not enough circuits) or where someone messed with it. No ground but you can work around with GFCI outlets... Insurance hates K&T but IMO it is mostly because they assume someone has "added" to it like mine was. All of mine is dead now.
 
Image1669836293.896172.jpg
This is the door , custom sized, fiberglass door with stained finish different Color’s inside and out , balanced glass transom window , wood trim inside . Yes I probably could have bought the door for less , but this is what we wanted .
@GreyGhost , how did you know the roof over that door entry is copper ?? Lol

It was not subbed out , part of going with the company I did was they have their own install team so I am dealing with one company . The installer did come back last night and fox the caulking issues and clean up . Now the damaged ceramic is for his boss to address . I’m holding a $6300 final payment so …..


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crankcall said:
View attachment 58604
This is the door , custom sized, fiberglass door with stained finish different Color’s inside and out , balanced glass transom window , wood trim inside . Yes I probably could have bought the door for less , but this is what we wanted .
@GreyGhost , how did you know the roof over that door entry is copper ?? Lol

It was not subbed out , part of going with the company I did was they have their own install team so I am dealing with one company . The installer did come back last night and fox the caulking issues and clean up . Now the damaged ceramic is for his boss to address . I’m holding a $6300 final payment so …..


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Now that the door is new isn't it time for new tile

Sent from the future
 
Scuba Steve said:
Now that the door is new isn't it time for new tile

Sent from the future
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And carriage light. I have a few almost identical and they have weathered with time and not in a good way. Black oxidized and plastic windows around the bottom ring yellowed. Main windows are glass and look fine. I was contemplating dropping to repaint but there is no reasonable solution to yellowed plastic windows.
 
Guy that sold me my granite countertop is making a sill and riser to replace the tile , grey/ black american granite , sandblasted to be non slip. should look ok .
The coachlight is pretty butt ugly , I think its going to get a spray can job , glass in the main lamp , the plastic bezels in ythe bottom will be glass shortly. Found a local stained glass group online that will make me some small pieces . We are in a row of 5 townhomes and all have the same fixtures , I could change to something modern , but then i'm "that guy"
 
Trying to get wires to the new thermostat location. Really weird readings with the stud finder. Wall sounds hollow but shows as a wide stud. Check original arch plans. wtf. Opening width is narrower than shown on plans. My money is on decorative columns there and somebody boxed them in. Probably didn't know whether they were structural so they left them. Round columns would explain the strange readings.

I can't find pics of house from before third owner so I'm not sure what other oddities I will find. Fwiw, architectural plans approved by the municipality have signficant differences to constructed building (windows made into doors and vice versa, loft made into bedroom, kitchen layout entirely different, etc). Some of those changes could have been after the fact but I really doubt it.
 
backmarkerducati said:
My mother's very old Singer sewing machine from the dark ages does not trip the CAFI. Knee throttle not foot, one of the first ones with a motor (basically it is a manual machine with a motor bolted to the side to drive it).
***
My rewire was knob and tube full replacement, 1941 build. The panel and multiple subpanels were a mess, meter in the basement type thing. The kitchen light wiring had no insulation left, common as they get over wattage bulbs (only place this was a problem for me). The really bad stuff I found out when doing the rewire was buried aluminum splices tied into the K&T and pretty much problems wherever someone had tied any NMSC to the K&T. IMO K&T was pretty good except for overloaded by too many devices (not enough circuits) or where someone messed with it. No ground but you can work around with GFCI outlets... Insurance hates K&T but IMO it is mostly because they assume someone has "added" to it like mine was. All of mine is dead now.
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I've dealt with KT only once, it was in an old cabin. 3 circuits and paneled was made for easy replacement.

My current house was 100% Alcan when I got here, eith the basement wired with extension and lamp cord. Took a few years but I got it all out. The only problems I found with the AL were loose connections at receptacles.
 
crankcall said:
View attachment 58604
This is the door , custom sized, fiberglass door with stained finish different Color’s inside and out , balanced glass transom window , wood trim inside . Yes I probably could have bought the door for less , but this is what we wanted .
@GreyGhost , how did you know the roof over that door entry is copper ?? Lol

It was not subbed out , part of going with the company I did was they have their own install team so I am dealing with one company . The installer did come back last night and fox the caulking issues and clean up . Now the damaged ceramic is for his boss to address . I’m holding a $6300 final payment so …..


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Nice door. That overhanging, un supported tile is a break waiting to happen.
 
Went through the house with a thermal camera and found about a 2-3C difference between the external and internal walls. Less than I expected.

I need to do a better job to find WHERE this cold air is getting in as a full gut job May not be required.

One item I notice is the floor in the living room / dining room is very cold. This is above the basement. So there may be an air leak in there somewhere.

Is it worth ripping up the basement ceiling and insulating the floor?
 
mimico_polak said:
Went through the house with a thermal camera and found about a 2-3C difference between the external and internal walls. Less than I expected.

I need to do a better job to find WHERE this cold air is getting in as a full gut job May not be required.

One item I notice is the floor in the living room / dining room is very cold. This is above the basement. So there may be an air leak in there somewhere.

Is it worth ripping up the basement ceiling and insulating the floor?
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Air sealing is more important than insulation.

High probability your bedroom floor problem is uninsulated rim joist. Cut edge of basement ceiling back a foot and spray foam between the joists above the wall. Air seal and insulation in one step.
 
GreyGhost said:
Air sealing is more important than insulation.

High probability your bedroom floor problem is uninsulated rim joist. Cut edge of basement ceiling back a foot and spray foam between the joists above the wall. Air seal and insulation in one step.
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So you’re saying along the entire length?
 
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