Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 268 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

nobbie48 said:
I got a free Nuheat cable for my daughter when I was servicing their product. I had to buy the thermostat and the distributor praised Nuheat for their deliveries and service.

IIRC Nuheat is now owned by Nvent which used to be Pentair which used to be Tyco. If you have any questions get used to being shunted across the planet.

We typically tested slab cables on site at 500 volts although the factory did a hipot at double voltage plus 1000. The industry standard on site tends to be 20 megohms but infinity is preferred.

If the ground fault system is doing its job, slightly off readings don't worry me. If it starts tripping the GFI, fault location with infrared is normally simple. Got a spare tile?
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I still think problem is controller. IR doesn't show any obvious issues. I do have a spare tile but am not really interested in needing to use it. If the floor heats (which happens about 20% of the time the thermostat tries to engage), it doesn't trip anything and heats until temp is satisfied. Thermostat not connecting line neutral to wire is the first problem to fix.

I'm actually a little surprised they didn't go with 240v. They upsized to 12 gauge on a 15a circuit which was nice to see. Labeled it as "panel" which was stupid. Assuming heat wire price doesn't vary much with voltage, it would have been cheaper for them to run 14 GA with 220 at 6A.
 
GreyGhost said:
I still think problem is controller. IR doesn't show any obvious issues. I do have a spare tile but am not really interested in needing to use it. If the floor heats (which happens about 20% of the time the thermostat tries to engage), it doesn't trip anything and heats until temp is satisfied. Thermostat not connecting line neutral to wire is the first problem to fix.

I'm actually a little surprised they didn't go with 240v. They upsized to 12 gauge on a 15a circuit which was nice to see. Labeled it as "panel" which was stupid. Assuming heat wire price doesn't vary much with voltage, it would have been cheaper for them to run 14 GA with 220 at 6A.
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If you have access to an infrared camera take pictures of the floor as it heats up. That gives you a record of the layout for future reference. The pattern should show consistent heat.

Electricians learn panel labeling from the same people that teach doctors how to write prescriptions.
 
nobbie48 said:
If you have access to an infrared camera take pictures of the floor as it heats up. That gives you a record of the layout for future reference. The pattern should show consistent heat.

Electricians learn panel labeling from the same people that teach doctors how to write prescriptions.
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The pattern is saved in my head and reasonably repetitive/intuitive. A missing line or section would be obvious. There is one ~3" long section with lower heat in the pattern. I didn't see the install before tile but my guess is this will be a joint in the wire as heat is consistent before and after this point.
 
GreyGhost said:
The pattern is saved in my head and reasonably repetitive/intuitive. A missing line or section would be obvious. There is one ~3" long section with lower heat in the pattern. I didn't see the install before tile but my guess is this will be a joint in the wire as heat is consistent before and after this point.
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The 3 feet is odd but if it ain't broke.....

A cold spot could also be cable depth or tile related. Nuheat made a decent product. Another manufacturer was upset that I said their product had idiosyncrasies, the kindest word I could come up with.
 
nobbie48 said:
The problem with the Moen and just about everything that comes with a coiled up plastic hose is that the hose takes a set during packaging and shipping and ties itself into a knot under the sink. Because of the special fittings one can't upgrade to a better hose.
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Actually my Moen experience was really "snap snap click click" There was no hose grief.
 
Planning a visit to Strassburger windows to pick out the glass for our new entrance way sidelights. And maybe get in insight into our picture window.
Right now our front window is made of three idendetical sections. Each with a large window on top and a small window below. The outer lower windows open awning style with the center lower fixed.
He quote all three bottoms opening. When we said we didn't think we needed the middle to open and he asked if we wanted it one large tall pane instead. Hmmmm..
Anyway, you KW folk have any first hand knowledge with windows from these guys???
 
Any clever HVAC guys? My ancient wall mounted direct vent natural gas heater is on the fritz. Normally when it comes on there is a mild whump sound as it ignites. Now when it is running it WHUMP! and then again not too long after. Wife heard it in the house and thought it was a car door slam. She looked out heard it again and swears she saw a flash from the exhaust vent. (this is the garage heater)
I've turned it off and I'm waiting on the service guy. Hope it's minor a new 25K BTU unit at HD was about $4K.
 
timtune said:
Any clever HVAC guys? My ancient wall mounted direct vent natural gas heater is on the fritz. Normally when it comes on there is a mild whump sound as it ignites. Now when it is running it WHUMP! and then again not too long after. Wife heard it in the house and thought it was a car door slam. She looked out heard it again and swears she saw a flash from the exhaust vent. (this is the garage heater)
I've turned it off and I'm waiting on the service guy. Hope it's minor a new 25K BTU unit at HD was about $4K.
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Obviously easier to diagnose in person. Sounds like delayed ignition allowing gas to build up. Why the delay is very hard to diagnose remotely as there could be many causes. The second whump after running is more concerning to me. It shouldnt be possible to have an explosion when already burning unless that is a secondary area that just lit.
 
Yes it does this after it's already running. Somethings amiss. Almost like it's stalling and then relighting.
 
timtune said:
Yes it does this after it's already running. Somethings amiss. Almost like it's stalling and then relighting.
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That's possible. Really strange for natural gas burner to go out though. Plugged jet? Cracked pipe/manifold/heat exchanger? Dirty flame sensor killing gas and then attempting relight? Not too hard in person to follow operation sequence and narrow down issue.
 
Great! Pop over there's coffee on and cold pops in the fridge.
 
timtune said:
Great! Pop over there's coffee on and cold pops in the fridge.
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Buried right now and dont have wifes car back yet so she has stolen mine. It's a hell of a long walk to your house.

You dont need me anyway. You're competent at diagnostics. Take a cover plate off and find the burner controller as a start. That will give you an idea of how smart or dumb your heater is and what it is looking for.
 
Hahaha. Burner control? Off/pilot/on that's it.
 
Not sure where to find that sensor.
 
timtune said:
Not sure where to find that sensor.
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Normally there is one near the pilot light to make sure it is lit. Often another in the main flame to make sure the big burner is lit. Wires from sensor back to gas valve. Flame sensors use thermoelectric generators to convert heat to voltage to hold the valve open.
 
timtune said:
"thermodiscs"??
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Not really. Those are normally bimetal or fused break on temp rise.

Normally looks like this (or bent or fatter).

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1.-A-1316-scaled.jpg



You could have thermodiscs or thermofuses to protect against rollout (fire where it isn't supposed to be) or excessive exhaust temp in the circuit as well. They just break a control wire and drop the gas valve.
 
Furnace kid was by. He thinks it's the thermopile (his word - looked like lower pic) but neither of us thought mine was particularly serviceable. My burner compartment would be a bear to open up to get to it. Furnace would need to be completely disassembled to acess the many screws.

I think I'm looking at new.
 
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