Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 270 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

timtune said:
It is likely I could pull the burner apart and change the thermopile. That could well be the problem, however the burner does not look maintenance friendly and I wouldn't be sure I had everything sealed properly.
Again I think this all goes away by throwing some cash at it.
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It is worth the time to at least look up the make and model on YouTube etc. and see how hard it is to change. Most just go between the gas valve (which is accessible, it has to be) and the burners. Sometime all the cash you need to throw is $14..... the rest can always go to motorcycle related items.

Of course if you are replacing it for other reasons that is different, also check if you can get any rebates.... Otherwise it is like scrapping a motorcycle because all it needs is new spark plugs and it will take a hour to change them.
 
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Drinking some polish limoncello and finishing off the pool robot mini restoration. As suspected by a kind gtam member that donated the project, Salt water had gotten into the electronics compartment. One motor seized, bearings facked, some salt and rust throughout. Ultrasonic clean, rub with alcohol, new bearings, add some grease to gearboxes and reassemble and we are ready for pool season. It doesnt appear that gasket kit is available and there are no obvious leak points so it may not last. Worth a shot though to avoid a $700 motor replacement.
 
If not gasket kit , I’ve had very good luck with the gasket maker in a tube at CTC to seal stuff up


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crankcall said:
If not gasket kit , I’ve had very good luck with the gasket maker in a tube at CTC to seal stuff up


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I used grease to help the seals/ slow water movement. Not ideal but should work for this application. Most seals were o-rings (some in complicated tracks ). Shaft seals had worn the shafts down a but and may have been the source of intrusion but I'm not building up shafts for this project.
 
Update ; front door guy finally got back to me about the broken tile on the sill , discount will be provided on final door cost . I fix myself , which is just fine .
Reasonable conclusion and I’m happy .

Now the Missus wants to change all the kitchen cupboard handles . At least I’ll be near the beer fridge .


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crankcall said:
Update ; front door guy finally got back to me about the broken tile on the sill , discount will be provided on final door cost . I fix myself , which is just fine .
Reasonable conclusion and I’m happy .

Now the Missus wants to change all the kitchen cupboard handles . At least I’ll be near the beer fridge .


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Utilizing the same holes or do you need to drill/patch holes?
 
backmarkerducati said:
I think you are OK as long as the wire runs between/through the joists and not under them in the basement. The surface mount requires protection below 5' (technically 1.5m), but it sounds like you are above this in the garage. I would still cover it just for looks (NMSC on the outside of a wall looks hack) and extra safety, as an exmaple this is what I did for my dryer (also 10/3) on a concrete block wall, I used some aluminum U channel I had laying around to cover it down to the NMSC box connector (make sure the box has a clamp/connector). I also bonded it to the box (ground off the anodizing for the ground wire as it is an insulator). Wire is strapped to the wall first (you can see the wire strap just sticking out a little) and this is over top of the wire.... I did it this way as I had it around, they make solutions of course. ESA was impressed....

View attachment 58622

Another option just to be extra safe on the garage side is to run the garage part as armoured cable. I did my entire garage this way (120v) as everything is surface mount. NMSC from the panel through the garage wall directly into the back of a box, I then exit the box with armoured cable, still kept everything above 5 feet. Could do the same with conduit of course on the garage side, just more work.
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I found 100' of 10/3 BX surprisingly cheap affordable, so I was thinking of using this for the entire circuit - one run from the breaker to a box on the garage side of the wall, and another run from the box up to the heater. But it says "for dry locations only" - isn't an attached garage considered a damp location?

EDIT: It's AC90, not sure of that's the same as BX?

 
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New guest bathroom quartz countertop is installed.

Goddamn drain is 1" off from the old sink... Need to make a trip to Home Hardware tomorrow.

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After amazon finally stopped screwing the pooch and gave me thermostat wire, new thermostat is in. Setup for multi-stage heat, one stage cool and humidifier for now. When I add heat pump I will reconfigure. I tried to have all wires connected behind stat so any future wiring was in basement but nest detected the wires even though they didnt go anywhere. Oh well, not a big deal to change in the future.

Running as proper multi stage is nice (before had one stage thermostat so low for 10 minute then high for a couple then off). With geofencing turning down furnace when we are out, hopefully it saves enough gas to pay for itself.
 
Relax said:
I found 100' of 10/3 BX surprisingly cheap affordable, so I was thinking of using this for the entire circuit - one run from the breaker to a box on the garage side of the wall, and another run from the box up to the heater. But it says "for dry locations only" - isn't an attached garage considered a damp location?
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@mimico_polak has my book with answers. He might be able to tell you what it says.
 
Got things braced finally. Notice all the shims they put in above the one joist. There's a dozen on the other side of it.
0QZqdRlm.jpg

Next is to level and properly hang the ceiling, then drop the new lights in. Final step will be to purchase new tile.
 
Baggsy said:
Got things braced finally. Notice all the shims they put in above the one joist. There's a dozen on the other side of it.
0QZqdRlm.jpg

Next is to level and properly hang the ceiling, then drop the new lights in. Final step will be to purchase new tile.
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How much do you care about headroom/style? Vector tiles buy you a little height and mostly hide the grid in exchange for lots more money.
 
GreyGhost said:
How much do you care about headroom/style? Vector tiles buy you a little height and mostly hide the grid in exchange for lots more money.
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Grid is already in, so I'm just going to "fix" it. Will probably go with sound resistant over water resistant 2'x4' tiles. I'll just cut some in half for the lights. The other option was to paint some drywall, which is what my dad did, back when it was cheap. No dust and if it gets dirty, you can just repaint it.
 
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