Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 271 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Only time I've ever dropped a bike is when I worked on one when I was overtired so I know not to work on them now when I'm tired/hungry.
Shoulda kept that in mind when I was learning how to clean our water softener this week. Youtube vid showed flow-plug comes out then clean fitting. Well mine wasn't coming out so I figured maybe mine just doesn't come out easy so began cleaning fitting by running water through it to check for blockages and sure enough plug pops right out and down the drain. Wasn't thinking that one through. No local source for one found but amazon has one marked up from $6 to $38 so that was a $40 lesson learned.

Made 4 bird houses for around the house and put them up in the trees. Had plenty of scrap wood and it makes me feel better in February when I see the birds out there. Good lesson for the kiddos also.
 
I made some bird houses with the kids last year but the little ******* House Wrens fill them with sticks so no birds can actually use them.
 
DownUnder said:
I made some bird houses with the kids last year but the little ******* House Wrens fill them with sticks so no birds can actually use them.
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Attach the bottom plate with a hinge on each side. If you need to clean out the box, pull the pin on one hinge and the bottom swings open. Ready for more %^&*ery in seconds.
 
Relax said:
I found 100' of 10/3 BX surprisingly cheap affordable, so I was thinking of using this for the entire circuit - one run from the breaker to a box on the garage side of the wall, and another run from the box up to the heater. But it says "for dry locations only" - isn't an attached garage considered a damp location?

EDIT: It's AC90, not sure of that's the same as BX?

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AFAIK an attached garage is not considered a damp location, mine is completely wired with regular armoured cable (AC90) and no GFCI (not required in garages in Canada but it is for 120v circuits in the US NEC), fully ESA inspected and passed...

The cable should be fine but make sure to use the proper insulator (anti short) bushings and box connectors rated for the AC (just a couple of common mistakes people make using AC). Depending on the route it may be a bit of a PITA to run through the basement ceiling and it can be a PITA in general if you don't use it often (I actually like working with it....).
 
I want to run a hard line to the gazebo outside. But Kevin had decided to concrete the entire area so no real way to do it without cutting the concrete pad, laying cable, and then redoing the pad.

I'll figure something out, it's only 15-20ft.
 
mimico_polak said:
I want to run a hard line to the gazebo outside. But Kevin had decided to concrete the entire area so no real way to do it without cutting the concrete pad, laying cable, and then redoing the pad.

I'll figure something out, it's only 15-20ft.
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I thought you were a professional mole? Directional drill/ram a piece of conduit/water through pipe as a lance to get wire under slab. Alternatively, saw out a strip out of slab to access below. Make sure you bury cable deep enough. Either concrete slot back closed or used a strip of interlock as a feature.
 
GreyGhost said:
I thought you were a professional mole? Directional drill/ram a piece of conduit/water through pipe as a lance to get wire under slab. Alternatively, saw out a strip out of slab to access below. Make sure you bury cable deep enough. Either concrete slot back closed or used a strip of interlock as a feature.
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I am! But my machines are a TAD bigger than I need here.

One thing I'll give Kevin...the man is damn good with concrete. Not a single crack around the entire house.
 
mimico_polak said:
I am! But my machines are a TAD bigger than I need here.

One thing I'll give Kevin...the man is damn good with concrete. Not a single crack around the entire house.
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Hey saw your other post about winter activities, wanted to ask, your work on that plumbing drain is holding up well. No more issues with water seeping?
 
GreyGhost said:
I thought you were a professional mole? Directional drill/ram a piece of conduit/water through pipe as a lance to get wire under slab. Alternatively, saw out a strip out of slab to access below. Make sure you bury cable deep enough. Either concrete slot back closed or used a strip of interlock as a feature.
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I've wondered about micro tunneling using a pressure washer. If anyone wants to try I'm scrapping a pressure washer that leaks like a sieve.
 
sburns said:
Hey saw your other post about winter activities, wanted to ask, your work on that plumbing drain is holding up well. No more issues with water seeping?
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Zero issues. I never cleaned up 100% but I’ve got some time over Christmas to do so.
 
nobbie48 said:
I bought a few sets of hinges and there was a couple of bucks difference between HD and Lowes. HD was cheaper IIRC. Richelieu doesn't sell direct without a connection.
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We spend a @$%^ load with them monthly. Involved with more than just hardware. They have been buying up companies for years
 
Plumbing will be the death of me...

Riobel says to caulk the drain with silicone in a three different spots to make seal. Ok I do that and it has a slight leak when I left the sink full for of water for an hour. I go online, basically no YouTube video I can find mentions anything about caulk - maybe a bead of plumber putty, but besides that the rubber gaskets, that the Riobel has mind you, is enough for every other drain to form a perfect seal. Not Riobel apparently...

Eventually find a video of some eastern European contractor, who basically caulks the sh*t out of it and says here's what you gotta do to not get a call back. Now we're talking. So now I've pulled the whole thing apart, used twice as much silicone, and we'll see how she goes in the morning.
 
crankcall said:
$8.99 at Lowes , $4.20 direct from Richileau. Same part number . That means a lot when you need 42 of them .


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Whatever you do don't get the handles that everyone thinks they must have now. The ones that are a SS rod with two short rods as standoffs. Sure they look good but handles that catch on your clothes, as they do are a total pain. Not to mention they're hard on cabinet hinges when you're yanking the doors that are caught in your pockets or belt loops.
That was the number one prerequisite for our new kitchen hardware.
 
No we put in a fairly smooth brushed stainless pull , nothing to catch .
I did all the hinges last month so they are all soft close . Guy from Blum the hinge manuf owed me a favour so they were very reasonable


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timtune said:
Whatever you do don't get the handles that everyone thinks they must have now. The ones that are a SS rod with two short rods as standoffs. Sure they look good but handles that catch on your clothes, as they do are a total pain. Not to mention they're hard on cabinet hinges when you're yanking the doors that are caught in your pockets or belt loops.
That was the number one prerequisite for our new kitchen hardware.
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Lever type door handles are great for people with arthritis. Also great for people that want to learn how to sew pockets back on.
 
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