Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 273 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

There's been a used Ove toilet in the shop at the ReStore for a while. It has a remote.
I don't need another remote.
I don't need nor want a toilet remote. Control panel on the side of the seat is perfect.

My first experience was in South Korea away from tourist hell. Obviously, no english at all on the control. Press a button and hope for the best. Quickly figured out which buttons I didn't want to press again.
The remote isn't that bad. It's meant to be attached to the wall beside the toilet, but we'd have to make the space.

Seat controls (if you're using them, make sure you hit the right one):
WrzRqlbm.jpg


Front and Top of remote:
wHmlJTym.jpg
idSfK5wm.jpg


Toilet itself:
8Ieh8X9m.jpg


Crud. Now I want to get rid of that yellow wallpaper that the original owner put on. More work.
 
There's been a used Ove toilet in the shop at the ReStore for a while. It has a remote.
I don't need another remote.
I don't need nor want a toilet remote. Control panel on the side of the seat is perfect.

My first experience was in South Korea away from tourist hell. Obviously, no english at all on the control. Press a button and hope for the best. Quickly figured out which buttons I didn't want to press again.
The remote isn't that bad. It's meant to be attached to the wall beside the toilet, but we'd have to make the space.

Seat controls (if you're using them, make sure you hit the right one):
WrzRqlbm.jpg


Front and Top of remote:
wHmlJTym.jpg
idSfK5wm.jpg


Toilet itself:
8Ieh8X9m.jpg


Crud. Now I want to get rid of that yellow wallpaper that the original owner put on. More work.
That's a lot of options. The controller on my hotel toilet in Korea looked something like this. Not a lot of help if you don't understand the writing. At least some use pictures.

5366161161_bbacab78c2_z.jpg
 
I've always wanted a bidet but have never had a bathroom where there was an outlet nearby for power. Cold does not sound enjoyable...

In my master bath the I've got a wall with a GFIC outlet, a 60" vanity, and then the toilet all in a row. Could I run BX from the outlet through the inside of the vanity, and put an outlet through the side of the vanity beside the toilet? Would I have to use those outdoor plastic boxes? It would be also nice to have a second outlet inside the vanity to keep sh*t like razors charging.
 
I've always wanted a bidet but have never had a bathroom where there was an outlet nearby for power. Cold does not sound enjoyable...

In my master bath the I've got a wall with a GFIC outlet, a 60" vanity, and then the toilet all in a row. Could I run BX from the outlet through the inside of the vanity, and put an outlet through the side of the vanity beside the toilet? Would I have to use those outdoor plastic boxes? It would be also nice to have a second outlet inside the vanity to keep sh*t like razors charging.
Not sure if you need bx in the cabinet. As long as the wire is secured if it was high at the back it is reasonably protected from physical damage. Romex is probably fine but I'm not sure if code calls this a wet or damp location (which means romex and bx both have code issues).

Outlet inside the cabinet is a no go for code. Look up appliance garage in the code for how to do it legally. Tl: dr closing door has to kill power to outlet so that things cant be powered in a closed cabinet.
 
Anybody got a recommendation for keeping cold out that’s coming in through the chimney? Seems like we’re losing a lot of heat through there and it’s very cold around it.
 
Anybody got a recommendation for keeping cold out that’s coming in through the chimney? Seems like we’re losing a lot of heat through there and it’s very cold around it.
Damper closed? House at negative pressure? Do you use the chimney?

Edit:

My old house had a chimney for a wood stove in the basement but never had a wood stove installed. I put a plastic bag in the chimney and filled it with low expansion foam. That gave me a ~10" long insulated plug but if anyone wanted it out, they cut the foam and it falls out as bag kept it from sticking to liner.
 
I don't need nor want a toilet remote. Control panel on the side of the seat is perfect.

My first experience was in South Korea away from tourist hell. Obviously, no english at all on the control. Press a button and hope for the best. Quickly figured out which buttons I didn't want to press again.

That's a lot of options. The controller on my hotel toilet in Korea looked something like this. Not a lot of help if you don't understand the writing. At least some use pictures.

5366161161_bbacab78c2_z.jpg
Where's the 와우 button?
 
Damper closed? House at negative pressure? Do you use the chimney?

Edit:

My old house had a chimney for a wood stove in the basement but never had a wood stove installed. I put a plastic bag in the chimney and filled it with low expansion foam. That gave me a ~10" long insulated plug but if anyone wanted it out, they cut the foam and it falls out as bag kept it from sticking to liner.
How do you know if your house is negative pressure? Symptons?

My chimmey damper doesn't close very well. Also the rod you use to close it goes through it creating a bit of hole.
I cut some 2" foam board to put infront of the fireplace.
 
How do you know if your house is negative pressure? Symptons?

My chimmey damper doesn't close very well. Also the rod you use to close it goes through it creating a bit of hole.
I cut some 2" foam board to put infront of the fireplace.
If you have a manometer (ideally two channel) you can measure it. Otherwise you can try things like turning an exterior door knob and if the door pops in you are negative pressure or crack a window and see if air is rushing in. Try a couple different facades as wind can affect the tests. You can also burn a bit of paper just under the chimney and see if smoke is pouring in or getting sucked out. Not too big a fire or it will create a draft in the chimney.
 
Damper closed? House at negative pressure? Do you use the chimney?

Edit:

My old house had a chimney for a wood stove in the basement but never had a wood stove installed. I put a plastic bag in the chimney and filled it with low expansion foam. That gave me a ~10" long insulated plug but if anyone wanted it out, they cut the foam and it falls out as bag kept it from sticking to liner.
Damper closed and the house is a sieve. I’ve never heard of doing the expanding foam in a bag trick.

Chimney balloons are an expensive thing.
 
If you have a manometer (ideally two channel) you can measure it. Otherwise you can try things like turning an exterior door knob and if the door pops in you are negative pressure or crack a window and see if air is rushing in. Try a couple different facades as wind can affect the tests. You can also burn a bit of paper just under the chimney and see if smoke is pouring in or getting sucked out. Not too big a fire or it will create a draft in the chimney.
Thanks for the info. Why is this a bad thing?
 
Thanks for the info. Why is this a bad thing?
It can cause issues with back drafting (gas water heater, medium efficiency furnace or fireplace) which pulls CO into the house. Also, it cam be expensive. If you furnace is blowing air out of your house and the weakest link is a crappy window install in your bedroom, that cold air drawn in has a long path that absorbs a lot of heat from your house. If that is the situation, you are better to install makeup air near the furnace so cold air comes in and then gets sent out right away.
 
I have been looking for the push/pull knobs (push to open if door opens away from you, pull with a finger to open toward you) but they seem to be hard to find.



I installed a Brinks push-pull knob on my garage entry door about 10 years ago and can't imagine not having it. I was bummed when it stopped working this year, but a quick email to Brinks and they sent me a brand new one under their lifetime warranty! So easy to open the door with greasy hands or arms full of groceries, just push the knob with my elbow or hip.
 
Anybody got a recommendation for keeping cold out that’s coming in through the chimney? Seems like we’re losing a lot of heat through there and it’s very cold around it.

Light a fire? I have two gas fireplaces now, but miss the single wood-burning fireplace in my old house. Ironically, the old place was in a subdivision with no trees for firewood, and the new place is surrounded.
 
A conventional wood burning fireplace may be among the most inefficient devices ever created . Pretty to look at . If you want somewhat better , move the damper to the chimney top , chain comes down through chimney and it seals very well at the top . It’s a DIY thing in nice weather.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
A conventional wood burning fireplace may be among the most inefficient devices ever created . Pretty to look at . If you want somewhat better , move the damper to the chimney top , chain comes down through chimney and it seals very well at the top . It’s a DIY thing in nice weather.


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Nothing like having two inefficient fireplaces with the flues a few inches apart. The smoke from the rec room gets sucked down the other flue into the living room flue.
 
Light 2 fires? Sorry, couldn't resist.
That just means twice as much cold air is being drawn in somewhere else.

My parents have a proper Fisher wood stove. They burn it when they can to save on propane. It is well planned with vents from the stove room to the main floor to allow heat to circulate in a power outage and a return air duct to the furnace to spread the heat when the power is on. Once it is up to temp you really need to throttle it back to keep the house temp under control.
 
That just means twice as much cold air is being drawn in somewhere else.

My parents have a proper Fisher wood stove. They burn it when they can to save on propane. It is well planned with vents from the stove room to the main floor to allow heat to circulate in a power outage and a return air duct to the furnace to spread the heat when the power is on. Once it is up to temp you really need to throttle it back to keep the house temp under control.
I've always been fascinated by the Sterling engine fans that sit on top of a stove, creating air circulation. Apparently not a lot of horsepower but still something I really need (Not).
 
I've always been fascinated by the Sterling engine fans that sit on top of a stove, creating air circulation. Apparently not a lot of horsepower but still something I really need (Not).
Buddy has one of those at his cottage...that place gets warm as eff.

Something like this...

I have a fireplace (?) at the cottage that's currently not installed yet. I'll have one of those little engines on it once we fire it up.

That just means twice as much cold air is being drawn in somewhere else.

My parents have a proper Fisher wood stove. They burn it when they can to save on propane. It is well planned with vents from the stove room to the main floor to allow heat to circulate in a power outage and a return air duct to the furnace to spread the heat when the power is on. Once it is up to temp you really need to throttle it back to keep the house temp under control.

One of the issues is that the fireplace on the main floor, somehow still manages to get smoke into the one in the basement. So there's a leak somewhere b/w the fireplaces. But I'm not planning on relining both fireplaces. I'd rather be rid of them both.

As for our place, it's cold as hell around the fireplaces but apparently blocking them off completely risks milden and moisture issues so some type of breathing needs to be maintained in the flue.

Not sure how to resolve this issue yet, but maybe throw some balloon up there with a small PVC pipe just to maintain some breathing b/w the house/exterior. Good thought exercise for the weekend.
 

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