They can sleep in the tent. Adults have earned a hard roof.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Yes...yes I do. It'll join the stack of LEGOs and wait until they're grown up before I put it together.
Has anyone used this program?
www.nrcan.gc.ca
I want to figure out if my plan (insulation on the EXTERIOR of the house) is covered...but don't feel like spending $700 for an audit to tell me NO.
Making a plan this weekend for the renovation and I'll be reaching out to them next week.
Canada Greener Homes Loan
www.nrcan.gc.ca
I want to figure out if my plan (insulation on the EXTERIOR of the house) is covered...but don't feel like spending $700 for an audit to tell me NO.
Making a plan this weekend for the renovation and I'll be reaching out to them next week.
It looks like they don't specify where it has to go just what percentage you are planning to do. I don't love their funding model as it may have some unintended consequences (required to insulate garage wall, issues with hydro mast, etc). I have no idea how flexible/reasonable the inspectors are. To me, it would make sense to get to 100% grant money at a level below 100% coverage (eg >90% coverage equals 100% money). To mimimize cost of project as its written, it will be cheaper to skip over difficult sections and just fill in the field where cost/sq ft is far lower.Has anyone used this program?
Canada Greener Homes Loan
I want to figure out if my plan (insulation on the EXTERIOR of the house) is covered...but don't feel like spending $700 for an audit to tell me NO.
Making a plan this weekend for the renovation and I'll be reaching out to them next week.
My plan is easy...put on insulation on the exterior of the brick, strap it, and install siding.
The difficult parts are:
- how to deal with the electrical mast
- remove the soffits to get the insulation / siding up as high as possible
- height issue (most likely will just rent/buy scaffold) instead of renting a EWP
Other option is the MESSY and painful one...interior insulation vs exterior.
EDIT:
Option #2
- remove drywall
- install frame
- insulate (either foam or BATT)
- rewire to make it better
- re-install drywall
- mudding
- trim
- painting
But it's done from the inside.
Strapping is where the wording of the grant can get messy and knowledge from an inspector is valuable. Do you use z-bar or wood strapping? Or are you planning on a solid layer of insulation and then strapping over top with long fasteners?
Outside is going to look a little weird as you will have super deep windows. Make sure you have a good detail for the window sills. If you are dropping all the soffit anyway, now is the time to add soffit lights/xmas light receptacles, lighted house number, etc. Cost as part of the project will be minimal as you have easy access.
This is my only concern...how deep the windows will look if I add insulation on the exterior. It'll look ridiculously deep and offset.
As for soffits, yes you are 100% correct and I plan on doing that as well.
Can you set it up so that you can sit inside on the window ledge and have a light above for reading?
Maybe…haven’t thought of that exercise.
Spray foam the whole outside then paint it white and call it decorator stucco
Sent from the future
I took option 2, moving a few eletrical outlets as I was going. I went with FG and 2X4s.
Since we had a spare bedroom I was able to do it playing musical bedrooms. It was definately worth it. i ended upwith slightly wider sills inside and a loss of about 2" along outside walls.
How messy was it? Wife is adamant that this will ruin our marriage if I start.
If you want an omelette youhave to break a few eggs. If you do a room at a time and seal doors etc it isn't that bad.
You can either spend time cleaning or setting up barriers.
If hes insulating from the outside, the seat would be outside. New windows could fix that issue an bring the space inside but that is a huge added expense.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
FTFY
Depending on how old your windows are , I’d look at those maybe before gutting walls , we changed windows in a previous house , 70s wood framed crap for new and it moved the temp up in each room about 4-5 deg in winter .
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Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Windows are less than 10 years old.
Going DIY and depending on your skills and time:
Day 1: Empty room and allow for protection of surfaces that are not to be damaged ie walls, lights and carpet. Allow for repainting the room.
Day 2: Seal room, open window to clear dust and go at the removal part. You need to do some head scratching ahead of time as to locating your drywall cuts.
Day 3: Re frame walls for insulation. I used 2X4s as the loss of 2" of space was OK. Think about what's going back in. Cutting 2" off a dresser to make it fit is messy. Re-set wiring, add a bit plus any computer wiring etc. Pack in insulation and add vapour barrier.
Day 4: Up goes the drywall and tape. I use setting type to speed up the process.
Day 5: Mess around with trim and window sill while sanding and filling the drywall.
Drywall is simple but not. If anything messes with your timetable it will be amateur drywall, adding more mud then sanding it off. It can go on for days.
The hard part is getting a drywaller in for a couple of sheets of board. DW also comes in different flavours, sound resistant, dent resistant, water, fire etc. Kids temper tantrum room?
Working day 6: After DW is ready for paint. Make it broom clean or better. Prime, do trim
Working day 7: Replace trim, paint, cover plates, hang drapes (If they still fit) etc
Working day 8: Spit and polish, move back in.
Caveats
E&OE
If you work for Metrolinx triple the above.
The above is for doing one room at a time. A drywaller will be more cost effective if you do multiple rooms at a time. That will be offset by divorce costs.
After room is pseudo sealed, if doing dusty work, put a fannin the window blowing out. Slight negative pressurization on room keeps dust from spreading.
If he is hanging his own drywall, keep pieces as large as possible, dont worry about scrap. Amateur jobs that avoid scrap are normally a taping nightmare. For this situation, vertical sheets probably make the most sense. Cut off tapered edge for inside corners. If you do horizontal and can get a big enough sheet in, try to use one sheet for the whole width of the room. Then you have no untapered butt joints. They are the worst to tape well. Cut off tapered edge at bottom as it makes baseboard annoying. Sheets around windows should be c-shaped, dont end a sheet beside the window, it will be guaranteed to split at the corner. I hate rotozips and rarely use them. They make a huge mess. Mark and handcut boxes. The extra time to cut will be paid back many times over in less cleaning.
For trim, cope the baseboard. It looks a million times better and isnt hard. If you are using a power saw inside, use a dust collector.
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