Crap...maybe I should float my deck from the house....it's connected
EDIT: I asked one of my buddies about how he does his drawings...considering how advance he is in drafting I'm surprised his answer to me was 'graph paper and pencil'.
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
EDIT: I asked one of my buddies about how he does his drawings...considering how advance he is in drafting I'm surprised his answer to me was 'graph paper and pencil'.
Always float the deck if it is first story, so many advantages and very few downsides, none if done correctly. Not for a multi floor decks....
Read the rules for your municipality. Normally, if it is not attached to dwelling, below a a certain height AGL (flower boxes can fix this), no roof, maximum footprint, minimum setback and a couple other things, no permit required.Crap...maybe I should float my deck from the house....it's connected
EDIT: I asked one of my buddies about how he does his drawings...considering how advance he is in drafting I'm surprised his answer to me was 'graph paper and pencil'.
The deck I built on the last house was built to be code compliant if it came to it but there was no permit. It drives costs hugely while providing very very little benefit for my project. Footing costs would have soared (I took pictures of tape measure in all holes), they need a complete drawing prior to issuing permit (part of the project got designed when I got there physically as there was slope in multiple directions so it was easier to see how to solve it safely once there were hard points in place), I had a ~60 sq ft roof held up by 6-6x6's with a boxed 2x8 ring beam (mainly for looks but they probably would have wanted a structural signoff even though should have been fine structurally with 25% of the wood) and on and on.
I would next time for sure. Proper base prep under the pyramids and it should barely move.
EDIT:
For this one, as I was building a roof and shade sail, if I ever got subjected to a building inspection, I don't think I could get a pass. They don't like structures that can fly that are not anchored down. For all practical purposes, it was big and heavy enough that it would not move.
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In my area, South Frontenac, it doesn't matter. Decks are specifically called out for permits, independent of size. So you can build a 10 X 10 outbuilding without a permit, but a 5 X 5 deck requires a permit. As you mentioned, contact your municipality.
Cigol mentality (Backwards logic) So build a 100 SF outbuilding with huge windows right at your back door.
When Do I Need a Building Permit?
Under the Building Code Act, a building permit is required for the construction and/or demolition of a new building, an addition, or material alteration of any building or structure. The following is a list of common projects that require or do not require a building permit.
www.toronto.ca
For T.O.
When is a Building Permit Not Required?
The following are examples of work which do not require a building permit and are not subject to the provisions of the building code. However, please note that this list is not exhaustive and judgment should be used depending on the situation and circumstances associated with the project. Even if a building permit is not required, compliance with the Zoning Bylaw is required.- An uncovered platform (e.g. deck) provided:
- its finished deck level is not more than 60 cm (24 inches) above the adjacent finished grade; and/or
- it does not form part of an exit required under the building code; and
- complies with the Zoning Bylaw.
- Installing a skylight in an existing building provided:
- the building is a house or small building (3 storeys or less) and
- the installation does not require the removal of more than one rafter, joist, or other similar structural member (with the exception of a truss);
- Re-cladding of a house or small building (3 storeys or less) with non-combustible material other than brick or stone veneer;
- Adding or replacing insulation;
- The replacement of windows or doors provided:
- there is no change in the location or size of the window and/or door;
- the structural support for the opening (i.e. lintel) is not affected; and
- a new exit is not created;
- Replacing a furnace or boiler in a house;
- The installation of additional cooling systems, gas fireplaces, air cleaners, in-line humidifiers, or hot water tanks in a house;
- Repairing and replacing plumbing fixtures;
- Replacing existing roofing material provided no structural work is required;
- Finishing a basement of a house, if:
- the work does not include structural or material alterations;
- no additional dwelling unit(s) is (are) created (i.e. a second unit); and
- the work does not include the installation of new plumbing;
- Undertaking waterproofing repairs to a basement;
- Installation of cabinetry and millwork.
- Plastic Sheet Covered Accessory Structures (i.e. snow canopies, driveway tents, automotive canopy) do not require a building permit if installed on or after October 15th and are removed on or before April 15th. Compliance with the Zoning Bylaw is required.
- Constructing a retaining wall that is on private property, not accessible to the public and/or where the height is less than 1 metre in height at any location.
- A building permit is not required to install a sump pump.
With no permit, just never get around to putting the roof on your outbuilding. Sorry, I got busy, my shed is still under construction.
It's GTAM that told me that my 11x13 Yardistry Gazebo is a big sail and will be taken away in a big wind storm. I didn't believe it...until I saw the strain on the anchors into the concrete pad.
So far hasn't moved an inch, but I may replace the anchors with beefier ones than those that came with the gazebo.
In comparison to @nobbie48's list, here's is Mississauga's:
Note the last point, Windows. Means that I need a permit even if I enlarge the window vertically down even though I don't touch the lentil. I'd like to enlarge 1-2 windows, and have a door (effectively a large window) cut out into another entrance into the back yard.
Note the last point, Windows. Means that I need a permit even if I enlarge the window vertically down even though I don't touch the lentil. I'd like to enlarge 1-2 windows, and have a door (effectively a large window) cut out into another entrance into the back yard.
I'm glad it hasn't moved an inch because it wouldn't stop there. It is either in place or flying across the neighbourhood. There's not much in between. What size anchors are you using now? I wouldn't trust tapcons, but almost any expanding anchor should be sufficient (I normally use 1/2" or 5/8" just because).
At my parents, I had a tarp garage with a 12" cinder block on every leg. A windstorm picked up everything high enough to clear the bike inside and the shed flew 150' with the ~600 lbs of cinder blocks attached. Obviously the landing went very poorly.
So you got a permit for the gazebo before? Be careful when the inspector comes around (and on your site plan). If it comes down to it, what is the footprint of the posts? Most municipalities don't include the eaves in shed dimensions, maybe you can make a similar argument for the gazebo.
The permit isn't required for the gazebo as it falls within the space. It's not calculated to the outside dimension, but to the usable dimension (which is within the posts)...so I just squeezed by.
Now it may be a little too close to the fence...but that's another issue. And Kevin's little detour on the fence won't help me either.
My daughter has a new neighbour that is creating drainage issues re the eaves trough bit. Hamilton says once you have captured rain water it is your responsibility. You can't let it flow onto someone else's property.
IIRC Colorado says you can't capture rain water.
I don't like expanding anchors near the edge of a slab. Epoxy self mixing stuff works great but fast. Don't drill a bunch of holes and fill them expecting to shove threaded rod in a few minutes later. The self mixing nozzles work great but get a spare or two.
What counts as captured? Every roof by definition redirects rainwater closer to a property line. Eavestrough does the same thing. How far it flows is affected by how fast it falls. If it's falling fast enough, my redirected contribution doesn't even matter. As for your daughter, if the neighbour doesn't want to play along, I would put in a linear drywell to catch the water before it hurt me. Some digging and a few yards of gravel and the water will magically disappear.
sburns
Well-known member
Well I would say if any rain water collected and re-direct should be your responsibility. I could easily turn my down spout towards my neighbours driveway as it's close enough to my house. But that wouldn't be very neighbourly (or proper anyway) so the downspout shoots towards the front lawn.
In turn if someone else is directing water or anything onto my property I would see that as a no-no and take it up with them.
So again, what counts? Your roof concentrates rain and most direct it closer to a neighbours property line. Is that ok? Should you be required to install eavestrough to further concentrate and control the flow direction? Should you not be allowed eavestrough as it further concentrates the flow and makes it harder for the ground to absorb it? I don't think there is a universal simple or correct answer beyond "don't be an ass" but I've never seen that in a by-law.
Our subdivision required eavestroughs into dry wells. Ours can deal with a shower but any level of "rain" and it is overwhelmed. What did that help? When it is raining hard, the system gives up and discharges all water right beside the house. All that happened was someone was happy with their rubber stamp and building costs were driven up by many thousand dollars.
sburns
Well-known member
I'm not sure what you mean by the above in bold. I've only lived from single detached homes this is where my experience comes from. So my house and eve's will not impact my neighbour unless I am careless or do something on purpose. Now maybe what you are implying has something to do with semi's or row townhomes, where I can agree with you.
Roof takes water that would have landed in the center of your lot and moves it closer to a property line. Some move the water forward and back so that should have minimal effect on your neighbour. Most have at least part of the roof moving the water left and right so it ends up <1m from the property line.
sburns
Well-known member
Yes I understand what you are saying now. But anyone taking the water down from the eve's should not be pointing the water further closer to the property line. Send it forward or back. I've got a long 8ft extension out front which I want to replace with something a bit longer. Out the back it's about 15 ft. This way the water is far enough away from eveything and possible underground trickle back.
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