Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 198 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

sburns said:
Yes I understand what you are saying now. But anyone taking the water down from the eve's should not be pointing the water further closer to the property line. Send it forward or back. I've got a long 8ft extension out front which I want to replace with something a bit longer. Out the back it's about 15 ft. This way the water is far enough away from eveything and possible underground trickle back.
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The ontario building code says... 9.14.6.1. surface Drainage

(1) The building shall be located or the building site graded so that water will not accumulate at or near the building and will not adversely affect adjacent properties.

If your neighbor's water is flowing onto your property, you can call the building department and they will assess the situation. My experience is they will ask the offender to re-direct water to the front or back of the property whenever possible. If there has been a grade change (usually filling in of a swale), they could order the homeowner to restore the grade.

When they came to my place they had grade maps from 1969 in hand, they asked my neighbor to reconnect downspouts to the underground drain AND restore the swale they filled in on their property. They haven't done the work yet -- the order is 7 years old.
 
Mad Mike said:
......... When they came to my place they had grade maps from 1969 in hand, they asked my neighbor to reconnect downspouts to the underground drain AND restore the swale they filled in on their property. They haven't done the work yet -- the order is 7 years old.
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Curious...if the neighbour sells their house, does that order carry over to the new owners? Does it show someplace that prospective buyers can see it?
 
Mad Mike said:
The ontario building code says... 9.14.6.1. surface Drainage

(1) The building shall be located or the building site graded so that water will not accumulate at or near the building and will not adversely affect adjacent properties.

If your neighbor's water is flowing onto your property, you can call the building department and they will assess the situation. My experience is they will ask the offender to re-direct water to the front or back of the property whenever possible. If there has been a grade change (usually filling in of a swale), they could order the homeowner to restore the grade.

When they came to my place they had grade maps from 1969 in hand, they asked my neighbor to reconnect downspouts to the underground drain AND restore the swale they filled in on their property. They haven't done the work yet -- the order is 7 years old.
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The problem is a shared driveway and the new neighbour relocated the old down spouts to where the discharge ends up running onto my daughter's sidewalk and driveway. Being a slip hazard if it freezes it means a liability for my daughter but also the city if it ends up in the city sidewalk.

You can be fined for not taking care of your sidewalk but you can't be sued over what happens on the city property so the city is on top of it. The street has a natural slope.

For some reason the new neighbour fixed something that wasn't broken and broke it while fixing it.
 
hdsomeday said:
Curious...if the neighbour sells their house, does that order carry over to the new owners? Does it show someplace that prospective buyers can see it?
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I've heard of condo owners not being able to get a decent offer on their unit because there was a work order against the common element.
 
hdsomeday said:
Curious...if the neighbour sells their house, does that order carry over to the new owners? Does it show someplace that prospective buyers can see it?
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Yes it does, I believe the order is against the property. I'll be sure to let the selling realtor know too, that makes them responsible for disclosure.
 
Mad Mike said:
Yes it does, I believe the order is against the property. I'll be sure to let the selling realtor know too, that makes them responsible for disclosure.
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We lost a deal years ago because of this.

Ongoing dispute b/w the sellers on the neighbour. Neighbour was an old lawyer with nothing but time on his hands, and suing for use of the seller's property as he was using it for 20 years or so before they bought it. Small parcel on which he made a garden and claimed squatters rights.

Seller - we knew, and we disclosed it to the realtor
Realtor - they never told me, I'm just a simple realtor what do I know about property rights

Fun times....382k for a tri-plex across the street from Humber College...mother effers.
 
GreyGhost said:
Bare copper isnt allowed anymore or it just wasnt sexy enough for you?
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My electrician did the same thing, bright green cable running from the panel to the water line. Beautiful work @backmarkerducati, really nice.

A new topic for spring (of course)...

Where do you guys get your soil from? Big Yellow Bag is about $190/bag...

Pretty sure my trailer will only handle 0.5Yd3 per load, maybe more if it's dry but I'd rather not snap it by overloading it.

I'm OK with a truck showing up and dumping it on my driveway and then hand bombing it to the back yard.

Recommendations?
 
mimico_polak said:
My electrician did the same thing, bright green cable running from the panel to the water line. Beautiful work @backmarkerducati, really nice.

A new topic for spring (of course)...

Where do you guys get your soil from? Big Yellow Bag is about $190/bag...

Pretty sure my trailer will only handle 0.5Yd3 per load, maybe more if it's dry but I'd rather not snap it by overloading it.

I'm OK with a truck showing up and dumping it on my driveway and then hand bombing it to the back yard.

Recommendations?
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Bag is the most expensive way to buy dirt (small bags followed by big bag). I use the trailer for a yard. I dont drive far or fast. If you can convince some neighbours to join, a truck can be cost effective. Problem is delivery fee is $xxx per dump so if you can get two neighbours in on it, you have cut you delivery fee to 30%. In our area, if you are buying a couple yards, delivery costs more than the product.
 
GreyGhost said:
Bag is the most expensive way to buy dirt (small bags followed by big bag). I use the trailer for a yard. I dont drive far or fast. If you can convince some neighbours to join, a truck can be cost effective. Problem is delivery fee is $xxx per dump so if you can get two neighbours in on it, you have cut you delivery fee to 30%. In our area, if you are buying a couple yards, delivery costs more than the product.
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I think my cousin has access to a work F150 that's rated for stupid heavy weight. He dumps 1Yrd3 into it with no issue...but it's tough to use for others.

I'll have to ask him when he gets around to it this year. And I'm 99% sure I asked this on this thread before but the 4x8 folding trailer will NOT support a full yard of soil if it's wet. Rated for 2,000lbs.
 
mimico_polak said:
I think my cousin has access to a work F150 that's rated for stupid heavy weight. He dumps 1Yrd3 into it with no issue...but it's tough to use for others.

I'll have to ask him when he gets around to it this year. And I'm 99% sure I asked this on this thread before but the 4x8 folding trailer will NOT support a full yard of soil if it's wet. Rated for 2,000lbs.
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By the numbers, a yard of topsoil should be 1-3K. I have picked up topsoil before on the HF trailer. In my case, I still had some suspension left. I have had heavier loads on that trailer and it behaved well.
 
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