Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 199 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

My ridgeline brings ½ yard of triple mix home every spring. Half yard (at a time) of anything.
The f150 always brought a full yard back.
Did you know two half yards are more expensive than 1 full yard? I've tried to prepay, never works. (could fit that in the "two for" thread)
 
You haven't seen stupid wiring unless you've worked on an old Bell phone system.

I just ran a phone receptacle to a relocated computer and figuring the colour matches was a challenge. The house was wired in early 1960 and it looks like they thought the place was going to be a bookie joint.

I added some IKEA LEDs under the kitchen counter and that went better except the leads were too long. Solder shrinks took care of that.

Now I've got a hardwood floor to sand. :(
 
Anybody know if I can install siding ON TOP of existing brick? I've got the double brick wall and want to insulate the wall (and change our crappy grey).

Plan is to install rigid insulation on top of the brick, put in the strips, and install siding on top of that.
 
mimico_polak said:
Anybody know if I can install siding ON TOP of existing brick? I've got the double brick wall and want to insulate the wall (and change our crappy grey).

Plan is to install rigid insulation on top of the brick, put in the strips, and install siding on top of that.
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You decided against ripping out the interior walls and insulating?
(was hoping you would do it as I am facing a similar situation.)
 
Short answer yes , but the type of siding dictates the install. Wood needs air flow . Cement siding ( which is ALL I would use right now is easier ) James Hardie cement siding , looks like wood , does not rot, fire resistant. No bugs


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sburns said:
You decided against ripping out the interior walls and insulating?
(was hoping you would do it as I am facing a similar situation.)
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I think his plan is both. That gets him up to 6" of good insulation without losing 2" inside the rooms.

EDIT:
MP, check your setbacks. Increasing the house by 3" may make you out of compliance.
 
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By doing just the outside only you can take advantage of the thermal mass of the brick and block walls on the inside.

Insulating from the outside is a common approach in other places in the world with similar construction. Just need to make sure you use the right materials....
 
sburns said:
You decided against ripping out the interior walls and insulating?
(was hoping you would do it as I am facing a similar situation.)
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Yes still planning on that. But we hate the brick, and having a 2x4 versus 2x6 on the inside we're still undecided on.

Basically, if we go with the 2x6 interior then we don't really need the insulation on the outside of the house, so will just install siding. If we go 2x4 then I'd probably want to go and insulate the exterior.

@crankcall We are currently leaning toward vinyl siding. Wood would be nice, but not sure which option is best. My biggest question is HOW to install the insulation to the wall....PL glue? bolts? Tapcons? Any issues with the brick breathing?

Thought about a house wrap first, but then read that the brick should have some air gap in order to allow it to breathe.

Thanks @backmarkerducati for that, will have to do considerable research.

And I get to rent a Genie boom again.

A few of my main questions:
1. how do deal with the high voltage cable mast on the side of the house? Does it need to be removed and then re-installed by an electrician? I know that you can't get near it without proper protection
2. Best way to mate the insulation to the brick (don't think I'll need plywood on the brick + insulation + strapping + siding)
3. How to best deal with cables on the outside of the house?
4. Where to get materials as HD is very expensive

Thanks everyone.
 
mimico_polak said:
Yes still planning on that. But we hate the brick, and having a 2x4 versus 2x6 on the inside we're still undecided on.

Basically, if we go with the 2x6 interior then we don't really need the insulation on the outside of the house, so will just install siding. If we go 2x4 then I'd probably want to go and insulate the exterior.

@crankcall We are currently leaning toward vinyl siding. Wood would be nice, but not sure which option is best. My biggest question is HOW to install the insulation to the wall....PL glue? bolts? Tapcons? Any issues with the brick breathing?

Thought about a house wrap first, but then read that the brick should have some air gap in order to allow it to breathe.

Thanks @backmarkerducati for that, will have to do considerable research.

And I get to rent a Genie boom again.

A few of my main questions:
1. how do deal with the high voltage cable mast on the side of the house? Does it need to be removed and then re-installed by an electrician? I know that you can't get near it without proper protection
2. Best way to mate the insulation to the brick (don't think I'll need plywood on the brick + insulation + strapping + siding)
3. How to best deal with cables on the outside of the house?
4. Where to get materials as HD is very expensive

Thanks everyone.
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I like CC's plan of hardi-something (board/panel/siding based on preferred look) instead of plastic.

  1. Do you need to remove/reinstall the mast or can you do this around it? In some areas, if you are close but don't need to touch it, they will come out for free and throw yellow silicone sleeves over the wires to improve safety (still aren't supposed to touch it but shouldn't get shocked badly if you do).
  2. I haven't done the outside of a house personally. For interior rigid foam on block we used pins to hold z-bar and built from the bottom up. Friend did his cottage on the outside and iirc, he did vertical wood furring with insulation between and then horizontal furring on top of that with another layer of insulation (board and batten for finish above that).
  3. Cables on the outside like what? Bell/Rogers boxes? Conduit for plugs? Are the bell/rogers/hydro meter on you garage? If so, I would probably just box them in and leave them where they are without insulation behind. Paint what you can see to match the siding.
  4. Can't help you.
 
For the service entrance. Hydro will come out (for a fee) and disconnect and reconnect in the same day or in a few days.... If you are moving or changing anything they will require a permit (notification) and for the ESA to inspect and issue a connection authorization prior to reactivating.

Around here there are quite a few houses where they added insulation over the brick and they just buried the service mast/entrance in the foam and stucco leaving some space at the cap if it is below the roof. Meter base still sticks out a bit. Not sure what code says about that and some may like that it is partially hidden, to me it looks super hack...
 
mimico_polak said:
We are currently leaning toward vinyl siding. Wood would be nice, but not sure which option is best. My biggest question is HOW to install the insulation to the wall....PL glue? bolts? Tapcons? Any issues with the brick breathing?
Click to expand...
Strapping to the brick, using tapcons.
We've used 2" blue styrofoam the couple times we did it.
You can use PL, or just stuff it, and side over.
 
backmarkerducati said:
For the service entrance. Hydro will come out (for a fee) and disconnect and reconnect in the same day or in a few days.... If you are moving or changing anything they will require a permit (notification) and for the ESA to inspect and issue a connection authorization prior to reactivating.
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I had to do that years ago when lightning took out one leg of power at the cottage. Called Hydro one and they said "no problem, we'll turn your power off and on up to x times a year for free". I said "Great. do it next Wednesday morning and turn it back on in the afternoon". They said they'd only turn it on after the ESA called and told them it was OK. That cost money, which ultimately got funneled back to the "Ontario Hydro" umbrella. Free my ass. I just changed it out live.
 
Lyndsay said:
I had to do that years ago when lightning took out one leg of power at the cottage. Called Hydro one and they said "no problem, we'll turn your power off and on up to x times a year for free". I said "Great. do it next Wednesday morning and turn it back on in the afternoon". They said they'd only turn it on after the ESA called and told them it was OK. That cost money, which ultimately got funneled back to the "Ontario Hydro" umbrella. Free my ass. I just changed it out live.
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My recent service move (old to new) was ~$700 paid to hydro (just a move 100 amps to 100 amps). Plus of course permit/notification with ESA (for full rewire, not just service in my case). Ones I had done in the past were free (hydro move) but that was a very long time ago. The move was booked a few weeks out from the request.
 
crankcall said:
Lumber pricing is just falling over a cliff , for anybody thinking about a large project it takes a few days to make its way through retail , but it’s off 3-400/m as of last night .


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Nice! I'm looking to replace my entire fence...about 300ft total.

HELOC hasn't come in yet and I've got a million projects on my mind already.
 
I've been meaning to ask about this for awhile. And funny enough a contractor was driving by offering to do this.

So a shingle tore off sometime Nov last year during a couple of windy days, then the snow hit. I actually found the shingle while snow shovelling. 😬

It's 1 shingle, it should be easy enough for me to replace on my own right? Can you buy 1 shingle, it's brown. I guess I need some nails and maybe some sealant?

BTW the random contractor wanted $200 to do it.
 
sburns said:
I've been meaning to ask about this for awhile. And funny enough a contractor was driving by offering to do this.

So a shingle tore off sometime Nov last year during a couple of windy days, then the snow hit. I actually found the shingle while snow shovelling. 😬

It's 1 shingle, it should be easy enough for me to replace on my own right? Can you buy 1 shingle, it's brown. I guess I need some nails and maybe some sealant?

BTW the random contractor wanted $200 to do it.
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$200 is pretty good. The guys I use start at $1000. It's not worth their time to show up and pull out a ladder for $200.

Who made the shingle? Ideally you want the same brand/model so it matches. Sometimes places like HD will sell you a single but normally you need to buy a bundle (and then you have spares). You probably can't (and definitely shouldn't) put the piece from the ground back in place as it will be ripped up. You need a prybar to lift shingles to get access and probably remove pieces that are left there, a handle of nails (for one shingle probably 6) and sealant isn't a bad idea but it shouldn't be needed.
 
GreyGhost said:
$200 is pretty good. The guys I use start at $1000. It's not worth their time to show up and pull out a ladder for $200.

Who made the shingle? Ideally you want the same brand/model so it matches. Sometimes places like HD will sell you a single but normally you need to buy a bundle (and then you have spares). You probably can't (and definitely shouldn't) put the piece from the ground back in place as it will be ripped up. You need a prybar to lift shingles to get access and probably remove pieces that are left there, a handle of nails (for one shingle probably 6) and sealant isn't a bad idea but it shouldn't be needed.
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It's probably on my invoice someplace, so I should be able to get a match or find the style.
Pretty sure there is a place on the Danforth where I can source the shingle.

I did think about putting it back it's actually not in bad shape but best to do it "properly" :p
 
For $200 I wouldn't even blink twice. But work like that is fairly simple to do yourself.

Only reason I'm not planning on doing my own shingles on the higher part of my house is because I'm terrified of heights. The lower level...I'd be happy doing that
 
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