Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[hdsomeday]

Wow! That's ridiculous. I honestly have not heard anything good about LG appliances. Everyone that I know has issues within the warranty period.

As for me, bought a toilet once, installed it and it all appears to be working well. Then the damn flapper fails for some reason...such a simple piece.

Go to HD and talk to their customer service:

- Hey, installed your toilet and here's the receipt. The flapper valve is shot within 48h and I just need that piece
- No can do. Need the whole toilet?
- Say what?
- Yes, I need the whole toilet as I can't just replace the flapper
- You're kidding me right. You want me to go home, remove the toilet and bring it to you?
- Yes
- You go do it.
- Sir I don't like your attitude
- Manager please
- What's the problem?
- Your genius here is telling me I need to take out an entire toilet that I bought from you with a $hit flapper in order to replace a $20 piece
- Go find the one you need and come see me
- Thanks
- Ok have fun. Don't worry about paying.

Whats funny about this is that if the Customer Service person you spoke to first had done the same thing as the manager did they would have taken heat for it. Full refund or exchange only at the desk by the lowly associates only if the item is complete in original packaging accompanied by a receipt or card used to purchase. Anything 'special' requires a manager. Dont even bother explaining anything 'special' to Customer Service, just walk up and ask for a manager, save the aggravation.

btw, if you dont have a receipt and paid cash (you would not believe how many of those stories they get a day, automatically assumed to be stolen) you will get a refund of the lowest price it has sold for in the last 12 months. So, if you paid cash for a $300 tool and try to return it without a receipt, and it happened to go on clearance on boxing day for $10, that is what you will get back, in the form of a gift card. Always keep your receipts or use a debit/credit card. As soon as they hear no receipt and paid cash you will see their attitude change.

 

[GreyGhost]

@Scuba Steve you have a link to this AC + heat pump combo? My HVAC guy just said he's not aware of it (or is playing dumb). But he's a good guy so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.

Da Fuk? Which brand does he use? Samples below.

Carrier

Heat Pumps | SEER2/HSPF2/EER2 Rated | Carrier Residential

Heat pump systems provide versatile heating, cooling, and humidity control. As part of our ongoing commitment to creating energy-efficient heating and cooling systems, starting in 2023 our new heat pumps will meet the new SEER2, HSPF2, and EER2 requirements. Find the perfect heat pump for you today.

www.carrier.com

Lennox

Heat Pumps

Lennox heat pumps provide premium heat and comfort for you and your family. Consider a heat pump from Lennox to help keep you and your family comfortable.

www.lennox.com

 

[Scuba Steve]

Every heat pump is a air conditioner they should be able to set your old furnace up as backup heat for when it is below -10.0 I think the problem is lack of knowledge and imagination. Install what is easier and be done.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

[Scuba Steve]

Wow! That's ridiculous. I honestly have not heard anything good about LG appliances. Everyone that I know has issues within the warranty period.

As for me, bought a toilet once, installed it and it all appears to be working well. Then the damn flapper fails for some reason...such a simple piece.

Go to HD and talk to their customer service:

- Hey, installed your toilet and here's the receipt. The flapper valve is shot within 48h and I just need that piece
- No can do. Need the whole toilet?
- Say what?
- Yes, I need the whole toilet as I can't just replace the flapper
- You're kidding me right. You want me to go home, remove the toilet and bring it to you?
- Yes
- You go do it.
- Sir I don't like your attitude
- Manager please
- What's the problem?
- Your genius here is telling me I need to take out an entire toilet that I bought from you with a $hit flapper in order to replace a $20 piece
- Go find the one you need and come see me
- Thanks
- Ok have fun. Don't worry about paying.

I would buy a new one switch the flapper then return for full refund.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

[timtune]

Bought a shite cieling fan from HD with a glass globe that I broke trying to get the bulb out.
Buy new fan swap globe.
Return fan "globe is broke"
"Replacment? No just a refund I've decided to go another way"
Done.

 

[Mad Mike]

Every heat pump is a air conditioner they should be able to set your old furnace up as backup heat for when it is below -10.0 I think the problem is lack of knowledge and imagination. Install what is easier and be done.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

I think the new ones can pull heat down to -30, that's the spec on the one I ordered for my garage.

 

[GreyGhost]

I think the new ones can pull heat down to -30, that's the spec on the one I ordered for my garage.

It's a continuum. Best changeover temperature depends on COP of heat pump at various temperatures, cost of electricity and cost of alternate heat source. At -30, your COP is probably close to 1 so cost to run is the same as electric resistance heat. Below that output will start falling off but power usage will stay the same and you would be better turning on resistance heat. In mp's case with high efficiency gas backup, best economy changeover temperature is likely higher (maybe close to ss estimate of -10).

 

[Mad Mike]

It's a continuum. Best changeover temperature depends on COP of heat pump and various temperatures, cost of electricity and cost of alternate heat source. At -30, your COP is probably close to 1 so cost to run is the same as electric resistance heat. Below that output will start falling off but power usage will stay the same and you would be better turning on resistance heat. In mp's case with high efficiency gas backup, best economy changeover temperature is likely higher (maybe close to ss estimate of -10).

That's my planned setup. I currently use resistive heat which I'll keep in place once the heatpump goes in. It isn't really hasn't been that expensive, I keep the garage above freezing, on weekends it's usually cranked to 18c. Runs off my house meter, never been over $150/mo for electricity on both house and garage (house is gas heat).

Garage is well insulated, R30 walls and R40 ceiling, R10 floor, with the weak spots are the rollup panel doors - I think they are only R8 and I get leakage between panels.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

18 years for the old washer
<18h for the new one.

LG machine likes to turn itself into a paddling pool once the power is off. Starts to very slowly fill with water when the cycle is finished leaving a few cups of water in the drum. We ran a few cycles as I guess it’s a water inlet valve issue and I was hoping it would seat itself but it hasn’t.

Now I’m trying to get the store to pick up this one and drop off a new one without having to return and repurchase and wait for new later delivery times.

Unfortunately I can beat your 18h by 18h. Our new Electrolux flooded our newly built bungalow the first time we turned it on. I called the store and they said nothing they can do, have to call Electrolux. Called Electrolux and got the voice recording “we’re too busy to take your call. Try again later.”
I took it apart and found the main water hose running from soap dispenser to tub wasn’t attached at all.
Eventually got ahold of Electrolux and explained the damage to our house (flooded from main floor down into basement wrecking drywall and bit of electrical. They said to go through insurance then they’d send someone to inspect to see if they’ll cover anything after insurance is done. Never buying Electrolux again.

 

[Hardwrkr13]

That's my planned setup. I currently use resistive heat which I'll keep in place once the heatpump goes in. It isn't really hasn't been that expensive, I keep the garage above freezing, on weekends it's usually cranked to 18c. Runs off my house meter, never been over $150/mo for electricity on both house and garage (house is gas heat).

Garage is well insulated, R30 walls and R40 ceiling, R10 floor, with the weak spots are the rollup panel doors - I think they are only R8 and I get leakage between panels.

It’s really difficult finding someone who can properly set up a dual source heating system even though the tech will never admit it. Just an fyi.

 

[GreyGhost]

It’s really difficult finding someone who can properly set up a dual source heating system even though the tech will never admit it. Just an fyi.

That's probably why I'm going to do it myself. Let the hack install it with their ticket. I will fix the programming and airflow after.

 

[mimico_polak]

That's probably why I'm going to do it myself. Let the hack install it with their ticket. I will fix the programming and airflow after.

That’s great if you have the skills. That’s way beyond my wheelhouse.

 

[nobbie48]

Unfortunately I can beat your 18h by 18h. Our new Electrolux flooded our newly built bungalow the first time we turned it on. I called the store and they said nothing they can do, have to call Electrolux. Called Electrolux and got the voice recording “we’re too busy to take your call. Try again later.”
I took it apart and found the main water hose running from soap dispenser to tub wasn’t attached at all.
Eventually got ahold of Electrolux and explained the damage to our house (flooded from main floor down into basement wrecking drywall and bit of electrical. They said to go through insurance then they’d send someone to inspect to see if they’ll cover anything after insurance is done. Never buying Electrolux again.

Few people have the patience to go after a big company. The store would have more clout than you and they got a piece of the profit so why wouldn't they go to bat for you?

Few of us have the time to spend on theatrical protests and possibly suffer consequences if the wrong line is crossed.

The joy of mass markets.

 

[Mad Mike]

It’s really difficult finding someone who can properly set up a dual source heating system even though the tech will never admit it. Just an fyi.

My garage was pretty easy to spec -- dual zone air source heat pump, one zone is a ductless wall unit (garage), the upstairs apartment runs through ducts. Currently, both areas are done with resistance heaters, 7.5kw garage heater downstairs, and 3 zones each with a 1500w baseboard heaters upstairs.

The resistance heaters upstairs are Dimplex Connex, each unit has its own thermostat and is controlled by a single wireless multizone controller. The controller is programmed to call for heat when the outside temp drops to where the heat pump struggles with heat (say -20). They also kick in if the space chills below a set temp, added protection should the heat pump fail.

It's not expensive, I think the heaters were $120 each and the controller $100 - about $100 more than using simple baseboard heaters.

 

[GreyGhost]

My garage was pretty easy to spec -- dual zone air source heat pump, one zone is a ductless wall unit (garage), the upstairs apartment runs through ducts. Currently, both areas are done with resistance heaters, 7.5kw garage heater downstairs, and 3 zones each with a 1500w baseboard heaters upstairs.

The resistance heaters upstairs are Dimplex Connex, each unit has its own thermostat and is controlled by a single wireless multizone controller. The controller is programmed to call for heat when the outside temp drops to where the heat pump struggles with heat (say -20). They also kick in if the space chills below a set temp, added protection should the heat pump fail.

It's not expensive, I think the heaters were $120 each and the controller $100 - about $100 more than using simple baseboard heaters.

Baseboards at the inlaws cottage went nuts one winter. Kept the heaters on full blast. Bill was four figures for one month. Fancy thermostat would be cheap insurance but no internet there to check on it.

I replaced the thermostat although I'm not sure that's where the problem was. Problem didnt reoccur so maybe it was the thermostat? If it happens again, I will have to figure out what the previous morons have done. I highly suspect there are relays somewhere in the system that could have been what stuck.

 

[sburns]

That's my planned setup. I currently use resistive heat which I'll keep in place once the heatpump goes in. It isn't really hasn't been that expensive, I keep the garage above freezing, on weekends it's usually cranked to 18c. Runs off my house meter, never been over $150/mo for electricity on both house and garage (house is gas heat).

Garage is well insulated, R30 walls and R40 ceiling, R10 floor, with the weak spots are the rollup panel doors - I think they are only R8 and I get leakage between panels.

Hey Mike how did you get to R30 and R40 did you use R22 batts with something else?

 

[Mad Mike]

Hey Mike how did you get to R30 and R40 did you use R22 batts with something else?

My walls are is 2x6 studs with Rockwool (R22)+ 2" of EPS styro board (R9) (the base for a stucco exterior). The roof is blown-in fiberglass, as is the floor that separates the garage and upstairs.

 

[Mad Mike]

Baseboards at the inlaws cottage went nuts one winter. Kept the heaters on full blast. Bill was four figures for one month. Fancy thermostat would be cheap insurance but no internet there to check on it.

I replaced the thermostat although I'm not sure that's where the problem was. Problem didnt reoccur so maybe it was the thermostat? If it happens again, I will have to figure out what the previous morons have done. I highly suspect there are relays somewhere in the system that could have been what stuck.

Ouch! a 7.5kw resistance heating circuit can burn up $750/mo in electricity all by itself.

My baseboard heaters are setup with redundant thermostats - one on the wall and another built into each heater. I have 2 heat circuits, so the chance of freezing or having all heaters get stuck WOT is very low.

 

[nobbie48]

Baseboards at the inlaws cottage went nuts one winter. Kept the heaters on full blast. Bill was four figures for one month. Fancy thermostat would be cheap insurance but no internet there to check on it.

I replaced the thermostat although I'm not sure that's where the problem was. Problem didnt reoccur so maybe it was the thermostat? If it happens again, I will have to figure out what the previous morons have done. I highly suspect there are relays somewhere in the system that could have been what stuck.

Some thermostats work on hydraulics. A fluid filled bulb (Light oil) expands with heat and sends the fluid to a bellows that opens the contacts. If there is a leak anywhere there is no hydraulic pressure to open the contacts.

Low voltage stats vary in type but a coiled bimetal strip is often the operation device. I don't know if they make mercury ones any more.

A surge can also weld the contacts together but that is rare.

The location of the sensing bulb, RTD, thermister, thermocouple etc is important. If it's in a cold draft it won't shut off.

A second stat can be used as an alarm if it has normally open contacts. Over X° C it alarms.

Alternately a second NC stat in series with and equal to the main one could be set a few degrees above the main. If the main one fails the rooms only get a little warmer.

 

[GreyGhost]

Some thermostats work on hydraulics. A fluid filled bulb (Light oil) expands with heat and sends the fluid to a bellows that opens the contacts. If there is a leak anywhere there is no hydraulic pressure to open the contacts.

Low voltage stats vary in type but a coiled bimetal strip is often the operation device. I don't know if they make mercury ones any more.

A surge can also weld the contacts together but that is rare.

The location of the sensing bulb, RTD, thermister, thermocouple etc is important. If it's in a cold draft it won't shut off.

A second stat can be used as an alarm if it has normally open contacts. Over X° C it alarms.

Alternately a second NC stat in series with and equal to the main one could be set a few degrees above the main. If the main one fails the rooms only get a little warmer.

I pulled a 30 year old thermostat and put in a modern bimetallic. I didnt see it when it was malfunctioning so I dont have an easy way to test what went wrong. Before replacing parts, I turned it on and tried to get it to fail but it worked properly. Location is decent (inside wall, no direct sun). A second in series is interesting but they would prefer a big bill to letting it freeze. No connection to the outside world so an alarm wouldnt help.