Anyone here a cyclist?

Which thule are you talking about?
And yeah the brunt of the weight of mine is in the trays (with ratcheting locks) and the top tube thing is more to hold it in place


I personally don't know HOW the accident happened...but a truck like that is loud as heck... its a freaking scary noise when one passes you so i doubt that she just veered into the truck. My educated guess is that she went into the live lane, ahead of the truck ...and the truck didnt notice her and rolled on top of her. Kinda like if you change lanes and a car going a bit too fast doesn't notice you and rear ends you.

Sure with our moto spidey senses we're used to spotting things like that but someone on their daily commute might not have anticipated that and it cost her her life. Sadly not everyone has that "danger sense" and they rely on other people to survive

edit) cant spell
Either way, vulnerable users need to operate with the inherent risks in mind, and take responsibility for improving rider safety.

I can’t imagine how it would change a drivers life if a cyclist died after suddenly veering into their vehicle’s path.
 
Either way, vulnerable users need to operate with the inherent risks in mind, and take responsibility for improving rider safety.

I can’t imagine how it would change a drivers life if a cyclist died after suddenly veering into their vehicle’s path.
I mean it's pretty deep trauma on all sides, driver, victim's close ones, by standers.
Charges and lawsuit and what not... it's not gonna be fun.

I know we keep talking about personal responsibility year after year but from what i see on the roads...on my commutes on the motor or pedalbike, it's not getting better. I guess it probably doesnt help my bias that i have r/torontodriving in my reddit feed :p
In this day, vulnerable users have to be more vigilant while navigating infrastructure that is not built to keep them the safest.
 
Which thule are you talking about?
And yeah the brunt of the weight of mine is in the trays (with ratcheting locks) and the top tube thing is more to hold it in place


I personally don't know HOW the accident happened...but a truck like that is loud as heck... its a freaking scary noise when one passes you so i doubt that she just veered into the truck. My educated guess is that she went into the live lane, ahead of the truck ...and the truck didnt notice her and rolled on top of her. Kinda like if you change lanes and a car going a bit too fast doesn't notice you and rear ends you.

Sure with our moto spidey senses we're used to spotting things like that but someone on their daily commute might not have anticipated that and it cost her her life. Sadly not everyone has that "danger sense" and they rely on other people to survive

edit) cant spell

I missed this. I’m thinking about the Thule Epos with lights. Buy once cry for a month.

There’s a Kilimanjaro rack from Costco that looks interesting too but no idea what kind of support for parts etc there would be with that one down the line.
 
So I played around with my bike on the repair stand today and found something new to me. Put the gear in the smallest chainring and the smaller rear cassette cog (and the one next to that to some extent) and I get a noisy chain. Some rubbing on the chain stay or something. Rode it back to the guy that tuned the bike and he said it’s normal and called cross chaining. Recommended not using small-small and shift to the larger chainring instead. Don’t have as much of an issue with the big chainring and the biggest cassette ring though. This is an 11 speed cassette and just the small and large front chainrings.

I’d never heard of this before. I feel like I’ve been robbed of two gears.
 
So I played around with my bike on the repair stand today and found something new to me. Put the gear in the smallest chainring and the smaller rear cassette cog (and the one next to that to some extent) and I get a noisy chain. Some rubbing on the chain stay or something. Rode it back to the guy that tuned the bike and he said it’s normal and called cross chaining. Recommended not using small-small and shift to the larger chainring instead. Don’t have as much of an issue with the big chainring and the biggest cassette ring though. This is an 11 speed cassette and just the small and large front chainrings.

I’d never heard of this before. I feel like I’ve been robbed of two gears.
True that but those combinations are redundant as they are duplicated by other combinations available.
You don't want to shift from the small chainring to the large if you are on the largest cog of the cassette or vice versa ether FWIW.
 
So I played around with my bike on the repair stand today and found something new to me. Put the gear in the smallest chainring and the smaller rear cassette cog (and the one next to that to some extent) and I get a noisy chain. Some rubbing on the chain stay or something. Rode it back to the guy that tuned the bike and he said it’s normal and called cross chaining. Recommended not using small-small and shift to the larger chainring instead. Don’t have as much of an issue with the big chainring and the biggest cassette ring though. This is an 11 speed cassette and just the small and large front chainrings.

I’d never heard of this before. I feel like I’ve been robbed of two gears.
If it makes you feel any better, there are more semi-useless gears. When you have multiple chainrings, going small-small or large-large is a bad idea. Some gear ratios are repeated with multiple chain rings (for instance 48-12 is the same as 56-14). All told, a 21 speed chain drive and 14 speed hub gear drive have pretty much the same range and number of distinct gears.
 
So I played around with my bike on the repair stand today and found something new to me. Put the gear in the smallest chainring and the smaller rear cassette cog (and the one next to that to some extent) and I get a noisy chain. Some rubbing on the chain stay or something. Rode it back to the guy that tuned the bike and he said it’s normal and called cross chaining. Recommended not using small-small and shift to the larger chainring instead. Don’t have as much of an issue with the big chainring and the biggest cassette ring though. This is an 11 speed cassette and just the small and large front chainrings.

I’d never heard of this before. I feel like I’ve been robbed of two gears.
You rarely need this combo. You should leave your bike with the chain on the smallest chain ring and smallest cog to take the tension off the derailleurs when parked overnight or season. The only other time was when my cable broke and I was going uphill and the front chain ring was all I can switch. So small chain ring to defaulted small cog to get up the hill.
 
Gear inches. Different F/R combos will give you the same or close number. Chains were designed to work in a straight line. It's very hard on them to work at extreme angles. 2/3 up or down the rear you want to switch the front then adjust the rear to the next up or down ratio you want to go to

Electronic shifters will automatically switch the front at the above point to avoid the extreme cross cog angles. The systems are hackable to an extent to tweak the changeover points.
 
While I agree the accident would not have happened if the dumpster wasn't there... the city does issue permits to obstruct bike and traffic lanes, so permit or not that dumpster could well have been there either way.

I'm a bit tired of cyclists blaming everyone for everything that happens to them. I don't ride a bicycle often, but when I do I'm as careful as when riding my motorcycle. I can't imagine a situation where I'd swerve into a live traffic lane without shoulder checking for 100% safety -- and I can't imagine missing a dump truck when doing a proper check before taking a lane.
Two companies charged for dumpster. They can pay set fine of $200 or if they go to court and lose, max fine is $1000. Complete waste of time. Fines need to be at least two orders of magnitude higher before any company would even consider by-law in their plans. Apparently this a provincial problem and douggie would need to update POA.

 
Hardtail or full suspension for a slightly lardy rider on an occasional weekend mountain bike ride on trails that won’t give a 50+ year old a stroke?

Not buying new, this would be used. Don’t want to spend a fortune so under 1k.
 
Hardtail or full suspension for a slightly lardy rider on an occasional weekend mountain bike ride on trails that won’t give a 50+ year old a stroke?

Not buying new, this would be used. Don’t want to spend a fortune so under 1k.
I would go hardtail and find something on pinkbike or marketplace. Used has some great value. Mtb do not hold value at all (with some exceptions) and depreciation is brutal (which is great for buyer two). Fit is always tricky. Brand is almost unimportant as there are so many that are acceptable. The last mtb I bought was two years old, in great shape and less than 20% of price when new.
 
I vote hardtail too and I’m way past 50. I have both and the full suspension one is a pain when you are riding on the road going uphill and some of your efforts are sent to the rear shock bouncing. I have it turned all the way right too.
Also another part to worry about.
Picked up the hard tail on Kijiji. Turns out the seller worked at a bike shop and had premium parts on it. Way beyond my ability but they lasted well.
 
Trek Roscoe 7 for $800? That a good deal?

Size L..might be too big for me. I’m 5 10, 32” inseam.
I was going to ask about size but you added it. I'm a similar size and normally ride large.

I normally lean to forks with 100mm travel but that may be because I'm old and the kids know better.
 
I was going to ask about size but you added it. I'm a similar size and normally ride large.

I normally lean to forks with 100mm travel but that may be because I'm old and the kids know better.

Seems smaller frames are nimble, larger more stable. I like stable, if it’s comfy.

No idea if that’s a decent bike. Seems to be quite a discount from new though.
 
Trek Roscoe 7 for $800? That a good deal?

Size L..might be too big for me. I’m 5 10, 32” inseam.
I just checked the cost is $1,600 for brand new. So maybe some wiggle room?
 
I just checked the cost is $1,600 for brand new. So maybe some wiggle room?

I’ve only just started looking. I’ll pass on this if it’s not the best deal or if I can do better. Guy says he’s used it 3 times since new and it looks it by the pics.
 
I just checked the cost is $1,600 for brand new. So maybe some wiggle room?
It was $2200, 1600 is trek trying to clear out inventory.

If I wasn't in a rush, I'd consider low-balling a bunch of bike candidates. Seller asks for 800, offer 500. Some may take it as that's still a decent amount of cash back into the wallet. While 800 is a decent discount from New, in my experience mtb has a huge haircut. Road bikes hold value much better (not sure why).
 
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