What did you do to your track/race bike today

I will honestly recommend you to switch it around, it will give you lots more room for error

Tried both, the other way around has more issues actually. The strain gauge was rubbing when mounted in reverse. I will keep an eye on the rod for any signs of it touching during the first couple sessions at the track and make adjustments if needed.
 
Having some troubles with the clutch, I can't adjust it the way I want---when squeezed, there's quite a bit of travel before it disengages... I tried everything (there are 3 places to adjust: lever, right hand-side cover, clutch side pushrod adjustment screw). I wonder if this is actually how a new clutch supposed to be like...never been on a brand new bike. Don't know, it's practically new---new steels, new fibers... beginning to think if this 2005gsxr1000 slipper clutch was a mistake all along. I must have ****** off the neighbors at least a dozen times today testing the clutch around the block, at some point I couldn't restrain myself and pulled a really long wheelie on my street, at least that brought some smiles in my helmet.
 
Nah I got a case of 25 for 100 bucks so when there done, I'll use k&n hahaha
This reminds me, do you guys change the filter every time you change the oil?
Because it's a track bike, I'll be changing the oil every 2-3 track days, should I change the filter as well?
Using Motul 7100 and OEM filters, I also bought a case of 12. lol

Forgot that I still have to drain the coolant from winter storage and add water/water wetter.
I'm also on the hunt for a piece that no one seems to have, might have to buy OEM. :(
 
This reminds me, do you guys change the filter every time you change the oil?
Because it's a track bike, I'll be changing the oil every 2-3 track days, should I change the filter as well?
Using Motul 7100 and OEM filters, I also bought a case of 12. lol

Forgot that I still have to drain the coolant from winter storage and add water/water wetter.
I'm also on the hunt for a piece that no one seems to have, might have to buy OEM. :(

I change the filter every 2nd oil change.
 
like the bbq enamel black, just watch the 200 mph duct tape use, they don't seem to get along.
 
Having some troubles with the clutch, I can't adjust it the way I want---when squeezed, there's quite a bit of travel before it disengages... I tried everything (there are 3 places to adjust: lever, right hand-side cover, clutch side pushrod adjustment screw). I wonder if this is actually how a new clutch supposed to be like...never been on a brand new bike. Don't know, it's practically new---new steels, new fibers... beginning to think if this 2005gsxr1000 slipper clutch was a mistake all along. I must have ****** off the neighbors at least a dozen times today testing the clutch around the block, at some point I couldn't restrain myself and pulled a really long wheelie on my street, at least that brought some smiles in my helmet.

Unless you have an aftermarket lever your clutch works the way your clutch works, you can't adjust where it engages or disengages.
 
Having some troubles with the clutch, I can't adjust it the way I want---when squeezed, there's quite a bit of travel before it disengages... I tried everything (there are 3 places to adjust: lever, right hand-side cover, clutch side pushrod adjustment screw). I wonder if this is actually how a new clutch supposed to be like...never been on a brand new bike. Don't know, it's practically new---new steels, new fibers... beginning to think if this 2005gsxr1000 slipper clutch was a mistake all along. I must have ****** off the neighbors at least a dozen times today testing the clutch around the block, at some point I couldn't restrain myself and pulled a really long wheelie on my street, at least that brought some smiles in my helmet.
might make it tricky to launch, but should be ok
 
Unless you have an aftermarket lever your clutch works the way your clutch works, you can't adjust where it engages or disengages.
Sure you can.....his bike has a cable actuated clutch with threaded adjusters, so the friction point can be move closer to or farther from the bar. I have tiny hands and like the friction point so close to the bar, other riders often stall my bike A hydraulic system is much harder to deal with becasue of this..... I can modulate the engagement better the more my hand is closed....when my hand is almost all the way open at the friction point I have less finite control....so I keep it very close to the bar.
 
Unless you have an aftermarket lever your clutch works the way your clutch works, you can't adjust where it engages or disengages.

I have a Pazzo clutch lever. I can adjust the distance so that I have enough space to disengage the clutch before I pinch my fingers, that's no problem. Problem is that there is quite a bit of lever travel before it fully disengages, which is inconvenient. Well, I don't use the clutch for upshifts, but when downshifting it's too much travel, wish it did it at the top.

FYI, it doesn't seem to be a matter of adjustment, because looking at the clutch in the adjustment opening, the pressure plate starts to lift almost right away after I start squeezing the lever (I left a tiny slack). Problem is it apparently takes alll this way for it to travel to completely lift the pressure plate :( Don't know, maybe I have false expectations... all other bikes I've ridden---they all seemed to engage/disengage with a very little travel of the lever.

Maybe a Pazzo shorty clutch lever will make it better, I use two fingers, and right now if I have the lever close to the handlebar and comfortable, then I pinch my other two fingers...hmmm...there goes another hundred bucks, huh..

Anyone want a pair of black brake & clutch pazzos with titanium adjusters for the exchange of a shorty clutch side or some money? :)
 
Omnivore, Ok so your just adding a bunch of extra freeplay into the cable, to me that's wrong because now your not opening the plates enough when you pull your lever which is exactly the problem corsara is having.
 
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Theres plenty of adjustment in there to allow the friction point to come almost all the way to the bar, and still have zero clutch drag. Lots, like inches of loose lever travel is possiblke, even with a brand new unstretched cable. This is why those adjusters are there.....so you can adjust controls so they "fit" you. I did the same clucth mod as Corsaro did on my 05 GSXR 1000, and after buttoning it back up, dealt with the same issue. It took some futzing about with the adjutment at the rod, arm, and lever, but I dialed it out, and then rode it for 3 yrs without issue.

The hydr. system on my KTM required a fancy (read pricey) lever to deal with moving the friction point closer to the bar. I wish there was a cable conversion available for it.
 
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Theres plenty of adjustment in there to allow the friction point to come almost all the way to the bar, and still have zero clutch drag. Lots, like inches of loose lever travel is possiblke, even with a brand new unstretched cable. This is why those adjusters are there.....so you can adjust controls so they "fit" you. I did the same clucth mod as Corsaro did on my 05 GSXR 1000, and after buttoning it back up, dealt with the same issue. It took some futzing about with the adjutment at the rod, arm, and lever, but I dialed it out, and then rode it for 3 yrs without issue.

The hydr. system on my KTM required a fancy (read pricey) lever to deal with moving the friction point closer to the bar. I wish there was a cable conversion available for it.

But I want just the opposite---I want the friction zone away from the bar. There's nothing that can be done with the three adjustment places. As I said, the pressure plate is moving all the way through the lever travel. If I thighten up and remove any cable slack, and then more, then techically the clutch will never be fully engaged. So having that at the top with a tiny little cable slack available (for good measures), the clutch would fully disengage only when the lever is way way squeezed.

So I was thinking---new fiber and steel plates---maybe that's what a new clutch is like---even just a tiny bit of pressure from the pressure plate, and the clutch is engaged... I did soak them in oil for 30 minutes before installing, but.... anyway, i guess i just need to get used to it.. :(
 
I had another racer that this happened with. 2 laps and he came back in and said that it had bedded in or something weird like that and then the clutch was fine. you may have to ride the bike under load to make it work right. oh and his bike was a gixxer too
 
I had another racer that this happened with. 2 laps and he came back in and said that it had bedded in or something weird like that and then the clutch was fine. you may have to ride the bike under load to make it work right. oh and his bike was a gixxer too

I really like the sound of that! Well, only one way to find out.. Will report on this after May 2nd :D
 
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