What did you do in your garage today..?

Interesting chat I just had with a cousin. He says that he changes his transmission fluid annually…mind you he does 50-70k per year…but he did say he does that even on his cars that go less than 20k/year.

His current car is hitting 700,000km.
 
Interesting chat I just had with a cousin. He says that he changes his transmission fluid annually…mind you he does 50-70k per year…but he did say he does that even on his cars that go less than 20k/year.

His current car is hitting 700,000km.
My car is getting oil, transmission, haldex, diff and bevel box fluid (and filter where applicable) changed once it all shows up. $500 in fluids in transit (although that includes oil for a few more oil changes). While many manufacturers call fluids "lifetime" that really means they last through the warranty period. Every year is a bit much. If an interval is provided by manufacturer, I stick to it. For "lifetime" fluids, I normally do every five years. If I saw something concerning in the old fluid, I would shorten the interval.
 
For "lifetime" fluids, I normally do every five years.

Yea - I dont trust manufacturers who state that either. In all likelihood they mean 'lifetime' for the period of the warranty only.
My previous Dodge used the German made ZF 8HP45 transmission. Dodge dealerships claimed no need for fluid change but ZF did state a specific interval for service. Im glad I changed the fluid and filtran out before I hit 100k kms as the original green tea looking ZF fluid was dark brown/almost black and all the filtran magnets were caked in clutch residue!!


 
@Hardwrkr13 have you done the transmission fluid on your own on the Odyssey? Not sure how involving that is...but probably not a backyard / weekend mechanic type of deal (unlike an oil change).
 
@Hardwrkr13 have you done the transmission fluid on your own on the Odyssey? Not sure how involving that is...but probably not a backyard / weekend mechanic type of deal (unlike an oil change).
Transmission is normally not hard. There are a few ways that people get caught out.
  1. Wrong drain/fill plugs (for instance you dump the diff and fill the trans or vise-versa). Most people figure this out driving down the road when it makes expensive noises.
  2. Always get fill plug removed before attempting to remove drain plug. Sometimes fill plug is stuck and figuring that out after trans is empty is a bad day.
  3. Some trans are a prick to fill. Sometimes you can snake a hose down from the top, sometimes you pump from the bottom, sometimes you fill through the drain. Some trans fluid comes in bags now so you can avoid the expense/hassle of a pump.
  4. Trans fluid is bloody pricey normally so you don't want to screw up or waste much. In the ballpark of $150-200 for a change ime.
  5. Check forums for filter/screen info. Many manufacturers say the filter/screen never gets touched. Some people check it and it's full of crap (certain models only).
EDIT:
Follow proper procedures too. Normally vehicle level. Often trans temp requirements. Often need to poke the computer to tell it that something has happened and it needs to relearn proper settings.
 
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@Hardwrkr13 have you done the transmission fluid on your own on the Odyssey? Not sure how involving that is...but probably not a backyard / weekend mechanic type of deal (unlike an oil change).
I will be doing it in the next few weeks. I usually do our vehicles trannies every 100k but we don’t do any stop/go or city driving so they all have an easy life. The Ody is at 74k now so I’ll do it a bit early even on my standards but most picky/OCD Ody owners do them every 50k miles so I’m right in the ballpark.
It’s not difficult, just a bit awkward. My SUV I just siphoned out the dipstick tube and refilled a few times, easy peasy. The Ody you have to raise it so you can get underneath but have it level, then go underneath, pull the fill and check bolts, then drain. Run a tube from the fill hole a few feet up to the engine bay and connect it to a funnel and fill that way. Fill to check bolt and hand tighten those bolts to end run it through the gears (stationary) then check level again. You won’t get all the oil out this way so you’re supposed to do to the drain/fill 3 times to get it all but I’ve found my oil always looks perfect when I do it within my mileage levels.
 
I will be doing it in the next few weeks. I usually do our vehicles trannies every 100k but we don’t do any stop/go or city driving so they all have an easy life. The Ody is at 74k now so I’ll do it a bit early even on my standards but most picky/OCD Ody owners do them every 50k miles so I’m right in the ballpark.
It’s not difficult, just a bit awkward. My SUV I just siphoned out the dipstick tube and refilled a few times, easy peasy. The Ody you have to raise it so you can get underneath but have it level, then go underneath, pull the fill and check bolts, then drain. Run a tube from the fill hole a few feet up to the engine bay and connect it to a funnel and fill that way. Fill to check bolt and hand tighten those bolts to end run it through the gears (stationary) then check level again. You won’t get all the oil out this way so you’re supposed to do to the drain/fill 3 times to get it all but I’ve found my oil always looks perfect when I do it within my mileage levels.
I change:

Engine oil & filter once a year or 8000KM.
Transmissions, transfer case, and diffs at 5 years or 100K.
Brake fluid - push through 350ml at every brake job.
Coolant - 5 years
Power steering - never.

Air filters are cleaned or changed when necessary
 
After checking that the 750 SOHC battery would spin the 1100 Wing over nicely, out came cardboard and hotglue to make full size model of it. Didn't want the 750 out of commission while piddling around designing & building a battery box/bracket.
In order to ensure the battery could be removed w/o removing the tire (it's being hung under the rigid swingarm, between motor and rear tire) I also made a cardboard cut out the diameter of the rear wheel. That wheel is heavy and requires bolting in the differentional.

Also removed the rusted bottom from a cool old Robbins & Myers Co oscilating fan that I rescued from the ReStore scrap metal pile (16", 6 brass blades, w/ fullcage intact, 191? is my guess) After sidestepping what I think is a very corroded 3 speed motor control I found the fan and oscilation work great. Yeah I need another project.......
 
Interesting chat I just had with a cousin. He says that he changes his transmission fluid annually…mind you he does 50-70k per year…but he did say he does that even on his cars that go less than 20k/year.

His current car is hitting 700,000km.
Wasted cash. My 2000 Toyota Echo went over 400K with the original tranny fluid and clutch. (And I taught both kids to drive stick in it)
 
A standard will go virtually forever without an oil change, an auto box? not so much. Automatics need service if you want them to last... you also want to do band adjustments and check the clutches while you're in there... flushing out the torque converter is a really good idea too (it holds half the trans fluid and doesn't empty when you empty the pan)
 
A standard will go virtually forever without an oil change, an auto box? not so much. Automatics need service if you want them to last... you also want to do band adjustments and check the clutches while you're in there... flushing out the torque converter is a really good idea too (it holds half the trans fluid and doesn't empty when you empty the pan)
Echo is also a low torque/hp application and fwd. That's all nicer on the trans most of the time. Add boost/awd etc and trans fluid starts to see a lot more energy (and therefore heat). In a WRX, they want manual trans fluid swaps every 50K km.
 
............... Automatics need service if you want them to last... you also want to do band adjustments and check the clutches while you're in there... flushing out the torque converter is a really good idea too (it holds half the trans fluid and doesn't empty when you empty the pan)

My understanding is that CVT transmissions are especially sensitive to dirty fluid issues and that you exceed flush intervals at your peril. A bad CVT is a $6,000+ issue to fix. Apparently Nissan has a reputation for poor CVT relability.
 
My understanding is that CVT transmissions are especially sensitive to dirty fluid issues and that you exceed flush intervals at your peril. A bad CVT is a $6,000+ issue to fix. Apparently Nissan has a reputation for poor CVT relability.
Does anyone have a reputation for good CVT reliability? They are efficient and a cool idea but pushing a chain as a way to move power ends in tears.

Does Nissan have a good reputation for anything?
 
Unreliability.
I've had a few winners, and a big loser.

'86 300ZX TT - Winner
'87 Pulsar - winner (wife's)
'90 Pathfinder - Great for 10 years then got rusty (wife's)
'05 Q45 - awesome, except for the gas mileage
'10 Xtrail - great (wife's)
'17 Altima - horrible. It's the last Nissan I'll ever own. (wife)

I think Nissan lost there way in the late 90's.

The GTR is the only thing that impresses me from their current lineup.
 
I think Nissan lost there way in the late 90's.

The GTR is the only thing that impresses me from their current lineup.
I agree. The GTR is the only recent one I would be interested in. In the 80's they had some cool cars. Selling unreliable, undesired crap for decades makes be constantly surprised that they still exist.
 
I agree. The GTR is the only recent one I would be interested in. In the 80's they had some cool cars. Selling unreliable, undesired crap for decades makes be constantly surprised that they still exist.

I’d add their latest small truck Frontier. Last V6 available pretty reliable engine, with all the Toyota latest reliability issues and latest gen Tacoma turned out so fragile flower - demand for Frontier went back up
 
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