What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 184 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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Sunday Rider said:
How is the leg distance from seat to shifter and brake? Have you gone for a really long ride to test it? Some with Corbins complain that it feels like a block of wood while others say after they break in they are fantastic. Looks like a real nice seat. The yellow accent is the cherry!
Did you send them your seat pan for them to reupholster?
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Thanks!

So I immediately noticed the ride position was different. I would say it pushed me back a bit, and lower a bit.
Legs/feet felt a bit off, but not as much as arms and back. Easier to get use to with feet then arms.
Yesterdays ride was about 350k. I felt good afterwards and didn't feel I needed to take as many brakes.
With the stock seat my butt would be very sore and I could feel it in my tailbone, and after the ride my body was done.

I didn't send them anything, this is a complete replacement, just order and it drops in like original seat.
 
sburns said:
Thanks!

So I immediately noticed the ride position was different. I would say it pushed me back a bit, and lower a bit.
Legs/feet felt a bit off, but not as much as arms and back. Easier to get use to with feet then arms.
Yesterdays ride was about 350k. I felt good afterwards and didn't feel I needed to take as many brakes.
With the stock seat my butt would be very sore and I could feel it in my tailbone, and after the ride my body was done.

I didn't send them anything, this is a complete replacement, just order and it drops in like original seat.
Click to expand...
Wow 350km on a new seat; you are brave. That is great that you stopped less than the OEM seat. Sounds like a winner. Maybe with the bars turned up as suggested, the arms won’t be an issue. A small height bar riser might be the ticket next.
 
So, with the M1000R out of the picture, I have decided the only logical way to proceed is farkles for the Supersport. Yes, I know I have a problem.... just let it go.
Yes I know I bug @Evoex about his farkles... but those are different farkles..... mine are fine.

Farkles.jpg


Where we started....

Brake.

Brake.jpg


Shifter.

Shifter.jpg

Spent some time prepping the garage so I didn't end up in my usual mess of tools and parts everywhere..... Even pulled out an ancient laptop for schematics and torque specs.

Prep1.jpg

Prep 2.jpg

The only real pain with the installation is the the main swingarm bolt. It is some weird 12 point fitting. It is not a 'triple square', it's just weird.
The consensus online is to use a 5/8 - 11 nut. The cross section is 15/16" [.937" (23.8mm)] which is very close to the 24mm Allen that you can also use. Who has a 24mm hex bit?

Stupid.jpg

Anyroad.... I think it turned out quite nicely. Still need to bleed that back brake as this system uses a pressure switch for the brake light as opposed to the limit switch from Ducati.

Side.jpg

Brake new.jpg

Shift new.jpg

Angle.jpg

Thanks for looking......
 
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Finally had some time to get some work done on the bike today in prep for a long ride tomorrow.
  • Oil/filter change
  • Swapped my forks out with an upgraded pair.
  • Bled the front brakes, swapped out the pads and cleaned the pistons - one of which was stuck and causing uneven wear.
  • Went to adjust my chain and noticed a really tight spot. Happened to have a new chain kicking around, so swapped that out too. Ordered the sprockets, so those can be done this week.
Went out for a quick test ride and it feels like a very different bike:)
 
Yesterday I pulled the tire from the KLR, spooned off the rubber and found the tiniest nub of a rusty nail fragment had pierced the tire and tube.
Patched the tube. Debated putting the nearly worn out tire back on to use up the last bits but came to my senses and ordered a new K270. It's on it's way now.

@sburns FYI the new Kenda all in, delivered to the door $130
 
Between Princess Auto and Canadian Tire, I picked up a bunch of gear (ramps, crawler, drain pan, oil etc.) on sale so that I am now setup to change the oil in my cars. I’ve been wanting to do this for a long time as full synthetic oil changes are $100 a pop these days.

For around $225 I am g2g now.
 
robertv19 said:
Between Princess Auto and Canadian Tire, I picked up a bunch of gear (ramps, crawler, drain pan, oil etc.) on sale so that I am now setup to change the oil in my cars. I’ve been wanting to do this for a long time as full synthetic oil changes are $100 a pop these days.

For around $225 I am g2g now.
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Once I started to do oil changes from the top, I rarely pull drain plugs anymore. It's a lot faster and just as effective for most engines.
 
robertv19 said:
Between Princess Auto and Canadian Tire, I picked up a bunch of gear (ramps, crawler, drain pan, oil etc.) on sale so that I am now setup to change the oil in my cars. I’ve been wanting to do this for a long time as full synthetic oil changes are $100 a pop these days.

For around $225 I am g2g now.
Click to expand...
I did the same thing this spring.

As I was ordering filters and oil for the bikes, tractors and lawn mower I realized that I should also be doing my truck. I've always taken it to the garage.

Watched a 2 minute youtube video then up onto my new ramps and done in around 15 minutes. It was just as easy as the the lawnmower.
 
My Husky 250 was unwilling to rev. Crack the throttle and pause, stumble, stumble go. According to people wiser than me (internet) the most common causes were plugged inline fuel filter, plugged in-tank fuel filter, and plugged injector.

In my case it was 2 of 3. The little inline filter took all of 1 minute to change and the in-tank one wasn't too bad although a little finicky getting the assembly positioned. I also replaced the spark plug since the manual said it was time.

All Fixed!!

So now it's back to being a pretty gutless little enduro that works wonderfully in the single track.
 
xrljoel said:
My Husky 250 was unwilling to rev. Crack the throttle and pause, stumble, stumble go. According to people wiser than me (internet) the most common causes were plugged inline fuel filter, plugged in-tank fuel filter, and plugged injector.

In my case it was 2 of 3. The little inline filter took all of 1 minute to change and the in-tank one wasn't too bad although a little finicky getting the assembly positioned. I also replaced the spark plug since the manual said it was time.

All Fixed!!

So now it's back to being a pretty gutless little enduro that works wonderfully in the single track.
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It wouldn't rev in neutral or under load? If in neutral, I'm surprised a filter could be that plugged. I would have highly suspected injector.
 
Yesterday my new tire arrived. I had it on and the bead in place in less than 1/2 an hour so that's a win for me. I left it over inflated to 46psi last night. If it's still holding that this morning I'll be slipping it on.
 
GreyGhost said:
My wife's car fought me last time and kept sucking air. On my car, oil change from the top is less than 10 minutes.
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Any concern about what might be left behind in the sump after a few "from the top changes" changes?

Most oil filters are accessed from under the car, so you're crawling around there anyway. Maybe the ticket here is to suck out the majoiry of the oil from the top, then pull the drain plug to get the residual and then do the filter,
 
Just as I'm about to mount the wheel I notice one bearing is seized. Won't turn but maybe a degree or so. The axle looks fine. No scraping marks or burning, like something happened since I got the wheel off.

Tried flushing it with carb cleaner and the little red tube but nothing.

Just like the steering stem bearing, Kawi gives you bugger all of a lip to connect with a drift. Manual shows a special tool method or heat and good luck with the drift.

Off to Technical to seek help from the big foreheads.

Edit: Comp air and more spray managed to flush out something. All good.
 
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ReSTored said:
Any concern about what might be left behind in the sump after a few "from the top changes" changes?

Most oil filters are accessed from under the car, so you're crawling around there anyway. Maybe the ticket here is to suck out the majoiry of the oil from the top, then pull the drain plug to get the residual and then do the filter,
Click to expand...
On my car, if you pull the drain plug after you vacuum from the top you will only get a few drips at most so no concern. Oil filters on both current cages are on top.
 
Just some of the tools required to install a set of so called "universal fit" soft luggage.

It's okay with me, though; I expected nothing less, and any garage time is always a good time.

PXL-20240706-224307784-MP.jpg
 
Put up some more storage solutions. Jury is still out. Going to bring home wind surfing stuff from inlaws cottage so I needed somewhere to put the boards where they are safe. Unfortunately the location where there is space is above the workbench about 10' agl. Hmmm. May work for the winter but no way my wife will be able to get a board out of there. Added another location about 6' agl but it's too short (heater and filing cabinet limiting length) so until a board is here I'm not sure if it will work. This location also interferes with location bicycles live in the winter.

If I hate these options, I have hangers that can drop from ceiling but they won't be fun to access either.
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