What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 99 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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That “nipple” that’s developed in the neck of the coolant bottle and spitting out coolant (snowmobile) isn’t supposed to be there. Apparently it’s a common thing where the exhaust makes the plastic weak enough to do this. I’ll order a new bottle but anyone have advice for a epoxy or melting fix to get it through a few weeks before I get the new part?
I was thinking some soft rubber and a hose clamp might work.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
View attachment 59418
That “nipple” that’s developed in the neck of the coolant bottle and spitting out coolant (snowmobile) isn’t supposed to be there. Apparently it’s a common thing where the exhaust makes the plastic weak enough to do this. I’ll order a new bottle but anyone have advice for a epoxy or melting fix to get it through a few weeks before I get the new part?
I was thinking some soft rubber and a hose clamp might work.
Click to expand...
I'd probably put some epoxy or silicone on a coarse threaded screw and drive it in. Test epoxy/silicone first, you want something that sticks to the plastic. Obviously dont want much goo inside the tank in case it falls into the liquid. Wrap next tank in tin foil.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
I’ll order a new bottle but anyone have advice for a epoxy or melting fix to get it through a few weeks before I get the new part?
I was thinking some soft rubber and a hose clamp might work.
Click to expand...

Perhaps a piece of aluminum foil duct tape. Not the regular general purpose plastic or rubbery stuff, the real aluminum stuff.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
View attachment 59418
That “nipple” that’s developed in the neck of the coolant bottle and spitting out coolant (snowmobile) isn’t supposed to be there. Apparently it’s a common thing where the exhaust makes the plastic weak enough to do this. I’ll order a new bottle but anyone have advice for a epoxy or melting fix to get it through a few weeks before I get the new part?
I was thinking some soft rubber and a hose clamp might work.
Click to expand...

I used self-sealing silicone tape to temporarily fix a cracked coolant hose. It worked worked so well I haven't bothered to change it out even though I got a replacement, but thanks for reminding me. Stretch before overlapping to make a good bond. Also comes in clear if you wanted to wrap the new one to act as a heat shield.

Same day delivery on certain colors, or clear by the weekend:
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You're going to see up to 15PSI in the cooling system, and unless you're running on loose snow, most LC snow machines struggle with heat, and cooling system pressure will be high. I would worry about a goo or tape patch.

If it were me, I'd sleeve the upright pipe part of the tank with a length of regular or silicone rad hose and 2 hose clamps. Depending on the diameter of the cap, you might be able to slide one over and then cinch it down with the hose clamp. If not, cut the pipe off at the blister then reconnect the tanks and filler using a piece of rad hose.
 
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Mad Mike said:
You're going to see up to 15PSI in the cooling system, and unless you're running on loose snow, most LC snow machines struggle with heat, and cooling system pressure will be high. I would worry about a goo tor tape patch.

If it were me, I'd sleeve the upright pipe part of the tank with a length of regular or silicone rad hose and 2 hose clamps. Depending on the diameter of the cap, you might be able to slide one over then cinch it down with the hose clamp. If not, cut the pipe off at the blister then reconnect the tanks and filler using a piece of rad hose.
Click to expand...
I mostly like that solution. If you cut the neck off and use rad and clamps though, I'm not convinced. You would be relying on hose clamps to hold back most of 50 pounds of separating force. That can easily work with a rib on the necks but in this case he is missing that rib. You may be able to utilize the existing rib and the blowout as retaining ribs but I'm not sure I'd trust it. I'd probably run a loop of tie wire from below the tank and over the rad cap to take the linear force.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
View attachment 59418
That “nipple” that’s developed in the neck of the coolant bottle and spitting out coolant (snowmobile) isn’t supposed to be there. Apparently it’s a common thing where the exhaust makes the plastic weak enough to do this. I’ll order a new bottle but anyone have advice for a epoxy or melting fix to get it through a few weeks before I get the new part?
I was thinking some soft rubber and a hose clamp might work.
Click to expand...
At least you're in the garage and not this guy. (Some bad language, audio NSFW)

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1.5M views · 10K reactions | Just another day on the mountain #snowmobile #snowmobilefails #blowout #BOOMchallenge | Steve Ciolkosz | Steve Ciolkosz · Original audio

Just another day on the mountain #snowmobile #snowmobilefails #blowout #BOOMchallenge. Steve Ciolkosz · Original audio
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Relax said:
15 PSI is no problem. Here's the video that sold me on trying it:

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Hahahaha. Not a bad video. After having a prick of a time sealing 110 psi air, suggesting that it could work on brake line in a pinch was right off the rails. Clamp that brake line off with visegrips, don't bother wasting $20 worth of tape that doesn't have a chance (>1000 psi and brake fluid).
 
Would that grey metal tape used in hvac ducting work as an on heat shield on the new part? I already have some of that. New part should be here by mid next week.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Would that grey metal tape used in hvac ducting work as an on heat shield on the new part? I already have some of that. New part should be here by mid next week.
Click to expand...
I use a few wraps of tinfoil for a plastic fuel filter uncomfortably close to a header. Don't wrap too tight. You don't want too much conduction. You should have no need for adhesive and it just makes a mess.

Foil tape will probably work but I suspect the adhesive won't hold. I have 3m 3340 which is good for -40 to 150C, it may hold up. Not sure about rating for generic foil tape.
 
A bit off topic but i listed a very "experienced" vidmar 13 drawer on kijiji for $500. The response has been unbelievable. Blows my mind as the market for automotive tools and such is flat ATM.
If anybody else has quality industrial cabinets collecting dust it might be a good time to move them on.
 
Dirty Frank said:
A bit off topic but i listed a very "experienced" vidmar 13 drawer on kijiji for $500. The response has been unbelievable. Blows my mind as the market for automotive tools and such is flat ATM.
If anybody else has quality industrial cabinets collecting dust it might be a good time to move them on.
Click to expand...

The brand new is like 4 grand at Grainger so $500 really is a steal


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I’m getting a IAT 2 sensor issue on my car. Cleaned it (IAT is built into my MAF) so I replaced the sensor. That didn’t fix it. Located the MAP, which also has a temp sensor, but it’s in the manifold post throttle body and a bugger to get to on this turbo car. Again cleaning it didn’t fix so I replaced it yesterday so hopefully that fixes it. Connections are clean so if that doesn’t cure it I’m likely dealing with a wire issue so it’ll go to a shop if that’s the case.
 
Garage door won't open more than a foot since a couple of days ago. It was right after the deep freeze then bit of a thaw here. I think the left track is too far left, but I'm not 100% sure. Calling the door guy tomorrow.
 
Baggsy said:
Garage door won't open more than a foot since a couple of days ago. It was right after the deep freeze then bit of a thaw here. I think the left track is too far left, but I'm not 100% sure. Calling the door guy tomorrow.
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The rollers are normally not captive and can slide wider if the tracks are too wide. Obviously a limit for narrower though. Were you raising by hand or with the opener? Always troubleshoot with the opener disconnected. Could be as simple as door picked up some ice and is heavier and the up force needs to be slightly increased.
 
GreyGhost said:
The rollers are normally not captive and can slide wider if the tracks are too wide. Obviously a limit for narrower though. Were you raising by hand or with the opener? Always troubleshoot with the opener disconnected. Could be as simple as door picked up some ice and is heavier and the up force needs to be slightly increased.
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Seems ok with the opener disconnected, but jams when connected. I don't see any ice. Top left roller seems to be as wide as it can go at the jam, top right roller is pretty much centred. I was wondering if there's some torque on the door as it's lifting. What cheeses me off most, is that the crew doing the garage renovation threw the brand new tracks in the dump, and left the old rusty ones. I think Kevin was running that crew.
 
Baggsy said:
Seems ok with the opener disconnected, but jams when connected. I don't see any ice. Top left roller seems to be as wide as it can go at the jam, top right roller is pretty much centred. I was wondering if there's some torque on the door as it's lifting. What cheeses me off most, is that the crew doing the garage renovation threw the brand new tracks in the dump, and left the old rusty ones. I think Kevin was running that crew.
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One of mine started doing the same thing. I think the chain just needs tensioning as it kinda bounces on the way up and I guess on the downward motion of the bounce the load exceeds the openers safety switch (original wooden doors). I've been lazy though and haven't adjusted it since I installed it 6 yrs ago.
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