What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 57 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

Put the DT175 up on the stand, time for a freshen up. Not doing a complete teardown. Made the task list tonight:

  • Front wheel: rebuild locked up speedo mechanism
  • Forks: replace seals and gaiters
  • Case - change soft JIS screws for stainless hex socket screws ; shifter countershaft is worn, turn and sleeve the shaft with a bushing, bore worn cover boss to fit.
  • Rear brake pedal pivot pin and boss are badly worn. Grind out pivot pin, machine and weld in replacement. Drill out pivot boss on frame, weld in a stronger tophat bushing.
  • Swingarm: turn new bronze oilite tophat bushings, modify swingarm axle to grease type.
  • Replace clutch, brake and speedo cables
  • Repaint tank, oil tank and side covers.
  • Replace front and rear fenders with UFOs.
  • Replace frozen petcock and fuel line.
  • Zinc plate various brite small parts.
  • Electrical: Switch to 12v for better lighting; add a battery; change headlight, signal and meter bulbs to led.
 
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Someone go check on Mike he might have had 1 to many beverages... :ROFLMAO:
All good now. Decided to go back into the garage to write the last post.
 
Over the last couple of days I worked on getting the carbs out of the bike. I am doing a full carb clean up.

I also changed the air filter to a K and N filter.

Here are some photos

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Finally!

Having said that, during the removal process, I realized that there is a hose that is supposed to be connected to the left side of my bikes tank, however, on my bike it was not connected.

See this photo from youtube as reference

31EA3B5D-9346-4674-9B99-1F5963153D8C.jpg

Although, on my bike, there is only one single hose, not three. Anyone know this things purpose?
 
Over the last couple of days I worked on getting the carbs out of the bike. I am doing a full carb clean up.

I also changed the air filter to a K and N filter.

Here are some photos

View attachment 54154

View attachment 54153

View attachment 54155

Finally!

Having said that, during the removal process, I realized that there is a hose that is supposed to be connected to the left side of my bikes tank, however, on my bike it was not connected.

See this photo from youtube as reference

View attachment 54156

Although, on my bike, there is only one single hose, not three. Anyone know this things purpose?
Tank overflow.
Venting.
Third is likely California emissions junk, that's why yours doesn't have it. Likely goes to a carbon canister.

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Took the tank and most of the fairings off the gsxr project...
Washed the grime out of the airbox (pre-filter). Mostly k&n oil mixed with dust...

Thinking about replacing the PAIR valve with a resistor so it doesn't throw an FI light, just to remove some useless junk and extra piping.

Might as well check the valves and replace the plugs while I'm in there.

Surprised how cheap the plugs were compared to my last few bikes. Canadian tire stocked them. Standard plugs, no fancy iridium plugs that are $25 a piece.

Planning to make a bracket and relocate the regulator to the side if the bike (stock location is behind the radiator... and they cook.
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Iridium lasts longer so you don’t have to pull the tank/air box/etc. Get an iridium 4-pack fairly cheap on eBay/amazon and for the extra $10 a set it’s worth it imo.
Oem air filter flows better than kn on those bikes and filters better. BMC Race is the only one I’ve seen to actually flow better.
Removing or blocking the PAIR valve will help stop the exhaust popping as well which is why I did it.
 
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You DO NOT want a heavy duty tube for a street bike.
They're about 4mm think and they weigh a TON

I usually get the cheapest one offered... and run over a nail about a week later
It's a KLR so yeah a street bike. I'll be looking for a thin one.
 
Iridium lasts longer so you don’t have to pull the tank/air box/etc. Get an iridium 4-pack fairly cheap on eBay/amazon and for the extra $10 a set it’s worth it imo.
Oem air filter flows better than kn on those bikes and filters better. BMC Race is the only one I’ve seen to actually flow better.
Removing or blocking the PAIR valve will help stop the exhaust popping as well which is why I did it.
I'll run the stock replacements that I already bought, but I'll remember that for next time.
Pulling the tank and airbox wasn't too bad.

The resistor thing. Seems the valve was 20 ohms, but I need to lower the voltage enough that it doesn't generate heat, but not too much resistance that the voltage is so low that the ecu throws a code.
Lots of conflicting info on the gsxr forums.

Meh... I've got some time.


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Finished detailing the old daily driver. Maguiers compound and then polish. This shot is just after Maguiers ceramic coating on paint and Mothers Back to Black on trim (both will look better tomorrow after some drying time). It was my first attempt at using compound and polish with a machine and although it could certainly be corrected further I’m happy with how it came out. To be perfect I’d need to wet sand off a bit of road line paint and flatten some rock chip touchups (maybe another day).
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Bought some Chemical Guys VRP and SC1 spray. The SC1 is perfect for the sleds as you can coat everything quickly and it looks beautiful. Have to be more selective on spots of the bike though so I coated the entire thing in VRP. This product seems to work very well and although it doesn’t come out in photos well, the “Blue Denim” paint looks fantastic in person coated in this.
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Put the DT175 up on the stand, time for a freshen up. Not doing a complete teardown. Made the task list tonight:

  • Front wheel: rebuild locked up speedo mechanism (Done)
  • Forks: replace seals and gaiters
  • Case - change soft JIS screws for stainless hex socket screws ; shifter countershaft is worn, turn and sleeve the shaft with a bushing, bore worn cover boss to fit.
  • Rear brake pedal pivot pin and boss are badly worn. Grind out pivot pin, machine and weld in replacement. Drill out pivot boss on frame, weld in a stronger tophat bushing.(Done)
  • Swingarm: turn new bronze oilite tophat bushings, modify swingarm axle to grease type. (Swingarm and bushingsout)
  • Replace clutch, brake (Done) and speedo cables
  • Repaint tank, oil tank and side covers.
  • Replace front and rear fenders with UFOs.
  • Replace frozen petcock and fuel line. (Done)
  • Zinc plate various brite small parts.
  • Electrical: Switch to 12v for better lighting; add a battery; change headlight, signal and meter bulbs to led.
 
Thought about putting the new PA bike rack together for the Rav4. But the beer bell rang.
 
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Pulled the wiring for the heated vest, a not so well done cigarette lighter, and a trickle charger off of the Wee.
Need to get it cleaned up better, do an oil filter change, since I have the dino oil and filter here, and then put her up for sale.
Will probably leave the fog lights, power block, multi ground, 2nd windshield, 2nd seat, steering damper, fork brace, steibel horn and intiminators (If they're there - I've always taken it to the shop for forks) on.
 
Got some new shoes for my dirt rims on the wr250r.

Greased the linkage. Lower shock mount has seen better days. Pretty rusty. I'm sure I'll be getting a Pivot-Works kit when they're back in stock at Fortnine.

Maintaining the linkage is simple, but often overlooked. I have to do the same thing on the '07 gsxr project.

Went for a very slippery, icey ride in the bush Thursday night. Cleaned off the muck today.

Used some PB Blaster on the spoke nipples, and tightened a few spokes that didn't quite sound right. Hollow thud rather than a metallic ting sound when you rap on them with a spoke wrench.
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Wife found a running stroller but the tires were shot. Got a deal on it but decided to replace all 3 tires and 1 tube.

Exciting I know lol.

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