Wow, not inexpensive. I hope you get a lot of use from it.Buisy bee....on sale
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What did you do in your garage today..?
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
Fun wow.
I've done a lot of wood and plastic machine, but have never done metal machining. Just started learning how to use the lathe and mill, gonna try my first project on the cnc next week.
The machine is the cheapest part of the adventure.Wow, not inexpensive. I hope you get a lot of use from it.
NOW he needs thousands and thousands in tooling and measuring devices.
OP: You're gunna want to stiffen the toolpost. It has a mild steel 8mm bolt in there... and learn how to grind HSS tools. That thing has neither the speed or power to get a decent finish with carbide. You'll constantly battle chatter, HSS is easier till you get a grip on feeds and speeds... and a LOT cheaper.
Have you seen This Old Tony's youtube videos? He did a series on that lathe.
Now he can waste good beer drinking time and money doing stuff like this
I made or modified most of the stuff in this picture, including a lot of the fasteners. I think the frame is the only stock part you can see, everything else has been changed in some way.
I don't want to admit to how much time went into it.
It's a '70 Combat Commando, that I put on a weight reduction program. I have taken about 50-55# off the bike, about a third of that in un-sprung weight (Norton wheels are HEAVY).
The pipe is one of two Norton pipes that Lang Hindle made in the early '80s... and yeah I had to cut a bunch out it so it would work, but the muffler is original. (The other pipe is on a buddy of mine's Gus Kuhn vintage racer and we went with a smaller muffler in about 1985. I have been hanging on to that muffler ever since, and I tried to get the other pipe for 35yrs. I finally got it last year. I had to give the guy a MINT MINT Dunstall 750 exhaust to get it).
I made or modified most of the stuff in this picture, including a lot of the fasteners. I think the frame is the only stock part you can see, everything else has been changed in some way.
I don't want to admit to how much time went into it.
It's a '70 Combat Commando, that I put on a weight reduction program. I have taken about 50-55# off the bike, about a third of that in un-sprung weight (Norton wheels are HEAVY).
The pipe is one of two Norton pipes that Lang Hindle made in the early '80s... and yeah I had to cut a bunch out it so it would work, but the muffler is original. (The other pipe is on a buddy of mine's Gus Kuhn vintage racer and we went with a smaller muffler in about 1985. I have been hanging on to that muffler ever since, and I tried to get the other pipe for 35yrs. I finally got it last year. I had to give the guy a MINT MINT Dunstall 750 exhaust to get it).
Damn bitzz. You should post a virtual museum sometime. Cool stuff.
Many times during project work I have always said ..gee if I had a lathe I could do that instead of buying it. I got a boring bar set, turning carbides, dial indicator and a couple more turning attachments. For what I do that's plenty. It's not a standard modern but I don't need 1200 lbs of machine or 600v issues. She will do just fine for my projects....bought some round stock...aluminum and cold rolled...boy that stuff isn't cheap..... I'm happy with my purchace, always wanted one and now I'm set....
cruiserider
Well-known member
Nice! Sold my South Bend last year, still looking for replacement
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Relax
Well-known member
I really wanted to get a mill or lathe, but couldn't decide which was more practical. You can add a turntable to a mill, and you can add a milling table to a lathe. Is one option better than the other if you can only have one? I guess the lathe lets you work on longer objects like tubes.
It depends what you are making. Imo, a mill is much more flexible than a lathe (boring head can be used for a lot of round tasks). Neither does the job of the other really well. A four jaw on a lathe can get a lot done but you will spend 95% of your time doing setup (setup part, machine one hole, setup piece again in different spot, machine next hole, etc).
Relax
Well-known member
Sounds like the start of a new thread on custom home made parts!
Bike projects are done until spring! Now what do I do?
The "done" list:
Yamaha R3 race bike
- Fix crash damage from SOAR round 5 (done)
- Oil change (done)
ZX10R, 121,2xx km
- Investigate intermittent inop starter motor. (done.) Disassembled (royal pain to get it out of the bike), no obvious fault found, plenty left on the brushes. I sanded the commutator to clean it and cleaned carbon-brush residue out of the inside of the motor and in particular out of the grooves between the commutator segments, reassembled, so far it works OK.
- Replace blown fork seal / have both forks serviced with new fork oil (done)
- Replace tires (done)
- Replace burned-out marker lamp (done)
cbr125, 68,5xx km
- Disassemble, clean, and inspect gearshift linkage, which has gone sloppy. (done.) The OEM shift knuckle, which is very cheaply made on this bike, has worn out splines and wobbles on the shift shaft and it's beyond being able to tighten with the clamp bolt. I found another shift knuckle in the spare parts bin, which is an OEM one from a different bike, but the spline pattern is the same, and as a bonus, it's shorter which will shorten the throw of the shift lever. But, the OEM ones have female threads, and the aftermarket rearsets on the bike have rod ends with male threads. I found a M6 phillips screw 25mm long in the parts bin that had a damaged head, cut the head off, threaded it into the OEM female-thread rod end with loctite ... presto, it will now adapt to the female threads of the aftermarket shift rod. Did all that, and cleaned up the rest of it. The bearings at the pivot lever have signs of dirt intrusion, but for the amount that they actually need to turn in service, they'll do ... but I now have the bearing number written down (608Z) so that I can order a few new ones. The rod end at the shift lever still has some slop in it, but that's easy to replace without taking the whole linkage apart again. At some point I'll order a M6 left-hand female thread rod end to replace that one, but for now, it'll do. The other rod ends are OK. Cleaned and re-assembled with the new shift knuckle (which is a light press-fit onto the shift shaft - no more wobbling) - shifting feels really good in the workshop ... haven't ridden it.
What does need doing, is to clean up and organise the shop.
The "done" list:
Yamaha R3 race bike
- Fix crash damage from SOAR round 5 (done)
- Oil change (done)
ZX10R, 121,2xx km
- Investigate intermittent inop starter motor. (done.) Disassembled (royal pain to get it out of the bike), no obvious fault found, plenty left on the brushes. I sanded the commutator to clean it and cleaned carbon-brush residue out of the inside of the motor and in particular out of the grooves between the commutator segments, reassembled, so far it works OK.
- Replace blown fork seal / have both forks serviced with new fork oil (done)
- Replace tires (done)
- Replace burned-out marker lamp (done)
cbr125, 68,5xx km
- Disassemble, clean, and inspect gearshift linkage, which has gone sloppy. (done.) The OEM shift knuckle, which is very cheaply made on this bike, has worn out splines and wobbles on the shift shaft and it's beyond being able to tighten with the clamp bolt. I found another shift knuckle in the spare parts bin, which is an OEM one from a different bike, but the spline pattern is the same, and as a bonus, it's shorter which will shorten the throw of the shift lever. But, the OEM ones have female threads, and the aftermarket rearsets on the bike have rod ends with male threads. I found a M6 phillips screw 25mm long in the parts bin that had a damaged head, cut the head off, threaded it into the OEM female-thread rod end with loctite ... presto, it will now adapt to the female threads of the aftermarket shift rod. Did all that, and cleaned up the rest of it. The bearings at the pivot lever have signs of dirt intrusion, but for the amount that they actually need to turn in service, they'll do ... but I now have the bearing number written down (608Z) so that I can order a few new ones. The rod end at the shift lever still has some slop in it, but that's easy to replace without taking the whole linkage apart again. At some point I'll order a M6 left-hand female thread rod end to replace that one, but for now, it'll do. The other rod ends are OK. Cleaned and re-assembled with the new shift knuckle (which is a light press-fit onto the shift shaft - no more wobbling) - shifting feels really good in the workshop ... haven't ridden it.
What does need doing, is to clean up and organise the shop.
Reminds me of my old Atlas lathe. The chucks had the BSA logos with the 3 stacked rifles. It's been replaced with a MaxiMat.Nice! Sold my South Bend last year, still looking for replacement
View attachment 52336View attachment 52338
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Where would you order that? Available locally?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
First you order a new lathe, then you turn your own titanium shift rod.
You can fit a car in the garage?????
Just. The car has to be in the garage for the winter. Otherwise, it's covered in snow every morning and freezing cold.
If you're lucky, garages can often fit one car less than the number of bays. I'm still contemplating a toy shed to free up some space in the garage.
Ha, amateurs! You need some discipline. This is two cars, five bikes and a tiny trailer in a 2 car garage. It requires liberal use of dollies to get the bikes stacked in front of the cars. The trailer is leaned up against the side wall.
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