What did you do in your garage today..?

[Ash]

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Clake has a couple of options for reducing clutch effort on hydraulic clutches. The simplest and cheapest is the Clake One Light Clutch. It uses an internal cam to reduce the effort instead of just changing the pivot point, so you still get the full clutch travel and you wouldn't have to mess with exact freeplay/engagement adjustments.

But the cam system has its own drawbacks. When the cam is providing the most assistance (when the clutch is pulled in near the bar), there is correspondingly less force pulling the clutch lever back out when you release the lever. I found the lever would tend to get "hung up" on the cam when fully pulled in and wouldn't smoothly release. I ended up adding an external coil spring fastened between the lever and the barkbuster to pull the lever back out. For the price, it really should have a small return spring built in.

 

[Relax]

The simplest and cheapest is the Clake One Light Clutch.

Yeah, but still $500. An Oberon slave cylinder is about $150, this lever is about $100, and removing two springs from the clutch is free (I removed 3 with no issues). Who knows, maybe after getting an Oberon, I may not feel the need to reduce clutch pull any further.

 

[Ash]

Yup, it's expensive for just a light clutch. I went with the Clake 2 to get a left-hand-rear-brake while still being able to retain a conventional clutch (ie: not switching to a Rekluse). The lighter clutch was mostly just a side-effect for me.

 

[Mad Mike]

Got a very hard to find conventional GL1000 seat pan and foam. Pan is Rusty!

Started the resto today.





Below the red comes out.




And some new metal but welded in.

 

[Wingboy]

Was never happy with the garage door opener lights. Put a bulb extender and a 3 panel led light from HD. Much better. I might put another one in.

 

[Mad Mike]

Fired the QT50 this morning, a squirt gas into the carb and she fired an ran on the first kick, rejetting for big bore kit appears spot on.

Still waiting for a 5" sealed beam yo arrive from Ali. Today I'll sort out wiring and the 12v conversion.

Also made a keyswitch relocation bracket. First time using a step drill.... neat tool.

 

[Mad Mike]

Was never happy with the garage door opener lights. Put a bulb extender and a 3 panel led light from HD. Much better. I might put another one in.

I'm redoing a craft room for my wife (she has a Cricut obsession). I put 3 of those panel leds in the room as worklights... they are so bright she wants to keep them.

 

[Relax]

This is what happens when you go to air up your utility cart tires that deflated over the winter and you're too lazy to put on your reading glasses and mistake the 3 for an 8 on the MAX PSI. I didn't even question the 80 after recently doing the bicycle tires. Damn, I never expected a rupture to cause so much damage to a steel rim. As luck would have it, it blew on the opposite side of the valve stem (away from me), and Princess Auto just happened to have a closeout on the same sized wheel/tube/tire assembly, so this lesson only cost me $24 instead of an arm and a leg (or eye).

 

[Baggsy]

Made a mudflap for the suspension out of some old waterproof tape. Might try and do the same on the front fender.

 

[bitzz]

Clake has a couple of options for reducing clutch effort on hydraulic clutches.

If you want a lighter lever pull on a hydraulic clutch get a master with a larger piston. Easy and CHEAP.

 

[xrljoel]

I installed a heavier shock sprint in my Husky 250 on Sunday. I had to remove the rear wheel, and the swingarm to get at the shock, but it was good because I was able to grease the linkage and inspect areas that don't get a good look.

My PA lift brought the work up to a comfortable level, the factory manual walked me through the processes and my new toque wrench and a lifetime of accumulated better-quality tools made the work a joy. Honestly, it was glorious.

After buttoning up I started the bike on the lift to warm it so I could change the oil.

At some point I accidentally hit the kill switch turning it to off.

Now the bike won't start. I've had this experience before with my 690, the kill switch has been set to ON for the entire life of the bike and corrosion has fouled the circuit. At least I hope this is what it is, I didn't do anything else but we'll see.

The glowing feeling of mindful satisfaction has dissipated, replaced with the "Jeez I hope this is the issue" angst. I hate electrical stuff.

 

[GreyGhost]

I installed a heavier shock sprint in my Husky 250 on Sunday. I had to remove the rear wheel, and the swingarm to get at the shock, but it was good because I was able to grease the linkage and inspect areas that don't get a good look.

My PA lift brought the work up to a comfortable level, the factory manual walked me through the processes and my new toque wrench and a lifetime of accumulated better-quality tools made the work a joy. Honestly, it was glorious.

After buttoning up I started the bike on the lift to warm it so I could change the oil.

At some point I accidentally hit the kill switch turning it to off.

Now the bike won't start. I've had this experience before with my 690, the kill switch has been set to ON for the entire life of the bike and corrosion has fouled the circuit. At least I hope this is what it is, I didn't do anything else but we'll see.

The glowing feeling of mindful satisfaction has dissipated, replaced with the "Jeez I hope this is the issue" angst. I hate electrical stuff.

I am assuming that the kill switch wiring runs to an accessible plug somewhere. Should be easy enough to meter those pins and check for proper switch operation (or confirm it doesn't work properly).

 

[xrljoel]

I am assuming that the kill switch wiring runs to an accessible plug somewhere. Should be easy enough to meter those pins and check for proper switch operation (or confirm it doesn't work properly).

Should do. On the KTM 690 the switch had some corrosion between the handlebar and the contact. it turned out to be an easy trail-side repair. I'm hoping (and kind of expecting) the Husky switch is the same thing as it looks like the same part. That's where I'm starting anyways in hopes of not needing to remove the still full fuel tank in particular.

I also found a leaking fork seal. Now deciding if I change them myself or drop the forks off at a shop.

 

[Gary]

I installed a heavier shock sprint in my Husky 250 on Sunday. I had to remove the rear wheel, and the swingarm to get at the shock, but it was good because I was able to grease the linkage and inspect areas that don't get a good look.

My PA lift brought the work up to a comfortable level, the factory manual walked me through the processes and my new toque wrench and a lifetime of accumulated better-quality tools made the work a joy. Honestly, it was glorious.

After buttoning up I started the bike on the lift to warm it so I could change the oil.

At some point I accidentally hit the kill switch turning it to off.

Now the bike won't start. I've had this experience before with my 690, the kill switch has been set to ON for the entire life of the bike and corrosion has fouled the circuit. At least I hope this is what it is, I didn't do anything else but we'll see.

The glowing feeling of mindful satisfaction has dissipated, replaced with the "Jeez I hope this is the issue" angst. I hate electrical stuff.

Try starting it with the throttle wide open.
I thought it was just a yami issue.
If the bike only runs a little bit from cold, the ecu gets confused, and then won't start. Twist to wot, and it should be ok.

 

[Chameleon]

50/50 shot I might be able to scoop this up from my workplace. I don't currently have a garage that I could use it in. So the opportunist in me thinks I could sell/flip it. What do we think something like this is worth?

Sell as is? Try to refinish the surface? Sand? Stain? Ditch the cabinet bits and focus on the table top as a butcher block?

 

[Chameleon]

 

[GreyGhost]

50/50 shot I might be able to scoop this up from my workplace. I don't currently have a garage that I could use it in. So the opportunist in me thinks I could sell/flip it. What do we think something like this is worth?

Sell as is? Try to refinish the surface? Sand? Stain? Ditch the cabinet bits and focus on the table top as a butcher block?

How heavy is it? Many prospective buyers won't be able to move it. Imo, probably better suited to a workbench than to remove the cabinets and try to sell it as an interior table (leg style isn't great for interior, height is awkward, etc). I have no idea on going rates, like I said, I think your buyer pool will be slightly limited by transportation restraints. You can probably get something for it but I'd be surprised if you got a lot. My opinion may change if I touched it. You can tell a lot by how it feels.

 

[Chameleon]

How heavy is it? Many prospective buyers won't be able to move it. Imo, probably better suited to a workbench than to remove the cabinets and try to sell it as an interior table (leg style isn't great for interior, height is awkward, etc). I have no idea on going rates, like I said, I think your buyer pool will be slightly limited by transportation restraints. You can probably get something for it but I'd be surprised if you got a lot. My opinion may change if I touched it. You can tell a lot by how it feels.

Pretty damn heavy. I nudged it with my hip and it barely moved. Best guess is it's gotta be like 350-400lbs

 

[Baggsy]

Kind of looks like a school science desk with a butcher block top. Might be too long for a garage.

 

[Chameleon]

Kind of looks like a school science desk with a butcher block top. Might be too long for a garage.

Yeah, from a wood shop class originally I believe. 7' or 8' long maybe.

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