Mad Mike
Well-known member
I'll need to do a little math. I think the thing tops out at 6mph, That's probably good as a starter motor.
It might be easier to fab up a small roller assy to bolt onto my MC lift.
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
It might be easier to fab up a small roller assy to bolt onto my MC lift.
Relax
Well-known member
Have you checked the safety switches/wiring, if any (kill switch, neutral, clutch, kick stand)? My brother-in-law knocked the clutch switch connector loose while dusting off the bike minutes before a buyer came to pick up the bike. We were scratching our heads for a while since it ran just fine the day before, but he installed a new battery (previous start was by boost), so we were focused on the battery and starter.
Any leaks in the carb boots? This was my problem with one of my bikes after re/re the throttle bodies, but at least I was getting some backfiring.
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Relax
Well-known member
I’ve used another bike’s rear wheel as a starter - set the two bikes up back-to-back on rear stands.
Doing 29" Craftsman 2 stage snowblower season end and storage prep today.
Few months ago auger belt snapped during a deep snow cleanup and had to do a quick repair with a CT fractional HP belt, all I could get on short notice. Huge hassle replacing belt as no clearance at bottom of auger pulley to slip new belt on. So split unit by removing upper bolts and pivoting auger housing away, putting new belt on and then spent much time getting housing to align properly so bolts would go back in. All of this while kneeling on the cold garage floor.
Much simpler process today. Blower on bike lift, lower plate removed (the one you'd remove to do drive / friction disk maintenance) providing lots of clearance to just slip belt off old belt off and then slip new one on the pulley, no split housing, so no hassle aligning things or supporting weight of the motor housing. Wish I'd thought of this workaround a few months ago.
Few months ago auger belt snapped during a deep snow cleanup and had to do a quick repair with a CT fractional HP belt, all I could get on short notice. Huge hassle replacing belt as no clearance at bottom of auger pulley to slip new belt on. So split unit by removing upper bolts and pivoting auger housing away, putting new belt on and then spent much time getting housing to align properly so bolts would go back in. All of this while kneeling on the cold garage floor.
Much simpler process today. Blower on bike lift, lower plate removed (the one you'd remove to do drive / friction disk maintenance) providing lots of clearance to just slip belt off old belt off and then slip new one on the pulley, no split housing, so no hassle aligning things or supporting weight of the motor housing. Wish I'd thought of this workaround a few months ago.
I also needed a new belt for mine during one of the last snow falls.
Could not find a 34.5 inch drive belt in kevlar.
Apparently the half inch in the 34 is next to non existent. Had to settle for standard rubber
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I have a decent spark, the carb boot is new.
Belts and sheer pins are always good to have a spare on hand because when you need them you really need them right away. It’s also a good idea to learn how to make these repairs ahead of time so you know how it’s done when it’s time.
I just pulled my new one apart so I know how to fix/replace wear parts. I’d rather learn it in the warmth instead of freezing cold. YouTube is always your friend for snowblower repairs and Partswarehouse.com has schematics for pretty much everything (appliances included) so it’s easier to figure out.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
W
How do you get the clay bar into all those rolled beads?
When you have a 1 and 2yr old running around destroying in the house you make time to Maguiers Ultimate Wax and Chemical Guys VPR the snowblower so you get some quiet time.
I did this week before last….found that my chute adjustment cable is toast (thankfully it worked the last time I needed it). The price of a replacement is insane, so I might just do a manual adjustment hack with a plastic knob instead.
Seeing some rust on the moving parts of mine, and the gas doesn't drain out of the tank completely.
It started, ran a couple of seconds then died, about five times in a row.
I want to look for some shear pins to keep handy for next year.
Curious, how old is your blower and did you ever lube the cable(s).
You should post a picture of the cable, maybe someone here can advise how to fabricate a replacement.
It’s only 2 years old! It was mis-routed and way too close to the engine….cover melted and it corroded. Was actually fine until I re-routed it….then it crapped out.
Snowmobile chaincase oil plug. Looks like I’ll be digging deeper than just an oil change this time.
Changed the leaking clearance lights on the van. Hope I never have to do that again.
Sent from the future
Sent from the future
Relax
Well-known member
Last minute wrenching before we leave on our moto-trip tomorrow, oil change, did the oversize tank last week.
Put in these levers from Midwest Mountain Engineering:
They're supposed to reduce clutch pull effort by 50% due by shortening the pivot-to-pivot distance.
Nice! This is the first I've seen of a lever that reduces effort on a hydraulic master. I know I can mess around with a new slave cylinder or lighter (or removed) springs, but I need a new lever anyways. I sent them a message to see if they can tell me which Brembo MC(s) they're designed for rather than just a list of compatible bikes. Fingers crossed...
So I've spent a lot of time with the MME clutch the past few weeks and it truly does reduce the effort. I'm pretty much doing single-finger pulls all the time.
However, the adjustment to balance free play and clutch engagement is so finicky (plus I'm a bit of a doofus when it comes to mechanical stuff). You have to do all the adjustments when the clutch plates have warmed up and expanded, which is fine. But what I'm finding is that when the bike is cold, the clutch is not fully disengaged when the lever is pulled in to the bar. Adjust the engagement out too much when it's cold and the clutch slips when the plates get up to temp.
I'm sure I just need to play around with it a bit more, the two pivot points means that you've got to be very precise with both free-play adjustment and clutch engagement point.
Reading up the reviews on the web, it seems I'm not the only one. Fair warning...
Relax
Well-known member
Yup. Those levers work on the, uh, lever principle. By changing the pivot point, you get more leverage but less travel, and therefore less fluid moved. At least it can be adjusted, unlike a larger slave cylinder.
On the other hand, the company is being very uncooperative, or at least the person I'm speaking to. I asked which Brembo MC's the levers were designed for to see if mine was compatible, but they don't seem to know. They asked for pictures of my lever to compare. I expected more form a company with "Engineering" in their name.
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