Aluminum plate from Amazon. Quality looks to be decent but install was a little PITA. Not looking forward to the next oil change as this plate will need to come off for it.
Installed a new K-Tech shock with all the clickers and adjustments on the trackbike. It probably won't make me go much faster, but it's very shiny and clean and pretty in comparison to the stock shock.
I also realized that I made a mistake. What I should have done was pull the forks off last fall and send them to Accelerated Technologies to be serviced over the winter. What I actually did was nothing, thinking that I'd just do it myself in the spring. I've done street bike forks before, but these K-Tech cartridges require at least 3 different specialized tools that I will need to buy or fabricate.
Aluminum plate from Amazon. Quality looks to be decent but install was a little PITA. Not looking forward to the next oil change as this plate will need to come off for it.
late to this one but the KTM OEM skid plate for my bike needs to be removed every time for an oil change too. What I need to do and what a lot of others have done is dremel in an access notch so you don’t need to keep removing it.
Fixed my Denali air horn today. Was dreading this one as I didn’t know if it was fuse (easy), relay (tad more difficult) or the tap-in to the horn wire (can I remember how I did this originally?). Turns out it was a simple fix. Corroded relay. Replaced it and taped it up a little more snuggly and hid it a bit deeper under the farings. Got my train horn back! Watch out drivers.
If anyone is thinking about adding one of these I can highly recommend the Denali split air horn and a wiring harness too. Makes things a lot simpler to mount with a split air horn and swapping a relay out is just unplug and plug back in.
late to this one but the KTM OEM skid plate for my bike needs to be removed every time for an oil change too. What I need to do and what a lot of others have done is dremel in an access notch so you don’t need to keep removing it.
Fixed my Denali air horn today. Was dreading this one as I didn’t know if it was fuse (easy), relay (tad more difficult) or the tap-in to the horn wire (can I remember how I did this originally?). Turns out it was a simple fix. Corroded relay. Replaced it and taped it up a little more snuggly and hid it a bit deeper under the farings. Got my train horn back! Watch out drivers.
If anyone is thinking about adding one of these I can highly recommend the Denali split air horn and a wiring harness too. Makes things a lot simpler to mount with a split air horn and swapping a relay out is just unplug and plug back in.
The air horn is a Denali Soundbomb Split Airhorn. I think Motorcycle Innovations sell one. Pricey but it’s lasted a while. Initially when it wasn’t working I thought it might be the compressor but it’s fine. I couldn’t fit the all-in-one unit anywhere and what I’d read about separating the main compressor and the air horn from regular units led me to this model. Mine is mounted behind the passenger pegs on one side using a few large zip ties. The horn part is nearer the front of the bike.
Got the DRZ washed, chain lubed, and started for the first time since October
Somehow broke the right rear blinker off over the winter. They are DRC 602's and appear to be hard to find now. Its been years since I heard the name Kimpex but it says they have them so I've bought two sets to last me another decade or so...
Got the DRZ washed, chain lubed, and started for the first time since October
Somehow broke the right rear blinker off over the winter. They are DRC 602's and appear to be hard to find now. Its been years since I heard the name Kimpex but it says they have them so I've bought two sets to last me another decade or so...
Next up for me is getting the SP125 running (street version of the DR125). I cleaner her up over the winter, with new paint, and a 150cc big bore kit and a new seat cover (. The 125cc factory setup maxed out at 115kmh, I'm hoping for 125@8000rpm in 6th, which makes me comfortable commuting to work on 80kmh back roads.
First time I've been stumped in a long time -- compression good, spark good, valve lash good, cam timing checked 4 times - good, carb good, but it won't fire. It's a kick-only bike, if I kick any more Im gonna need a new knee.
Anyone have suggestions or experience with Suzy 125s?
Next up for me is getting the SP125 running (street version of the DR125). I cleaner her up over the winter, with new paint, and a 150cc big bore kit and a new seat cover (. The 125cc factory setup maxed out at 115kmh, I'm hoping for 125@8000rpm in 6th, which makes me comfortable commuting to work on 80kmh back roads.
First time I've been stumped in a long time -- compression good, spark good, valve lash good, cam timing checked 4 times - good, carb good, but it won't fire. It's a kick-only bike, if I kick any more Im gonna need a new knee.
Anyone have suggestions or experience with Suzy 125s?
Tried firing it on propane with gas off in case fueling is messed up? Timing in the ballpark?
As for kick only, maybe now's the time to build a rear wheel starter with a go-kart tire. You have a lot of projects, that can help you get higher revs to get them to run so you can dial in the tune.
Tried firing it on propane with gas off in case fueling is messed up? Timing in the ballpark?
As for kick only, maybe now's the time to build a rear wheel starter with a go-kart tire. You have a lot of projects, that can help you get higher revs to get them to run so you can dial in the tune.
I like the rear wheel starter idea, I have 5 kick-start-only bikes, never fun when there's a no-start problem.
I was thinking my Lance Armstrong treadmill would be more useful as a starter tool than a decoration in my basement -- need to figure out how to run it in reverse.
I like the rear wheel starter idea, I have 5 kick-start-only bikes, never fun when there's a no-start problem.
I was thinking my Lance Armstrong treadmill would be more useful as a starter tool than a decoration in my basement -- need to figure out how to run it in reverse.
Iirc, many treadmills use a dc drive. If that's the case, reverse is easy. Alternately, take the tower and rails off, relocate control and you should be able to start bikes going forward as you have space.
Tried firing it on propane with gas off in case fueling is messed up? Timing in the ballpark?
As for kick only, maybe now's the time to build a rear wheel starter with a go-kart tire. You have a lot of projects, that can help you get higher revs to get them to run so you can dial in the tune.
This one really has me stumped. There isn't even a sputter or backfire. I rebuilt an old TK carb tonight, I'll swap that in tomorrow to eliminate fueling. Im gonna recheck the stator and add a battery -- Suzi PEI should run straight off the stator, but maybe the road version does need a battery. I have a DR125 bike that has a good running motor, I'll use that as a reference and maybe swap a few parts over.
I'm typically a root cause guy, I don't normally swap parts to troubleshoot. But I'm stumped, these are stupid simple engines, they normally run with everything out of whack -- just can't figure this one out!
This time of year is for riding, not fixing!
Not sure what's next up... I have 3 on deck to restore. 75 RD125, 74 Jawa 350 Californian, and 69 Triumph TR25W. They are all runners, the Triumph mechanical rebuild is done, it needs paint and seat recover. The Yammie and Jawa need tires, cables and startup service -- they are body good and runners.
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