Trying something new

canuckwr250 said:
The Q2s run wider,if I were just riding in parking lots and track I would go with SM slicks but Im blue plated so I ride street quite often.I dont think you posted how wide your wheels are,but it looks like it would be tight unless you can pull your wheel back some more.Here are my rims.
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Its a 5" rim, I think Im going to go have a look at the Dunlop slicks tomorrow....And it looks like the chain side is going to be the rear issue, I might have to make some spacers for the sprockets...I can pull the wheel back and get good clearance for the swingarm, but the chain is close...
 
Worked on some of the finishing touches tonight, to be ready for riding next weekend hopefully.

Here you can see the slight difference of 9mm diameter for the rotor adapter, my friend is going to machine me a new one this week
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I also modified some stuff, added bar end sliders, machined up some spacers for axle sliders, and fit the handgurads....Will have them all anodized black when the rotor bracket is done
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If you arent going to be running on the street just get some dunlop slicks and you will be gold. They will last you a long time since you are just starting with supermoto. Dunlops have the best side profile for fitting narrow. The michelins mushroom over the sides a lot - makes it hard to get rid of the chicken strips!
Also a tip with your chain guide, if it bolts to your swingarm with the nuts on inside swap the bolt to a flat head and countersink the chain guide from the inside. This will give you more clearance and make taking the wheel out much easier. here is a how to: http://www.supermotoracer.com/SMR%20Tech%20stories/iss13_tech_chainguide.html
 
jerrett said:
If you arent going to be running on the street just get some dunlop slicks and you will be gold. They will last you a long time since you are just starting with supermoto. Dunlops have the best side profile for fitting narrow. The michelins mushroom over the sides a lot - makes it hard to get rid of the chicken strips!
Also a tip with your chain guide, if it bolts to your swingarm with the nuts on inside swap the bolt to a flat head and countersink the chain guide from the inside. This will give you more clearance and make taking the wheel out much easier. here is a how to: http://www.supermotoracer.com/SMR%20Tech%20stories/iss13_tech_chainguide.html
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Yes I decided to go buy the Dunlop slicks after work, but I doubt they will last long....People said the same thing about the Dunlop N-tec slicks when I tried those, but Im pretty confident with sport bike leaning and sliding/drifting...So they looked like this after 2 days at the track...From the little bit of SM I got to try I find the SM way easier to slide, so Im pretty confident I will pick that up quick and trash tires quickly..
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Thanks for the tip about the chain guide, I had to remove it just to install the wheel without the tire on it...The loc nuts on the inside stuck out and were in the way, and I didnt want to scratch the rims right out of the box
 
the SM slicks are much different than the N-TEC design..

They'll last forever, and SM bike is COMPLETELY different than a sportbike, it stores much less energy in the suspension and will not eat tires like a 600 will

I can easily burn up a set of slicks in a day on a 600 or 1000.

With the SM tires, I raced an entire season, racing the Eastern US and Canadian Supermoto series, plus teaching/riding at a nearby US track and won a national championship on 5 tires(not 5 sets) 2 fronts, 3 rears.

This was on the bridgestone,, the dunlop is a better, more durable tire as well.
 
reciprocity said:
the SM slicks are much different than the N-TEC design..

They'll last forever, and SM bike is COMPLETELY different than a sportbike, it stores much less energy in the suspension and will not eat tires like a 600 will

I can easily burn up a set of slicks in a day on a 600 or 1000.

With the SM tires, I raced an entire season, racing the Eastern US and Canadian Supermoto series, plus teaching/riding at a nearby US track and won a national championship on 5 tires(not 5 sets) 2 fronts, 3 rears.

This was on the bridgestone,, the dunlop is a better, more durable tire as well.
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Interesting what is the compund like then compared to a N-tec 3434, much harder? Pro6 lists the SM as a 515 rear

Also how will this work on loose pavement or dirt if I make it there? I remember seeing people used to cut grooves in SM slicks, is that something still popular?
 
the grooving is not for loose surface tration, it's actually to generate heat on the asphalt for grip.

The grooving makes the rubber move, causing friction, friction=heat.

you will have more traction than you expect with slicks on dirt.

there is enough traction to flip over that bike from a standing start
 
reciprocity said:
the grooving is not for loose surface tration, it's actually to generate heat on the asphalt for grip.

The grooving makes the rubber move, causing friction, friction=heat.

you will have more traction than you expect with slicks on dirt.

there is enough traction to flip over that bike from a standing start
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Thanks so do they still do that? Or are SM slicks better now so grooving is not required
 
you won't need to do it with the dunlops.

My tire groove tool was used about 5 times for riding in cold weather.
 
So I just got back from buying the Dunlop slicks, they didnt have the front in a SM specific so I got the closest in a Superbike slick. And the rear they only had 2 left, and told me due to lack of sales here they will not be getting anymore :( That really sucks, because if I end up liking these tires I will not be able to buy them locally anymore...Does anyone know of any other suppliers here or in the US for them?

And I really see what you guys mean about fitting smaller, the rear 170 sidewall has barely any angle to it...It looks like its will not stick out past the rim edge much at all.....

Its also pretty cool it comes marked with lines on it for grooving
 
Also I forgot to ask them what they recommend for tire pressure in these tires...Does anyone have any suggestions with what to start with?

Also for chain adjustment the manual says 2-2.3inchs, on sport bikes I like to run on the tight side. For SM should I stick to the manual specs?
 
Looks like I will need to offset my sprockets about 1-2 mm....And I wont be using my green Kawasaki chain, a DID ERV3 will give me another 1mm of clearance as the green chain is 2mm wider...
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I also had to trim the fork guards to clear the front tire, otherwise they fit good
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run the chain a bit tighter than manual specs if you're doing asphalt only.

for pressures, what rear do you that?? the 950 compound??

21-22 cold pressures is what I ran with the 950 rear(I've got 2 sets available if you want them,,, CHEAP)

I ran 25PSI in the front, but that was with the 16.5in, 465 compound, supermoto specific tire,, not sure what SBK front you have so I can't make a recommendation.

Call Pro 6, they'll have the proper info for you, you'll probably have to adjust for feel with the superbike front however as it's a different construction than the SM specific front.


PS,,, When can I ride this thing??? :p
 
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reciprocity said:
run the chain a bit tighter than manual specs if you're doing asphalt only.

for pressures, what rear do you that?? the 950 compound??

21-22 cold pressures is what I ran with the 950 rear(I've got 2 sets available if you want them,,, CHEAP)

I ran 25PSI in the front, but that was with the 16.5in, 465 compound, supermoto specific tire,, not sure what SBK front you have so I can't make a recommendation.

Call Pro 6, they'll have the proper info for you, you'll probably have to adjust for feel with the superbike front however as it's a different construction than the SM specific front.


PS,,, When can I ride this thing??? :p
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Rear is a 170/55 KR108 515 compound
Front is 125/80 KR448F 32M3 compound, they said its the closest thing they had in stock to the SM front...

You can show me how its done after I drop it at least once...

What would you do about the chain? let it rub a little and make its own clearance or space the sprockets out 1-2mm?

And I remember you telling me to stiffen up the suspension, and Ryan mentioned that also while I was chatting to him during the purchase...What setting exactly should I stiffen? and how much to start generally? I hate suspension, eventually Im going to have a professional set me up...

Thanks!
 
mannnnnnn that thing is so sick!!!!

Suspension is tricky, I'm always learning about it, but the best thing I ever did was get it professionally set up for my use, weight and riding ability. The biggest difference ever in a bike... Its like a totally different machine this year!
 
rmemedic said:
mannnnnnn that thing is so sick!!!!

Suspension is tricky, I'm always learning about it, but the best thing I ever did was get it professionally set up for my use, weight and riding ability. The biggest difference ever in a bike... Its like a totally different machine this year!
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Yeah when I tired track suspension was my biggest issue, as I got faster if felt like the bike did not want to do what I was trying to make it do...It felt like I had to fight the bike.
 
Anyone ever have problems with the Dunlop SM tires holding air....The front is fine but the rear lost all the air over night, I pumped it up again a few hours ago and it dropped from 25 to 15 in a few hours...
 
reciprocity said:
check the bead!
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Thats where its leaking, but in multiple spots, and I cleaned the bead before installing....So I just dont get it...Never had this happen in that many spots on the rim before...

I know you can damage the bead with irons if you put to much stress on the tire, but its happening where the valve is and thats where I started putting the tire on and an iron never touched there
 
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