The REAL cost of owning a motorcycle…

[silent_vik]

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4 years. 3 bikes. approx. $25K includes bikes, gear, gas, insurance, misc. parts and maintainance.
$10,500 for bikes
$5,688 for insurance

could have done some things differently to save a bit more coin but mehh. live and learn

 

[gixxer_dave]

Great writeup Dave

By the way I am enjoying the 2Brs slipon.

Great to hear! I'm glad you like it. I hope you guys got in as much riding this season as I did!

 

[gixxer_dave]

4 years. 3 bikes. approx. $25K includes bikes, gear, gas, insurance, misc. parts and maintainance.
$10,500 for bikes
$5,688 for insurance

could have done some things differently to save a bit more coin but mehh. live and learn

Wow, 3 bikes in 4 years? I hope I don't go through them that quick, but, who knows... That's quite the haul of money when you add multiple years, can't wait for my Season #2 to begin...

Good ol' insurance. Sometimes I wonder if it's better to live your life without ever making a claim, or, to make the odd claim and get back some of the money you put in...

 

[nesobriquet]

Spark Plugs,………………………………………………….$49.67

Among a few other really needless expenses..this one was a real rip..just trying to save you 50 mounties after the next 11k km..
Hope you kept the old plugs..keep them dry and install about 40 or 50k from now.

 

[gixxer_dave]

Among a few other really needless expenses..this one was a real rip..just trying to save you 50 mounties after the next 11k km..
Hope you kept the old plugs..keep them dry and install about 40 or 50k from now.

I agree with you. I was wondering why the service manual said to replace them at 12,000 km... But, seeing as this is my first bike, and I'm new to motorcycling... I'm taking a rather conservative approach and following the recommended scheduled maintenance as best I can.
I do have the old plugs in my box full of stock parts, so, I will definitely hold on to them

 

[funrider]

Very realistic, nice thread. Now is the time for somebody to add track cost, this is my next step.

From a track noob – track day need not be too expensive when you start. You will have some one-time costs whether you do 1 or 100 track days. Depending on your street riding gear, how you get the bike and gear to the track etc…you will need for track (my track cost experience from memory):

Leathers - $400 (from Pannon – this deal was a super one-off)
Gauntlet Gloves - $40ish (1/2 price sale)
Boots - $300 (sale)
Back Protector: 60
Stand spools - $20
Stand - $30
Water Wetter + demineralised water - $25 (you will lots of WW additive left over)
Tape - $2
Trailer Hitch installed - $350
Ramp - $30ish (sale)
Wheel Chock - $40 (sale)
Various ratchet straps - $40 (sale)
You will need to have – gas jerry can, cooler, canopy, lawn chair.

My one time costs add to about $1300 - $1400 if I remembered everything. Whether I go once or 100 times, these were my fixed costs. Try to buy sales and off season too.

My direct daily track day costs are:

Uhaul trailer - $22 (5 by 8 for 24 hours)
Track fee - $100 (TMP)
Premium fuel - $30
Gas to and from track - $80 (car demands premium)

Direct track day expenses – about $230 (at TMP, coming from Toronto). Because I take up a buddy and his bike, we share gas and trailer – so $180ish.

You will have other extra costs such as tires (needing new ones more often) and more frequent oil changes – depending on number of track days you do and whether your bike is a daily driver like mine (a ’08 zx-6r). This bike is more than enough ‘out of the box” for me – no mods needed – this is where it can get stupid expensive. You may need to service the brakes more often too. I changed the front pads at 16000km – and they still had a lot of life left in them. Previous owner rode light it seems.

I won’t get into repair costs if you drop the bike…I’ve had one minor off (low sided on turn 9) and cracked the plastics, ground the brake peddle and frame slider etc… but the bike was 100% rideable – cosmetic damage.

The above are the basics for me – once you want to kick it up a notch – the sky’s the limit and I won’t get into that as it’s limitless (power commander, trailer, tire warmers, generator, race fuel, etc….) My kids friend Eden O’Shell – well, what they spend on race fuel for the day is what I spend on the ENTIRE track day – so there you go.

Oh yeah – the smile on your face when you put down a good lap – priceless.

 

[ItIsWhatItIs]

Hmmmm, yeah hmmmmm, and yeah

I have a cbr125, rode last year (about 8 months). I will get in 8 months this year. I Ride 120 km a day. I save a $11 dollars a day in fuel over my gas guzzling car. 16 months X 4 weeks = 64 X 5 = 320 = 3520!!! in fuel savings. :thumbup:

 

[ZX600]

... If this list is the exact same as someone else's list, please PM your phone number, because I think I've found my soul mate!!!)

pm sent :agave:

 

[CruisnGrrl]

my first year course 400$, gear 500, insurance 1000, bike 1000 + $100 for some bits here and there

 

[training_wheels]

Price of riding.... Priceless...

Btw

Gorgeous bike dude

 

[Prince]

Great post OP. I have to laugh at the Suzuki bashing, and in the same posts "nice bike man." It's a Gixxer! All this Gixxer bashing makes me enjoy Duc hunting while on the road. Five years from now, Ducs will no longer be in fashion. The big four will always be there churning out bikes that win races. Even with Rossi, Ducati can't win a race. And finally admit defeat in the design of this bike that uses the engine as part of the frame. The Gixxer has been around forever, and they're grenade proof. They don't break, and for the money you will not find a better bang!

Note (OP): They want you to change the plugs at 11 KM's to ensure the seal between the plugs and the cylinder head is broken. Plugs that are left in too long will eventually weld themselves to the cyl head. And I can't tell you the sounds I've heard from fellow mechanics as a drill enters the cyl head to get the plug out, and an oversized tap is thread into the aluminum head. It's something that you most definately want to avoid at all cost!

Again, great post!

 

[nesobriquet]

I agree with you. I was wondering why the service manual said to replace them at 12,000 km... But, seeing as this is my first bike, and I'm new to motorcycling... I'm taking a rather conservative approach and following the recommended scheduled maintenance as best I can.
I do have the old plugs in my box full of stock parts, so, I will definitely hold on to them

Since it is an R6 we are talking about, and it having a very high revving engine, plug life could be shortened a bit over other lower rpm engines. My 40-50k remark, perhaps could read more like 25-30k.

 

[nesobriquet]

Five years from now, Ducs will no longer be in fashion.

Note (OP): They want you to change the plugs at 11 KM's to ensure the seal between the plugs and the cylinder head is broken. Plugs that are left in too long will eventually weld themselves to the cyl head.

"Five years from now, Ducs will no longer be in fashion"
You're not serious I hope when you typed that? Aesthetics aside even for those that don't appreciate Ducati's unique frame styling (no one else does a truss frame worthy of mention in my opinion) there isn't another sporting big twin that runs quite like a Ducati does. Ride one and go up and down through the gears and you (might) see what I mean. They give whole new meaning to valve actuation control, albeit a bit labour-intensive to adjust, but the engine (and chassis FTM) has a character that is not easily duplicated.
However, if, when shopping for a car and you could afford an upscale model, but question the expense over...say.. a Civic, and test drive them both but you happen to not be able to feel the difference in the driving dynamics between a 3 series BMW and the Honda, and rate them both basic A to B modes of transportation, then you definitely won't get the example I suggested above.

"Plugs that are left in too long will eventually weld themselves to the cyl head."

I have wondered this also, but there seems to be many misconceptions out there depending on who you ask. But if they merely wanted the seal broken, why not instruct owners to loosen and re-torque the same plugs?

Here is an excerpt I copied off the net a while back that others I have asked since have backed up, and is good advice. The most common reason people have 'seized' plugs is if they try to remove a hot plug. Reason explained below.

<Here are a couple of tips to help assure the success of changing spark plugs. The first is to remove spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads only when the engine is cool. Since aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates, removing spark plugs from an aluminum cylinder head while hot can actually cause thread and cylinder head damage. Before installing the spark plugs, make sure the threads are clean and in good condition. If in doubt, run a thread chaser through the plug opening in the cylinder head. Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory. Next, install the spark plugs finger tight and, it using a taper seat spark plug, use a ratchet to rotate 1/16 of a turn. If using a gasket seat type spark plug, after installing finger tight, turn 1/4 to 5/8 of a turn. If this procedure is followed, spark plugs will not back out nor will they seize in the cylinder head.>

 

[dricked]

Change your plugs when you do a valve adj (20,000km).

 

[Reaperracing]

Greetings,

Oh, and let’s not forget, Step 7 – Do my research and dreaming, and make a list of things to buy over the long and cold winter months J Sometimes I wish the spending would slow down, but, hey, it’s all worth it.

Factory Pro Velocity Stacks,………………..$225.00 (estimated)
Dynojet Autotune,………………………………..$220.00 (estimated)
Dyno Tuning,………………………………………..$500.00+
Frame Sliders,……………………………………..$116.99 (estimated)
BMC High Flow Air Filter,…………………….$75.95
Riding courses to advance my skills:….$1000+…
Race Bike and all the fixings..............Sky's the limit!

cheers,
Dave from Kitchener, Ontario
(Gixxer_Dave)

Dave allow me to inform you if you want to throw money away ill take it......
"Factory Pro Velocity Stacks,………………..$225.00 (estimated)- Waste of cash...u can get short stacks for 50 or a combo of short and long for the same 50...depends where u want the power band personally i have tried them... better money spent else where
All stacks do is position your torque in a specific rev range.
Short pipes = torque in high rpm
long pipes = torque in lower rpm
Combination of both (stock) gives you a more rounded performance.
There is no real 'con', you dont lose power, you are just sacrificing 'ridability' for a higher peak torque at a specific RPM. So unless you ride the bike at the RPM all the time you wont be getting much of a gain.


Dynojet Autotune,………………………………..$220.00 (estimated)
Dyno Tuning,………………………………………..$500.00+

^^1 or the other brother a good dyno tuner will cost some $$ but...think of this a bike on a dyno cant account for the ram air ...the faster u go the more lean an engine will become,,,due to the higher air being pushed through the air box. a really good tuner will account for this.....do RESEARCH before making the choice of who will tune your bike properly vs just putting it on a dyno and do a dog and pony show and charge u $$$

dyno autotune might be ok...im on the fence with them....i do a lot of my own fooling around with the maps with my busa...i like to run it a bit rich...some people say its too rich at idle...but when at top speed its about right with the ram air...eg id rather run a bit rich to be safe...due to blowing a hole in the pistion(s)at higher sppeds and full rebuild isnt something i wish to have to do

ill say once again research research research...find out what works for others and whta doesnt....talk to engine builders and dyno tuners......u might have to wade through a lot of BS and internet wanna be experts but in the end you will make the right decisions

 

[EngineerJoe]

Dave, great post! Thank you. Even the layout was well done and made it easy to read.

Edit: BTW, that's a beautiful GSX-R

I think the numbers here are misleading*. I got into the sport while unemployed and didn't spend nearly the amount listed here.

I have to disagree, I think the post was laid out quite well. Step 1 and 2 is something we'll all go through when entering motorcycling, from there, you can choose how you proceed with the following steps. I think I stopped after step 3 (no mods done to my bike this year) which is why I haven't spent $15,000+ on my bike/license this year. Someone entering the sport could easily use this as a guideline and start cutting costs from what was posted (lower priced used bike, used gear, no mods, etc.).

 

[RockerGuy]

You forgot the most important, TICKET! Because sometime, its just impossible to follow that speed limit of 80km/h, or some other time, you really need to go fast to pass that dude going 60 in a 80 speed limit...just to feel better after!

4years still no ticket (yeah, I don't really do what I said anyway)
Outside of monthly payment and gas, motorcycles cost as much cars.

7yrs now...
No ticket, haven't even been issued one or had to go to court to fight. The 2 times I were stopped, the cops were bikers too. I think they were checking out my bike.

Knock on wood!!!!

I received all my tickets in the car, believe it or not. Had to fight it.

I also ride a SS, but just don't go "all out retarded"! O' yeh, I started on a 600

 

[inyaknow]

I went the cheap-ish route and still ended up within 3 grand of that number. I attribute that to my gear-whorish ways, though haha.

It's not that misleading once you account for everything. It's a little on the high end but it's not that far off at all.

There's the obvious savings in getting a cheaper first bike...but one could argue that it could be offset by the inevitable upgrade to a sexier bike. Gear is where you really get screwed, though.

I agree with the general gist of the post, but I'm a bit of a gear nazi

1 - purchase new bike in Aug 2010 all in financing = $10 775.00
2 - servicing since then (I do most of the work) = $711.00
3 - accessories (slip on, tail tiddy, solo seat) + gear = $4387.00

 

[gixxer_dave]

From a track noob – track day need not be too expensive when you start. You will have some one-time costs whether you do 1 or 100 track days. Depending on your street riding gear, how you get the bike and gear to the track etc…you will need for track (my track cost experience from memory):

Leathers - $400 (from Pannon – this deal was a super one-off)
Gauntlet Gloves - $40ish (1/2 price sale)
Boots - $300 (sale)
Back Protector: 60
Stand spools - $20
Stand - $30
Water Wetter + demineralised water - $25 (you will lots of WW additive left over)
Tape - $2
Trailer Hitch installed - $350
Ramp - $30ish (sale)
Wheel Chock - $40 (sale)
Various ratchet straps - $40 (sale)
You will need to have – gas jerry can, cooler, canopy, lawn chair.

My one time costs add to about $1300 - $1400 if I remembered everything. Whether I go once or 100 times, these were my fixed costs. Try to buy sales and off season too.

My direct daily track day costs are:

Uhaul trailer - $22 (5 by 8 for 24 hours)
Track fee - $100 (TMP)
Premium fuel - $30
Gas to and from track - $80 (car demands premium)

Direct track day expenses – about $230 (at TMP, coming from Toronto). Because I take up a buddy and his bike, we share gas and trailer – so $180ish.

You will have other extra costs such as tires (needing new ones more often) and more frequent oil changes – depending on number of track days you do and whether your bike is a daily driver like mine (a ’08 zx-6r). This bike is more than enough ‘out of the box” for me – no mods needed – this is where it can get stupid expensive. You may need to service the brakes more often too. I changed the front pads at 16000km – and they still had a lot of life left in them. Previous owner rode light it seems.

I won’t get into repair costs if you drop the bike…I’ve had one minor off (low sided on turn 9) and cracked the plastics, ground the brake peddle and frame slider etc… but the bike was 100% rideable – cosmetic damage.

The above are the basics for me – once you want to kick it up a notch – the sky’s the limit and I won’t get into that as it’s limitless (power commander, trailer, tire warmers, generator, race fuel, etc….) My kids friend Eden O’Shell – well, what they spend on race fuel for the day is what I spend on the ENTIRE track day – so there you go.

Oh yeah – the smile on your face when you put down a good lap – priceless.

Wow. Thanks for taking the time to lay out the costs. I'm debiting using my street bike for track use because the cost of the track bike is really where the big costs are added. But, I like the low(ish) costs associated with using a street bike on the track (obviously, not considering any accidents that may occur )... I don't know if I can afford to drop another 10k+ next season to get track ready!!!

 

[gixxer_dave]

That's disappointing news about the stacks... A good buddy of mine has always sworn by them on all three of his R6's... but, stacks are half price for an R6 as compared to a Gsxr tho.... I guess I'll be forwarding you the money that I planned on throwing away ...

Also, I thought I'd start with an autotune, since I already have the PC5... then, if that doesn't do the trick, start, as you say, research researching researching reputable dyno tuners.

Thanks for the feedback and wisdom

Dave allow me to inform you if you want to throw money away ill take it......
"Factory Pro Velocity Stacks,………………..$225.00 (estimated)- Waste of cash...u can get short stacks for 50 or a combo of short and long for the same 50...depends where u want the power band personally i have tried them... better money spent else where
All stacks do is position your torque in a specific rev range.
Short pipes = torque in high rpm
long pipes = torque in lower rpm
Combination of both (stock) gives you a more rounded performance.
There is no real 'con', you dont lose power, you are just sacrificing 'ridability' for a higher peak torque at a specific RPM. So unless you ride the bike at the RPM all the time you wont be getting much of a gain.


Dynojet Autotune,………………………………..$220.00 (estimated)
Dyno Tuning,………………………………………..$500.00+

^^1 or the other brother a good dyno tuner will cost some $$ but...think of this a bike on a dyno cant account for the ram air ...the faster u go the more lean an engine will become,,,due to the higher air being pushed through the air box. a really good tuner will account for this.....do RESEARCH before making the choice of who will tune your bike properly vs just putting it on a dyno and do a dog and pony show and charge u $$$

dyno autotune might be ok...im on the fence with them....i do a lot of my own fooling around with the maps with my busa...i like to run it a bit rich...some people say its too rich at idle...but when at top speed its about right with the ram air...eg id rather run a bit rich to be safe...due to blowing a hole in the pistion(s)at higher sppeds and full rebuild isnt something i wish to have to do

ill say once again research research research...find out what works for others and whta doesnt....talk to engine builders and dyno tuners......u might have to wade through a lot of BS and internet wanna be experts but in the end you will make the right decisions

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