OP:
Don't bother trying to save the thread.
Tis long gone
Don't bother trying to save the thread.
Tis long gone
|
|
|
Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set?
- Thread starter sburns
- Start date
so far OP has been using crappy CTC chineseium drills. NO GO
ANY cobalt or carbide drill will be an improvement of ANYTHING CTC has to offer, and WILL drill this bolt.
I'm not offering lessons in metallurgy, I'm trying to get the guy to buy a drill that will do the job.
... those 8mm CTC drill broke because they bent, because they weren't ridgid enough for OP's drilling prowess.
Agreed.
30 seconds with a oxy-acetylene torch would also solve the problem very quickly. Really depends on what the answer is to my question on what exactly that bolt is threading into on the back of that bracket. If it's a nut that can easily be just cut/grinded off and a replacement tack welded on (or just use a loose nut with a lockwasher and be done with it) just torching it out is a very quick solution if the whole bracket can be removed to avoid heat damage to anything surrounding it..
Trials
Well-known member
If he is using an 8mm drill that would be the first problem, the bolt is only about 8mm his drill should be closer to 5mm
If he was drilling with a press or jig guide the drill would not have broken half way up the shank, it broke like that because he was not drilling in a straight line.
Holy you guys would make a mess of his frame, I would just beat up on the bolt.
sburns
Well-known member
Yes the broken tip of the easyout/extractor is now stuck in the broken bolt.
I just want to drill it out now.
Trials
Well-known member
If the hole you drilled through the bolt was all the way through and not a blind hole you should be able to drive the broken bit out from the other side, if you did not drill the hole all the way through the offending bolt you messed up. The easy out tool IS hardened steel, the bolt isn't.
sburns
Well-known member
None. The bolt screws right into the MC frame, and is flush with the back of the frame. I can see the end of the bolt on the other side of the frame. I wish there was a nut on the backside which would have been something to hope for.
Is it part of the frame...or is it just a bracket that can be removed from the bike and worked on? Again, hard to fully see from the photos. If it's part of the frame, then yeah, absolutely, a torch isn't an option.
If it's a bracket that can be removed fully, that'd be my first plan of attack, and a torch or a plasma cutter is a viable solution. Once it's off the bike there's various tactics available either way.
But there's no saving the threads. Even a few twists on a cross threaded bolt will pooch the threads, much less winding it in as far as that bolt has been forced in. The threads are history, you're going to be recutting new ones or replacing whatever it threads into at this point, zero question.
sburns
Well-known member
Yes I made a mess of my mess....ugh my dumb luck I guess.
Ouch. Well, that definitely changes things. Drilling it out and running a tap through it to cut new threads (possibly for a larger sized bolt at that point) is probably your only viable solution now.. From the photos it looked like perhaps it was a removable bracket. Hard to visualize.
sburns
Well-known member
Couple pix showing the overall issue
The bracket is infront of the screw at the moment, just a pic showing where it is. It can be removed. But the curved black shape is the frame of the MC with painted protection.
I think the plan now is to drill from the opposite side. Hopefully doing it this way the broken extractor will also drill out.
I believe I have space between the frame posts to use my dremel tool. Does that make sense.
Just need to know where to get proper bits.
Sent from the Moon!
The bracket is infront of the screw at the moment, just a pic showing where it is. It can be removed. But the curved black shape is the frame of the MC with painted protection.
I think the plan now is to drill from the opposite side. Hopefully doing it this way the broken extractor will also drill out.
I believe I have space between the frame posts to use my dremel tool. Does that make sense.
Just need to know where to get proper bits.
Sent from the Moon!
sburns
Well-known member
Thanks for the offer, see pics.
The bolt is screwed right into the frame. Technically I could take it apart, but I don't want to go to that length, or at least want to avoid it.
I have another photo of it all apart. Posting in a sec.
sburns
Well-known member
Welcome to my extreme bobber
Showing how it all comes apart. You can kinda see where the bolt is in the frame and how much access I have to it.
If you look at the opposite side you can see how the front of the bolt is flush with frame but still has a hole to drill through.
Sent from the Moon!
Drilling from the inside is your last option obviously.
You're going to NEED to remove the rear wheel. You've tried the short cuts, but with this being your last chance you need to create conditions that make the task easier, or at least more accessible.
Take the advice of the fellow in Lindsay (Bitzz) and buy the high quality tools he suggested, even if you have to wait to get them. Don't bother with CT or princess auto anymore.
You could also apply some heat to the area around the bolt. Yes, it's going to bugger up the paint but you can fix that after. Don't rethread, use a bolt with nut.
Incidentally, I have done EXACTLY the same thing as you have, but I only did it ONCE. I have broken bolts since then but I've gone strait to the good quality tools, appropriate level of disassembly and only worked on it after the frustration has passed.
Good luck. I'm sure you'll get it out.
You're going to NEED to remove the rear wheel. You've tried the short cuts, but with this being your last chance you need to create conditions that make the task easier, or at least more accessible.
Take the advice of the fellow in Lindsay (Bitzz) and buy the high quality tools he suggested, even if you have to wait to get them. Don't bother with CT or princess auto anymore.
You could also apply some heat to the area around the bolt. Yes, it's going to bugger up the paint but you can fix that after. Don't rethread, use a bolt with nut.
Incidentally, I have done EXACTLY the same thing as you have, but I only did it ONCE. I have broken bolts since then but I've gone strait to the good quality tools, appropriate level of disassembly and only worked on it after the frustration has passed.
Good luck. I'm sure you'll get it out.
Last edited:
You're NOT going to able to drill it from the other side, there isn't enough room to get a drill in there. You will drill into it on an angle... you've already made enough of a mess.....
I think your solution now is to get someone to fill weld the hole, then drill and tap a new hole.
I think your solution now is to get someone to fill weld the hole, then drill and tap a new hole.
Much better picture, perfect. Looks like there's lots of beef to work with at least in the frame at least, on both sides. Myself, I'd definitely drill it out at this point - get a really sharp centre punch to make a pilot, start with a small drill bit to make a bigger pilot, and then go up in size progressively. Use oil on the drill bit as you're drilling to make things easier and help from dulling the bits...just make sure to avoid getting any on the tire - cover it up somehow.
Make sure you're drilling straight, you really want to avoid drilling on an angle.
Once the current mess is out, try tapping it to factory size and see if you can get a decent thread cut. If not, tap it out to the next size up and change the bolt accordingly. Or just use a nut and bolt as was alternately suggested..just make sure it doesn't interfere with the tire even at full suspension compression - I've seen the results of that before, it wasn't pretty.
Make sure you're drilling straight, you really want to avoid drilling on an angle.
Once the current mess is out, try tapping it to factory size and see if you can get a decent thread cut. If not, tap it out to the next size up and change the bolt accordingly. Or just use a nut and bolt as was alternately suggested..just make sure it doesn't interfere with the tire even at full suspension compression - I've seen the results of that before, it wasn't pretty.
|
|
|
|
|