Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set? | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set?

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Drive the square end of a chainsaw file into the hole and crank er out of there.

... it's not nice out today your weather thread is !@#$%d
 
Trials said:
Drive the square end of a chainsaw file into the hole and crank er out of there.

... it's not nice out today your weather thread is !@#$%d
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What's wrong with today? Great ride into work this morning.
 
Ahhh fudge!!!

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bolt is winning.


Sent from the Moon!
 
Keep drilling there can't be much of it left,
how centred did you manage to get the hole or is that why the twist drill broke?
 
Ok so I centre punched the bolt, drilled to a good depth, and tapped in the extractor. Tried to turn the extractor, nothing. More force, nothing, then snap. I've tried to drill out the bolt again, with 2 new bits, 1 was kinda working but not, then the second one broke. I did take it all apart, he rear fender but I don't have much access on the opposite side, due to space between the frame.

Just frustrated now. Put it all back together, going for a ride.
 
Right angle drill head attachment might work from the other side, you should have probably went with the centre drill, they self centre and don't break.

One of these things:
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Both the extractor and drill bit are torque snapped, the pilot hole is too small . If you broke the easyout, cross threading is bad and you might be better to just drill it out then replace it with a nut and and lockbolt. I doubt you're gonna coax that bot out if it's breaking tools.

The drill looks dry, be sure to use a little WD to help cool and lube the cutting tip, drilling will be a lot easier.
 
When you use a hand tool to turn a tap, ream or even an easy-out make sure it turns from 2 sides (y)
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not from one side or you will just end up snapping bits.
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(n)
 
My dad is a contractor and I got all sorts of drills at home, from Hilti, to Milwauakee, etc... The thing that helped and worked the best for me, was using a dremel with diamond tipped bits to get the hole clean through, went through like a dozen cheap princess auto ones (Only got cause online ones were days/weeks from shipping, I recommend better quailty, those were cheap junk) and then drilled all the way through with a 18V drill and a set of DeWalt Cobalt bits from Lowes, They went through like butter, so much so through the aluminum engine block even. Took me close to 6-8hrs, patience, water for your own hydration, and persistence is key.
 
bitzz said:
Here is the problem with GTAM and Canadian Tire.
The extractor set on the right was designed to remove wood screws.
The set on the left seems to made from that FANTASTIC metallurgy invention" Chineseium. Extractors should be made from a hard alloy, usually High Speed Steel. Look at the small one, the end has already been chewed.

It seems I have a lot more experience removing broken screws than most of you, so here is a tip:
DON'T BUY TOOLS AT CANADIAN TIRE.
CTC sells JUNK tools. So does Princess Auto. So does Harbour Freight.
Some tools you just can't cheap out on. extractors sets in one, drills are another (If you're doing more than just punching holes in stuff).
I'm not saying this job is impossible using CTC tools, just A LOT harder and A LOT easier to screw up.

The CTC drill that you buy will NOT be rigid enough to accurately drill out a small hole in a hardened bolt, and it will wander and break... again and again... and you will get frustrated... and you'll make a mess.
And once you get the hole galled into that bolt, there is a GOOD chance that Chineseium extractor will either round off because it was too soft, or break off in the hole because it was too hard (It really wanted to be case hardened, but wasn't because that is expensive and a complicated process).

Here is a set of extractors that work:
Ridgid 35585 10 Screw Extractor Set for sale online | eBay (I have a set like this, I had to replace the small one, the one I use most often. The one piece cost more than that CTC 10 piece set).
For drills you NEED rigidity and something harder than the screw you're trying to drill.
Cobalt would be nice, but REALLY expensive.
A carbide "stub" drill is what I would use, Start the hole with a center drill.

For "DECENT" machine tools look to TryHard Industrial sales or KBC Tools. (One carbide stub drill is less than the four or five CTC drills you're going to break).

... or just bring me the part.
It is probably easier, faster and neater to weld up the hole with the bolt in it, and drill and tap a new hole. Done in half an hour.
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Almost entirely agree here. My only objection is recommending carbide in a hand drill. Carbide is very hard, but very brittle. You better have some steady hands if you're going to wander down that path. Cobalt is both cheaper and more user friendly in this regard. If the bit is going in a drill press or mill, then carbide is fine. In any case, don't buy drill bits from a big box store, they're meant for soft wood.
 
Mad Mike said:
Both the extractor and drill bit are torque snapped, the pilot hole is too small . If you broke the easyout, cross threading is bad and you might be better to just drill it out then replace it with a nut and and lockbolt. I doubt you're gonna coax that bot out if it's breaking tools.

The drill looks dry, be sure to use a little WD to help cool and lube the cutting tip, drilling will be a lot easier.
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Yes that is what I am thinking now, just drill the f-ker out of there and bolt nut it.

I have to find a bit which can really be used for metal though. Anyone have thoughts on that?
 
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Renboy said:
Almost entirely agree here. My only objection is recommending carbide in a hand drill. Carbide is very hard, but very brittle. You better have some steady hands if you're going to wander down that path. Cobalt is both cheaper and more user friendly in this regard. If the bit is going in a drill press or mill, then carbide is fine. In any case, don't buy drill bits from a big box store, they're meant for soft wood.
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Any suggestions where to by a bit from, should it be Cobalt?
 
Are the hardened easyout broken bit out of the blind hole? Die grinder and bits next. Don’t worry about threads now. Nut and bolt it back together if and when you get through.
 
Cobalt is a fancy sales name for a drill that is still barely good enough, the actual cobalt content is in the realm of 5% and the rest is steel. If you drilled the hole in the middle of the bolt and straight you haven't messed up the threads on the frame yet. If you had been drilling the hole in the middle of the bolt and straight you would not have broken the twist drill half way up the shank, that is what a drill press or guide jig would also prevent.
To drill a hole through hard material you start with a small drill and then progress towards a larger drill, that centre bit I showed you does both at the same time and it has a full diameter shank which will not flex and break like a twist drill.
... sound like we might need an updated picture to assess the damage.
 
How much of the bolt is through the back of that bracket? If there's enough to get a pair of vice grips on, snap them on insanely tight and see if you can just thread it back out the way it went in... Once you get enough back on the other side, switch the vice grips to that side and continue.

Since it's clearly been cross threaded the threads are going to be pooched so HOW it ultimately comes out isn't terribly important at this point, you're going to be cutting new threads into whatever it's threading into no matter what anyways.

Speaking of which, what is it threading into? Is there a tack welded nut on the other side of that bracket..or is it threads cut into a stamped steel bracket or something? I can't quite get a full vision in my head of what's going on there.
 
PrivatePilot said:
... you're going to be cutting new threads into whatever it's threading into no matter what anyways. ...
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Not if he has only been drilling bolt and hasn't drilled into the thread part yet, there is still hope. If there is nothing left of the bolt but a little bit of bolt threads it gets real easy to remove.
 
"Cobalt is a fancy sales name for a drill that is still barely good enough...."

No, Cobalt is element 27 on the periodic table. A hard metal, a lot like nickel, which is used to alloy high speed steel, to make it harder.

Kobalt is a fancy trade name.

The problem so far is the drills and extractor OP is using aren't as hard as the bolt he is trying to remove, so they break.
... also: HE'S DOING IT WRONG
 
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Cobalt is also very resistant to heat, but there should not be a lot of heat being generated if he is cutting metal and not just burning his way through it like a dull drill. Twist drill is perfect if you were drilling a deep hole and had a lot of shavings that needed to be drawn out, he only needs to drill the length of an inch long broken bolt.
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