Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set? | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Snapped a screw head - Drill extractor set?

Careful with the Canadian Tire extractors, they can break off too. Please don't me how I know.

Get a brand new drill bit (or a couple) and start to work at it.

I bought a Norton Commando a few years ago and found one of the intake manifold bolts had been broken off. I used a Dremel and cut a slot in it and turned it out with a flat head screw driver (as was suggested earlier but can't be done here).

I'm probably weird but I kept the extracted part and hung it in a little baggie above my bench as a trophy. A reminder that there is always a solution, though it may not be easy, quick or (perish the thought) cheap.
 
You know if it was a bigass bolt you could tack a piece of welding rod onto it or weld a nut onto it.
more bush fixes (y) bush fixes are good when you live in the bush.

Did you try tapping it out counter-clockwise with a sharp punch and a hammer?
Did you pull the fender off yet to see the other side?
lol I work slow but I would have had that !@#$% out or the bike half ripped apart by now.

Is going to perfect tomorrow, I want to ride Venus tomorrow.
 
JavaFan said:
OP cross threaded the bolt and kept tightening until the head broke off
Torx heads will take a lot of torque, enough to twist off this bolt
a left handed bit ain't gonna spin it out, unlikely a ground in slot will do it either

a decent extractor kit with quality drill bits and some patience will do it
Click to expand...


Yes OP cross threaded the bolt and then continued to torque it until it broke off..stupid bolt lol.
Threading it back out (extractor) will still leave you with messed up threads even if you don't touch the threads w drill bit. - then drill and re-tap?
or you could drill out the bolt hole all the way through and use a bolt and nut ?
 
with the bolt being crossed threaded I doubt you will get it out with a extractor, just center punch it closest to center as possible and drill it out, start with a small drill bit and work you way up in size until you start to see threads. Then try to get whats left of the bolt out, then run a tap thought it to clean up the threads. Good luck
 
Possibly drill it out, tap to next larger size then helicoil insert? Just throwing out ideas, this isn’t my expertise for sure.


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RonnieRev said:
with the bolt being crossed threaded I doubt you will get it out with a extractor, just center punch it closest to center as possible and drill it out, start with a small drill bit and work you way up in size until you start to see threads. Then try to get whats left of the bolt out, then run a tap thought it to clean up the threads. Good luck
Click to expand...
This. if you can get your hands on a "thread repair tool" that would be better than a tap tho.Taps are for cutting new threads.
 
Absolutely should investigate from the other side before even running out to buy tools.
Heli-coil insert takes a really big hole, would be a last resort imho.

I didn't think it was cross thread, just over-torqued?
If it's was cross thread he could probably beat it out of the hole with a massive hammer :| the threads on one part or the other would be destroyed anyway.
 
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Aw too late he's gone to his gig, the suspense continues until tomorrow I guess.
is just a stupid little broken M8 Harley bolt (y) let it idle for a while, maybe it will shake out!
 
I think this has gone too far, probably better to just trade the bike in and start with something new, far less complicated.
 
Remember to drill to maximum width, then use the largest screw extractor possible to reduce risk of it breaking off.
 
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These are the two types I use, depending on the circumstances.

I have had the most success with the two on the right. One end creates the right size and depth of hole...then you flip the bit around and with your drill in reverse, you slowly screw into the hole you just made and then torque it out.

If you’re up for a ride to Oakville tomorrow, send me a PM and you can come by and fix it here if you want. I have a tap and die set too if you end up having to drill it out.

If you prefer to buy your own I would go with style on the right (Cdn tire) and always start with the smallest of the two extractors so if it doesn’t work, you can always step it up to the next size.


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Robbo said:
0b7cf9e4e35e6f99fe80b317d0aadce6.jpg


These are the two types I use, depending on the circumstances.

I have had the most success with the two on the right. One end creates the right size and depth of hole...then you flip the bit around and with your drill in reverse, you slowly screw into the hole you just made and then torque it out.

If you’re up for a ride to Oakville tomorrow, send me a PM and you can come by and fix it here if you want. I have a tap and die set too if you end up having to drill it out.

If you prefer to buy your own I would go with style on the right (Cdn tire) and always start with the smallest of the two extractors so if it doesn’t work, you can always step it up to the next size.
Click to expand...
Excellent thanks @Robbo!
 
Thanks all again for the feedback and some fun comments. Fingers crossed when I tackle this tomorrow it goes smoothly. But I will keep you posted! ✌
 
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Robbo said:
0b7cf9e4e35e6f99fe80b317d0aadce6.jpg


These are the two types I use, depending on the circumstances.

I have had the most success with the two on the right. One end creates the right size and depth of hole...then you flip the bit around and with your drill in reverse, you slowly screw into the hole you just made and then torque it out.

If you’re up for a ride to Oakville tomorrow, send me a PM and you can come by and fix it here if you want. I have a tap and die set too if you end up having to drill it out.

If you prefer to buy your own I would go with style on the right (Cdn tire) and always start with the smallest of the two extractors so if it doesn’t work, you can always step it up to the next size.


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Click to expand...
ditto with set on the right.
 
I'd go with the drill it out and re-thread.

Had a bolt from some engine guards break in the Honda's engine block. A Mechanic from this forum tried to use a Bolt extractor to take it out, broke the extractor bit in there. He suggested taking out the engine and using a a heli coil to fix his error, a $1k+ job. long story short, I said hell no as the bike was still new, less than 5K on the odo, I picked the bike up, spent 8hrs+ in the garage dremeling it out using diamond tipped bits, and a some carbide bits slowly.

I drilled through the block and put a nut on the other side, I will re-tap it later this summer, works perfect now. If the bolt extractor breaks in the screws, it's a whole new level of difficulty, luckily yours isn't in the engine block.
 
Robbo said:
0b7cf9e4e35e6f99fe80b317d0aadce6.jpg


These are the two types I use, depending on the circumstances.

I have had the most success with the two on the right. One end creates the right size and depth of hole...then you flip the bit around and with your drill in reverse, you slowly screw into the hole you just made and then torque it out.

If you’re up for a ride to Oakville tomorrow, send me a PM and you can come by and fix it here if you want. I have a tap and die set too if you end up having to drill it out.

If you prefer to buy your own I would go with style on the right (Cdn tire) and always start with the smallest of the two extractors so if it doesn’t work, you can always step it up to the next size.


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Click to expand...

Here is the problem with GTAM and Canadian Tire.
The extractor set on the right was designed to remove wood screws.
The set on the left seems to made from that FANTASTIC metallurgy invention" Chineseium. Extractors should be made from a hard alloy, usually High Speed Steel. Look at the small one, the end has already been chewed.

It seems I have a lot more experience removing broken screws than most of you, so here is a tip:
DON'T BUY TOOLS AT CANADIAN TIRE.
CTC sells JUNK tools. So does Princess Auto. So does Harbour Freight.
Some tools you just can't cheap out on. extractors sets in one, drills are another (If you're doing more than just punching holes in stuff).
I'm not saying this job is impossible using CTC tools, just A LOT harder and A LOT easier to screw up.

The CTC drill that you buy will NOT be rigid enough to accurately drill out a small hole in a hardened bolt, and it will wander and break... again and again... and you will get frustrated... and you'll make a mess.
And once you get the hole galled into that bolt, there is a GOOD chance that Chineseium extractor will either round off because it was too soft, or break off in the hole because it was too hard (It really wanted to be case hardened, but wasn't because that is expensive and a complicated process).

Here is a set of extractors that work:
Ridgid 35585 10 Screw Extractor Set for sale online | eBay (I have a set like this, I had to replace the small one, the one I use most often. The one piece cost more than that CTC 10 piece set).
For drills you NEED rigidity and something harder than the screw you're trying to drill.
Cobalt would be nice, but REALLY expensive.
A carbide "stub" drill is what I would use, Start the hole with a center drill.

For "DECENT" machine tools look to TryHard Industrial sales or KBC Tools. (One carbide stub drill is less than the four or five CTC drills you're going to break).

... or just bring me the part.
It is probably easier, faster and neater to weld up the hole with the bolt in it, and drill and tap a new hole. Done in half an hour.
 
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