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Shopping list for 2013 track season
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
I'm fancy.
I think i'm gonna be in the market for a new set of boots. My Daytonas appear to be toast after 2 seasons. I know I can buy new outers but I've had problems with them almost from day one and i'm not sure I want to invest in even the outers. So can anyone suggest a boot that offers as much protection as the Daytonas?
Dainese Torques.
What kind of issues are you having?
I just picked up a set of Daytona's and would like your insight.
Mr.Azim
Well-known member
Dave Noble is a Spidi dealer now... look up his thread in the Vendors section, good looking boots for the $250-$350 range
Some (or maybe all) of these "issues" are down to me, the way I ride and the bike I ride but;
Chewed thru 2 zips. Bickle had to put a Kevlar patch across the problem area on the third zip to solve the issue.
Soles are worn thru from standing on pegs.
Toe slider screw has snapped off.
Bits of elastic have melted on my exhaust.
Some stitching is giving way.
I'm looking at $300+ for a new set of outers so want to explore all possibilities before I pull the trigger.
Im having the same issue with the soles on my Daytonas.
Everything else is good with them, and mine are now 4 years old.
Everything else is good with them, and mine are now 4 years old.
I said fun, not fast1:20 is great, best I could pull off was 1:28 (or 1:26, can't remember, I'll have to check my logs)! Maybe with my new fork internals, proper setup and new rotors and pads I can shave a few seconds off. For sure I can be way more aggressive on the brakes, just had some strange problem under braking that would stop me from pushing very hard on them. And also not sure how hard I can push on my S20's
Oh, I know what you mean. I've seen vids, that hill for sure separates the men from the boys
I've got a really aggressive throttle map loaded in my R1, so smooth throttle on the corner exits was a little tricky, especially for a track noob. I'll flash in a perfectly linear throttle map and see if it helps with my mid corner throttle maintenance as well as smoother roll on coming out.
-Jamie M.
Suspension work isn't needed to improve from a 1:28.
Bone stock , early 1990's carbed 600's with 85 hp and no 2nd gear, ridden by someone with 2 wknds of track experience can lap TMP at 1:20.
Quit throwing money at the bike and just learn to ride it. The bike was already fast.
Once I get my braking problem figured out, my lap times should improve quite a bit. John Sharrard said I was at the limit of my pre-load, and it's probably the original fork oil in there. While he's got it apart I'll have him drop in some upgrades anyway
-Jamie M.
I call BS. Complete and total utter BS. That's 2 s from pole in many BOTT races where the bikes have that much power and all their gears. At most TMP track days only the very fastest guys on race machinery are turning sub 1:20s. No way a newbie on a broken bike is doing that.
2007 vs 1990 600 is a HUGE diff. 2007 I believe, 1990's not so much. I have to be on it pretty good with my SV to get to 1:20, and I pass early 2000's 600's on the straight from time to time.
My clutch switch wasn't even hooked up so the bike would barely rev past 12k and the suspension was soo badly setup my tires were ruined after 2 days. At the high 20's level it's the rider, not the bike. There's no reason a modern sport bike can't run a 1:25. I see a 90's 600 as modern enough.
Doesn't matter if you believe it...It happened. Hundreds of us were there to see it.
I have never been a trackday guy. I did 1 trackday a week before I started racing. At tMP I borrowed TL Deano's GSXR and lapped at 1:25ish for most of the day in yellow group. I borrowed his bike becasue my racebike wasn't wuite ready, but I wanted to learn the track before the races the next weekend.
Raced that broken bike in 3 classes for 3 weekends, and other than the dismal starts that saw me heading into turn 1 dead last every race, the missing 2nd gear was never a deal breaker. Smooth, high corner speed was the goal of the day,LOL
It was 2.5 yrs ago, my first weekend in SOAR. 1994 YZF 600 with no 2nd gear. Practise day (Fri) saw a est lap of 1:25....Sat I Qualified 2nd with a best lap of 1:22. Best lap of race was 1:19.....and I didn't win.....I wasn't even close enough to the winner to even see him. He was running 5 or 6 seconds a lap faster than I was. He almost lapped me by the end of the race, and in Lost Era, every bike is old carbed junk.
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Stock suspension on a 1994 YZF600?? Wow... I had a 1995 and the suspension was absolute garbage. You must weigh 140 or less and be some kind of prodigy.
Stock forks with Racetech springs. Didn't even change the oil,LOL. Rear shock was stock for first weekend, then I found a used Fox twin clicker online before the next round. It was better than the stocker, but not very good. It is sprung for a sub 140 lb rider and I am 160+ gear.......the shock also needs a rebuild desperately. That bike destroyed a rear tire every round. Rebound tear seemed to be the consensus from the guys at Ripp Racing. I hope to resurrect that bike over the next 12 months, and the shock will get rebuilt for sure.
I am a long way from a prodigy I am afraid. Andrew Westbrook dominated that year on an old carbed ZX6....he even did well racing it in Open Sprint and 600 Extreme against brand new machines. Now he was the prodigy in Lost Era. Funny thing though is that I managed to go from 1:25 to 1:19 that weekend in just 3 days. I may have hit a wall and I think I need instruction from better riders to improve. Even on my R6 (way lighter, faster, WITH a working 2nd gear), I am not much faster than I was on that YZF. I think the YZF just felt right. I liked how I sat inside the bike. I felt more like I was part of the machine. The R6 feels like I am perched on top and am just along for the ride,LOL
The point I am trying to make is this:
I see so many people who constantly throw money at the bike for Brembo this, Ohlins that. It seems so wasteful to me unless the OEM stuff you're getting rid of is holding you back or you have eclipsed to performance envelop that those OEM parts can accomodate. Many riders are spending huge money trying to drop two seconds a lap when they are running in the yellow group for example. If you're still in yellow, save your money for track time and instruction......the bike already has everything it needs to get you another 2 seconds or more. There isn't a sportbike available today that can't lap TMP at 1:20 or lower, bone stock. Unless you're buying stuff that makes service easier, or crashes safer and less devastating, I think the money would be better spent elsewhere.
We had great luck this season on our Fireblade as an endurance bike. The 3 of us riding it haven't even managed to eclipse the stock fork's abilities yet. It has a slip on, and Ohlins shock. Otherwise stock, to the header, fueling, clipons, seat, etc. Even still has licence plate/fender still on it,LOL. In fact, all 3 racebikes I own have nothing more than race fairings, an exhaust, and a shock for performance mods. All have stock forks, wheels, brakes etc....I could buy parts sure, but I feel that I, the rider, am still the weak link in my equation. I haven't gotten the point where I can even ride the bikes to their limit yet, so why would I spend money trying to elevate that limit?
Becoming a great rider will do so much more for your lap times than spending tens of thousands on fancy parts . In SOAR, you only need to watch an SV 650 pilotted by Brent Strong or Rob Buzby, racing against SUperbikes with more than twice the power to see evidence of that.
I am a long way from a prodigy I am afraid. Andrew Westbrook dominated that year on an old carbed ZX6....he even did well racing it in Open Sprint and 600 Extreme against brand new machines. Now he was the prodigy in Lost Era. Funny thing though is that I managed to go from 1:25 to 1:19 that weekend in just 3 days. I may have hit a wall and I think I need instruction from better riders to improve. Even on my R6 (way lighter, faster, WITH a working 2nd gear), I am not much faster than I was on that YZF. I think the YZF just felt right. I liked how I sat inside the bike. I felt more like I was part of the machine. The R6 feels like I am perched on top and am just along for the ride,LOL
The point I am trying to make is this:
I see so many people who constantly throw money at the bike for Brembo this, Ohlins that. It seems so wasteful to me unless the OEM stuff you're getting rid of is holding you back or you have eclipsed to performance envelop that those OEM parts can accomodate. Many riders are spending huge money trying to drop two seconds a lap when they are running in the yellow group for example. If you're still in yellow, save your money for track time and instruction......the bike already has everything it needs to get you another 2 seconds or more. There isn't a sportbike available today that can't lap TMP at 1:20 or lower, bone stock. Unless you're buying stuff that makes service easier, or crashes safer and less devastating, I think the money would be better spent elsewhere.
We had great luck this season on our Fireblade as an endurance bike. The 3 of us riding it haven't even managed to eclipse the stock fork's abilities yet. It has a slip on, and Ohlins shock. Otherwise stock, to the header, fueling, clipons, seat, etc. Even still has licence plate/fender still on it,LOL. In fact, all 3 racebikes I own have nothing more than race fairings, an exhaust, and a shock for performance mods. All have stock forks, wheels, brakes etc....I could buy parts sure, but I feel that I, the rider, am still the weak link in my equation. I haven't gotten the point where I can even ride the bikes to their limit yet, so why would I spend money trying to elevate that limit?
Becoming a great rider will do so much more for your lap times than spending tens of thousands on fancy parts . In SOAR, you only need to watch an SV 650 pilotted by Brent Strong or Rob Buzby, racing against SUperbikes with more than twice the power to see evidence of that.
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