Pickup Trucks

My MDX is getting to the point where I need to seriously thing about replacing it, or at least have a solid idea of what to replace it with when it actually dies (again). I've been mesemerized by the Jeep Gladiator since it was released. I know it's a Chrysler product, but if I can make an exception for the Viper, maybe I can for this as well? Thoughts before I start down the rabbit hole of Jeep forums?
The cabin is smaller, less comfortable, and overall less refined. Bed is a tad shorter at 5’ but only by half a foot or so. Not as nice on the highway. You gain the Jeep features of taking the top/doors off of that’s your thing.
Personally I’d rather have quiet, comfy, refined.
 
I like the Gladiator too. It's reasonably priced for a small rugged pickup and you can still get it with a manual transmission (if that's your thing). The Ride is firmer than a street bias SUV or full size pickup, but no worse than any shorter wheelbase 4x4 truck/SUV that has an off-road bias.

I don't know whether dependability is an issue of legend. I've owned 7 Jeeps over the years, and pretty much every non-Jeep owner/expert advised me not to buy because of Jeep's dependability.

I consider myself lucky -- my jeeps all retired at about 12 years and 300K+ /KM with a lot less M&R than any Ford or GM truck I've owned. (CJ5, Wagoneer, Pioneer, YJ, TK, Grand Cherokee, Commander, Patriot).
 
Is it just me, or did some of the import manufacturers pickup trucks suddenly inflate drastically in size?

On Friday I saw what I think was a Toyota Tundra (possibly) and for a few seconds on size alone I mistook it for one of the new Chevy battletanks coming out of the Oshawa plant.
 
I have a 24 Tundra and its larger looking than my previous 21 F150 but its smaller... lol

Good truck so far. No breakdowns yet, unlike the Ford which gave me little irritating issues almost from the start.

My engine hasn't detonated on itself, so that's a good sign.
 
Last ditch effort to grab a Maverick this week.

If it doesn’t work out, I give up. Will try and find wife a new(er) Odyssey and just keep the GTI.

Her car has 155k so…I’ve never had a car with that many kms.

Anyone know MAX % lease on a Ford? Thinking of doing that and then just buying outright.
 
Last ditch effort to grab a Maverick this week.

If it doesn’t work out, I give up. Will try and find wife a new(er) Odyssey and just keep the GTI.

Her car has 155k so…I’ve never had a car with that many kms.

Anyone know MAX % lease on a Ford? Thinking of doing that and then just buying outright.
I lease my primary vehicle. It’s not a bad deal if you have a business- new vehicle every 3 years and you’re never out of warranty.

In most of my leases, the car buyback was about the same as buying the same car used, no big financial advantsge or disadvantage.
 
Last ditch effort to grab a Maverick this week.

If it doesn’t work out, I give up. Will try and find wife a new(er) Odyssey and just keep the GTI.

Her car has 155k so…I’ve never had a car with that many kms.

Anyone know MAX % lease on a Ford? Thinking of doing that and then just buying outright.
It's a Honda. You should be good for 300k+ and won't be surprised if you get 400k out of it.

I normally end up swapping my wife's vehicles around 250k and mine at 300k+.
 
I lease my primary vehicle. It’s not a bad deal if you have a business- new vehicle every 3 years and you’re never out of warranty.

In most of my leases, the car buyback was about the same as buying the same car used, no big financial advantsge or disadvantage.
This is one of the options.

Max the deposit available on a lease from the trade, take the remainder (if any) and dump it into LOC.

Wife has a cleaning business she can write off against, and I have my side hustle that I can use against the lease (but obviously it's much less used for business than my wife's cleaning business).

I asked the salesman to run the numbers of financing the used Maverick I'm interested in, against leasing a brand new one for 3 years.
 
Last ditch effort to grab a Maverick this week.

If it doesn’t work out, I give up. Will try and find wife a new(er) Odyssey and just keep the GTI.

Her car has 155k so…I’ve never had a car with that many kms.

Anyone know MAX % lease on a Ford? Thinking of doing that and then just buying outright.
FIL’s Odyssey has over 400k on it. No rust and nothing wrong with it. Honda dealer keeps telling him they’ll give him a good deal on a new one and I keep pleading with the old guy just to keep it. It never breaks and he’s old, last thing he needs is getting talked into a new vehicle.
Our 20 Ody had 76k on it now. I’m fine with keeping it past the 300k mark if wife will agree to it.
 
Brother uses his company to front load the heck out of a lease so the buyout is peanuts , dealer is onside . Gives buyout cars to his kids .
Park a new Tundra beside a GMC and it’s hard to tell the difference from the profile .
I may be driving my last new truck , I’ll retire with the next couple yrs and I’ll let other people take the initial depreciation hit .


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Last ditch effort to grab a Maverick this week.

If it doesn’t work out, I give up. Will try and find wife a new(er) Odyssey and just keep the GTI.

Her car has 155k so…I’ve never had a car with that many kms.

If you don't count the well-known transmission issue in my 2001 Odyssey, it got close to 400k with nothing more than regular maintenance before it got written off. And even then, I think I skimped on the timing belt after the transmission started acting up and I was in a huge fight with Honda to cover it (long story involving high-reading odometer class action which made me technically within the warranty period when it originally started acting up). Body and undercarriage did surprisingly well for a daily driver considering I only rustproofed it once when I bought it new. The non-standard repairs I remember were replacing the sliding door rollers on both doors, and resolder some loose contacts on the DRL controller board. Even with the bad transmission, I was able to shift it manually, which actually made it a little more fun in some ways, but the wife couldn't really drive it anymore so she got to drive the BMW 323i.
 
Brother uses his company to front load the heck out of a lease so the buyout is peanuts , dealer is onside . Gives buyout cars to his kids .
Park a new Tundra beside a GMC and it’s hard to tell the difference from the profile .
I may be driving my last new truck , I’ll retire with the next couple yrs and I’ll let other people take the initial depreciation hit .


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Yup, this is what I used to do, and how my Odyssey cost me $800/mo in lease payments, but only $2000 buyout after 4 years. LOL.
 
Brother uses his company to front load the heck out of a lease so the buyout is peanuts , dealer is onside . Gives buyout cars to his kids .
Park a new Tundra beside a GMC and it’s hard to tell the difference from the profile .
I may be driving my last new truck , I’ll retire with the next couple yrs and I’ll let other people take the initial depreciation hit .


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
How does one do that front load part of a lease?

I’m not sure how all this works.

Wife will probably run her odyssey into the ground at the rate she’s going at. Almost not worth replacing.

As for me…I’m less than 20k/year right now with hybrid office days.
 
How does one do that front load part of a lease?

I’m not sure how all this works.

Wife will probably run her odyssey into the ground at the rate she’s going at. Almost not worth replacing.

As for me…I’m less than 20k/year right now with hybrid office days.
You lease for high mileage. That puts the depreciation into the lease price and lowers the buyout. If you are buying out, you don't have to pay more even though the lease allowed for 160K and it only has 60K.
 
Just like GG said , you tell the sales manager your going to bring it back with three hundred k on the clock , wink wink , he prices you at x per month , residual is very low . Be sure you have first right of buyout option in the lease .
You also need to be in a position where paying hundreds a month extra is not a problem , otherwise the game makes no sense .


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So , the second price tag on my Toyota Tacoma . Remote starter is an app , Toyota needs a subscription to start my truck , pay every month for that . Or buy aftermarket remote for two hundred. Same for trailer brake control , in my Ford f one fifty , controller is in the truck . Not Toyota , these guys don’t even offer one , with the tow package , you buy second market . Sneaky Japanese.


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