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Load-N-Go Motorcycle Loading Lift - Anyone have this?
- Thread starter black_CG2
- Start date
While it makes zero sense, 32505 is the newer version of 37505. No idea if the newer version is better.
Don't use the canyon dancers with the cups that go over your bar ends.
They will ruin your bar ends.
DAMHIK.
I have no specific recommendations for straps with spring clips or retainers on the J hooks. I have a set of ratchet straps with open J hooks and I just use tape or wire to make sure they can't come unhooked. I use them infrequently enough that I haven't bothered looking for replacements.
On the other hand, I like things really streamlined for the setup that I use frequently, which is for my trackbike. This is just a combination of personal preferences, but it lets me load or unload by myself in seconds:
- cambuckle lashing straps:
- lighter because they don't have a bulky, heavy ratchet mechanism
- they don't have J hooks so they don't get tangled as much and are easier to store
- I find it easier to release tension on a cambuckle compared to a ratchet strap without the whole thing going "sproing" and releasing all the tension at once
- carabiners (or J hooks with spring clips or retainers) because it's impossible for them to come loose if you hit a big bump and the strap slackens when the bike's suspension compresses
- permanently mounted tie-down rings on the bike so it's easy to clip and unclip the carabiner with one hand, and avoid wear on any painted parts
Scratches? How much space is there? Could some infant socks fix the problem?
EDIT:
It looks like the newer version is the ones you don't like. The old one goes over the grip not the bar end.
Scratches on metal bar ends. Destroys plastic or rubber end caps.
Not sure.
But the newer ones seem to have rigid cups. The original ones have nylon strap material and it molds to the handle/grip better in my opinion.
I would prefer the original ones.
If you need to borrow a pair for 1-2 time use, you can borrow mine.
Unless you need it to take to the track every weekend.
Pit Bull Trailer restraints no straps needed.
www.pit-bull.com
Pit Bull - Trailer Restraint Systems for Motorcycles
The Pit Bull Trailer Restraint System allows you to transport your motorcycle without straps or even a wheel chock. Strapless transportation has never been easier or more secure.
www.pit-bull.com
black_CG2
Well-known member
Pit Bull Trailer restraints no straps needed.
Pit Bull - Trailer Restraint Systems for Motorcycles
The Pit Bull Trailer Restraint System allows you to transport your motorcycle without straps or even a wheel chock. Strapless transportation has never been easier or more secure.
This is pretty neat but one would have to get motorcycle specific hardware and ensure they have a long pick up bed.
Trigger warning: If you have a more-is-more mentality, like messy straps everywhere, and you squeeze your suspension harder than the throat of someone who owes you money... just skip this post.
When I strap a bike, it's so clean you barely notice the four straps, and there is zero compression of the suspension involved. That means the bike's suspension if free to bounce around.
Springs are made to go boingy-boing. They aren't made to stay squishy-slammed (the correct mechanical engineering springology terms) for long periods of time... Either way will get the job done, but why strap your bike opposite towhat God and nature intended for our bikes???
Clean and tidy. No suspension compression. 45 degrees out, 45 degrees forward. It's a beautiful thing
Message me if you need me.
When I strap a bike, it's so clean you barely notice the four straps, and there is zero compression of the suspension involved. That means the bike's suspension if free to bounce around.
Springs are made to go boingy-boing. They aren't made to stay squishy-slammed (the correct mechanical engineering springology terms) for long periods of time... Either way will get the job done, but why strap your bike opposite towhat God and nature intended for our bikes???
Clean and tidy. No suspension compression. 45 degrees out, 45 degrees forward. It's a beautiful thing
Message me if you need me.
Not a fan of Canyon Dancers as they can damage handlebars, in particular cast ones.. I use soft straps wrapped around the lower triple clamp, then ratchet straps.
Lessons learned on my 2,800 km round trip (post 44) is that a solid chock and the front ratchet straps are key to securing the bike properly.
IMO it is not necessary to use a ratchet strap to tie down and compress the rear suspension. We found that the straps pulling forward and then the straps pulling back compressed the suspension and we were constantly making small adjustments to tighten up various straps, compressing the suspension more and more as the trip progressed.
For the rear all you need is a ratchet strap attached to one side of the trailer, behind the bike, then wrapped twice around the tire, and then attached to the other side. Keep the strap tight as you do this and then final tighten with the ratchet. This keeps the bike from sliding sideways and would also prevent the bike from flipping up if you were in an accident. I have put in a number of extra D rings to enable this setup for 2 bikes. so each has its own rear strap.
Lessons learned on my 2,800 km round trip (post 44) is that a solid chock and the front ratchet straps are key to securing the bike properly.
IMO it is not necessary to use a ratchet strap to tie down and compress the rear suspension. We found that the straps pulling forward and then the straps pulling back compressed the suspension and we were constantly making small adjustments to tighten up various straps, compressing the suspension more and more as the trip progressed.
For the rear all you need is a ratchet strap attached to one side of the trailer, behind the bike, then wrapped twice around the tire, and then attached to the other side. Keep the strap tight as you do this and then final tighten with the ratchet. This keeps the bike from sliding sideways and would also prevent the bike from flipping up if you were in an accident. I have put in a number of extra D rings to enable this setup for 2 bikes. so each has its own rear strap.
The restraint plate can also be mounted in front of the rear wheel. The Pins are the only difference from Bike to bike. The rest of the setup is the same. I have plates in my toyhauler and on my open trailer. You can also Mount the plates to a sheet of plywood that is cut to fit in your truck box so you don't have to drill holes in the box.
black_CG2
Well-known member
Trigger warning: If you have a more-is-more mentality, like messy straps everywhere, and you squeeze your suspension harder than the throat of someone who owes you money... just skip this post.
When I strap a bike, it's so clean you barely notice the four straps, and there is zero compression of the suspension involved. That means the bike's suspension if free to bounce around.
Springs are made to go boingy-boing. They aren't made to stay squishy-slammed (the correct mechanical engineering springology terms) for long periods of time... Either way will get the job done, but why strap your bike opposite towhat God and nature intended for our bikes???
Clean and tidy. No suspension compression. 45 degrees out, 45 degrees forward. It's a beautiful thing
View attachment 64355
Message me if you need me.
Very beautiful and extremely clean. I appreciate this. Can this setup work with any bike?
Probably most but not all. A single-sided swingarm would give you headaches with this method. He's using fender mounts to grab the front straps. Some bikes may not have a suitable stop there. I wouldn't want to go to the axle as you would be pulling out too much and down not enough.
I think the straps on the forks would crack the fender on most of my bikes. Might work on one of them, but there's too much plastic in the way on the others before the strap could rest on solid metal. The strap over the swingarm would also crush the chainguards on my bikes or need to be fed under the chain. The setup looks like it works well on that bike because there's a solid lump of frame near the swingarm pivot so the strap doesn't rest on the chainguard or chain.
Also, I think some sort of law is being broken by having a Honda Shadow on a Harley Davidson-branded truck.
black_CG2
Well-known member
Trigger warning: If you have a more-is-more mentality, like messy straps everywhere, and you squeeze your suspension harder than the throat of someone who owes you money... just skip this post.
When I strap a bike, it's so clean you barely notice the four straps, and there is zero compression of the suspension involved. That means the bike's suspension if free to bounce around.
Springs are made to go boingy-boing. They aren't made to stay squishy-slammed (the correct mechanical engineering springology terms) for long periods of time... Either way will get the job done, but why strap your bike opposite towhat God and nature intended for our bikes???
Clean and tidy. No suspension compression. 45 degrees out, 45 degrees forward. It's a beautiful thing
View attachment 64355
Message me if you need me.
This video uses your technique as well:
Anyone tried the same technique with sport bikes? At 0:02, they show a gsxr strapped just like that Honda Shadow above.
DO NOT STRAP A BIKE DOWN LIKE THAT BEARDED GUY.
1)NEVER trailer a bike with the side stand down. Great way to bend or break your frame.
2)ALWAYS compress the front suspension with strap tension. The springs keep the straps tight. His way if the strap loosens even a little the bike goes down... and you DON'T want the suspension to bounce. You want the suspension to take the "stress", NOT the strap.
3)ALWAYS get the two front straps secured as wide as possible at both ends, 45 degree angle is best. More leverage, less stress on the straps.
1)NEVER trailer a bike with the side stand down. Great way to bend or break your frame.
2)ALWAYS compress the front suspension with strap tension. The springs keep the straps tight. His way if the strap loosens even a little the bike goes down... and you DON'T want the suspension to bounce. You want the suspension to take the "stress", NOT the strap.
3)ALWAYS get the two front straps secured as wide as possible at both ends, 45 degree angle is best. More leverage, less stress on the straps.
No offence intended, but this is kind of like an oil thread.
According to the Tank Strap PRODUCT ENDORSEMENT video there is another way to tie down your MC on a trailer. Great, glad it works on the Shadow.
If I positioned the strap where it is on this video on my current and recent street bikes I would have damaged the front fender at the mounts,. I would think he amount of force exerted by a ratchet strap without any of his dreaded suspension compression would put stress on a spot where none was expected by designers.
I've travelled to the east coast with a bike strapped down twice, as well as countless times throughout Ontario and I've never had an issue with straps coming loose or a MC falling over. As long as the straps are in good shape, all is well. They DO wear out though and need to be replaced eventually, but I'm not going to buy goonishly large ratchet straps when smaller and more flexible ones will work just as well.
According to the Tank Strap PRODUCT ENDORSEMENT video there is another way to tie down your MC on a trailer. Great, glad it works on the Shadow.
If I positioned the strap where it is on this video on my current and recent street bikes I would have damaged the front fender at the mounts,. I would think he amount of force exerted by a ratchet strap without any of his dreaded suspension compression would put stress on a spot where none was expected by designers.
I've travelled to the east coast with a bike strapped down twice, as well as countless times throughout Ontario and I've never had an issue with straps coming loose or a MC falling over. As long as the straps are in good shape, all is well. They DO wear out though and need to be replaced eventually, but I'm not going to buy goonishly large ratchet straps when smaller and more flexible ones will work just as well.
Yep.
Compress the suspension, don't compress the suspension...
The way I look at it, I've ridden for >12 hours straight, sitting on my motorcycle with my full weight on both forks and rear shock. The suspension is fully capable of handling this kind of compression for extended periods of time. Obviously if I'm trailering over multiple days, I'll relax the straps overnight.
When I strap down my bikes, I sit on them and there's still a little bit of give on the front and rear, so it's not being compressed as much as when I ride it. If there's no give, then it's strapped down too tight and then I release the straps a little.
Your suspension is not made of glass. If it can take your weight on it all day, it can take being strapped down on a trailer for a few hours.
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