Load-N-Go Motorcycle Loading Lift - Anyone have this? | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Load-N-Go Motorcycle Loading Lift - Anyone have this?

2 straps!? I go with a 4 minimum at each corner. Then one around the front wheel, one around the back wheel, and sometimes if I'm feeling randy one through the middle.
You could probably take that thing offroading WHILE on the trailer and it wouldn't go anywhere.
 
Ewwww. Poly rope for a bike. Cringy.

An acquaintance looked back in his younger years and started laughing that his brothers dirt bike had fallen off the trailer and gotten caught in the strap so it was being dragged. His brother got the last laugh when they went back to reload it and my buddy realized it was his bike sliding.
 
And that was behind the volt/van. A nice road and the GTI and you will need at least double that.
Not at the price of putting a hitch on…that ain’t happening any time soon.

You could probably take that thing offroading WHILE on the trailer and it wouldn't go anywhere.

Ya….and then my spare tire gets damaged again. FML. That cost me a bundle for 2 new wheels.
 
For strapping the rear, buddy and I used one strap on each side of swing arm. In this video, the rear wheel is being strapped. Thoughts? Are both methods safe?

 
For strapping the rear, buddy and I used one strap on each side of swing arm. In this video, the rear wheel is being strapped. Thoughts? Are both methods safe?


Personally, I like compressing the rear shock to minimize the rear wheel bouncing.

For our dual sports, I tie-down from the foot pegs.

For sportbikes, you could use the passenger pegs for a tie-down point, but I replaced the passenger pegs with this:

DSC_0453-L.jpg
 
I use a strap through the rear wheel, but I run it through the front of the wheel and the strap pulls forward into the chock. That way the strap does not slacken (or not much, anyway) if the wheel turns in transit.

I'm cheap so I use Moose tie-down rings where the passenger pegs used to be instead of Lightcycle's race hooks, but the idea is the same. I go with beefy carabiners instead of an open J hook, just for peace of mind that nothing can possibly come unhooked over big bumps.
 
And never ever load the trailer without it being connected to the car. Ask me how I know…
 
Looks like I may not need a trailer after all. There is a beautiful park only 5 mins walking distance from my house and it has many levels of hills to load and unload motorcycle. I could not sleep at all last night, thinking about solutions and then I thought about the park that I used to go to for walks.

Pics are attached.
You just need a stool to step up between the ground and the tailgate, as you walk beside the bike, using the clutch to pull the bike up the ramp.

Ridgeline is low enough. I do the same with a full size chevy silverado.

And yeah, strap the ramp so it won't move... or have a friend recording you when you don't.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
I use a strap through the rear wheel, but I run it through the front of the wheel and the strap pulls forward into the chock. That way the strap does not slacken (or not much, anyway) if the wheel turns in transit.

I'm cheap so I use Moose tie-down rings where the passenger pegs used to be instead of Lightcycle's race hooks, but the idea is the same. I go with beefy carabiners instead of an open J hook, just for peace of mind that nothing can possibly come unhooked over big bumps.

https://www.amazon.ca/SNAP-SPRING-CARBINE-CARABINER-STEEL/dp/B007LKZI2C this? Do beefy carabiners attach to straps? I am confused.
 
https://www.amazon.ca/SNAP-SPRING-CARBINE-CARABINER-STEEL/dp/B007LKZI2C this? Do beefy carabiners attach to straps? I am confused.
Yes, similar to those but I think the ones I have are 3/8". I recall looking around to find ones that had a decent load rating on them. Another option is to just get straps that have spring clips on the J hooks. Either will work to be absolutely sure there is no way anything can become unhooked no matter how big a bump I hit, without feeling like I have to crank the bike's suspension down all the way onto the stops.

I prefer simple cambuckle lashing straps like these. Feed the loose end of the strap through the tiedown ring on the trailer, then through the carabiner, then into the cambuckle to form one large loop. It makes it a really easy one-person job to just walk the bike up onto the trailer, reach down to grab the carabiner with one hand and hook it onto the tie-down ring that is mounted on the bike, and give the free end of the strap a quick pull to get the tension right.
 
Something to remember is to make sure your straps are not rubbing/touching on anything between the trailer mounting point and the bike mounting point. Especially if on something sharp. They can rub through or cut through completely, loosening your load.

In the picture below, the front left corner, diagonal strap of the trailer was pressing up against the ramps. Before I drove off I made sure all straps are nice and tight (I made sure to say "that's not going anywhere") and that the bike was nicely secured. But I was too excited witih my new purchase and did not notice this.
While driving, I was checking the bike in the rear view mirror every 30 seconds or so. However, somewhere around the half way point of the 401, between Windsor and Milton, the bike all of a sudden became lop sided and leaning towards the left.
I pulled over immediately to investigate and found the one strap had cut itself on the sharp edge or the ramp. Thankfully I had extra straps with me so strapped the bike again and adjusted the ramps. Now I have a ratchet with no hook on it.

Make sure to double check your load.

1699936322125.png1699936701514.png
 
Yes, similar to those but I think the ones I have are 3/8". I recall looking around to find ones that had a decent load rating on them. Another option is to just get straps that have spring clips on the J hooks. Either will work to be absolutely sure there is no way anything can become unhooked no matter how big a bump I hit, without feeling like I have to crank the bike's suspension down all the way onto the stops.

I prefer simple cambuckle lashing straps like these. Feed the loose end of the strap through the tiedown ring on the trailer, then through the carabiner, then into the cambuckle to form one large loop. It makes it a really easy one-person job to just walk the bike up onto the trailer, reach down to grab the carabiner with one hand and hook it onto the tie-down ring that is mounted on the bike, and give the free end of the strap a quick pull to get the tension right.

Any straps that you can recommend that has spring clips on the J hooks? Amazon or Home Depot?

I am going to quote this to better understand the process.

"I prefer simple cambuckle lashing straps like these. Feed the loose end of the strap through the tiedown ring on the trailer, then through the carabiner, then into the cambuckle to form one large loop. It makes it a really easy one-person job to just walk the bike up onto the trailer, reach down to grab the carabiner with one hand and hook it onto the tie-down ring that is mounted on the bike, and give the free end of the strap a quick pull to get the tension right."

Are you doing double loops? A pic would explain. Thank you.
 
You just need a stool to step up between the ground and the tailgate, as you walk beside the bike, using the clutch to pull the bike up the ramp.

Ridgeline is low enough. I do the same with a full size chevy silverado.

And yeah, strap the ramp so it won't move... or have a friend recording you when you don't.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
This is exactly what I do now. I used to use a second ramp but when it got too rotted I just started useing a small step that rides in my tongue mounted box.
 
Any straps that you can recommend that has spring clips on the J hooks? Amazon or Home Depot?

I am going to quote this to better understand the process.

"I prefer simple cambuckle lashing straps like these. Feed the loose end of the strap through the tiedown ring on the trailer, then through the carabiner, then into the cambuckle to form one large loop. It makes it a really easy one-person job to just walk the bike up onto the trailer, reach down to grab the carabiner with one hand and hook it onto the tie-down ring that is mounted on the bike, and give the free end of the strap a quick pull to get the tension right."

Are you doing double loops? A pic would explain. Thank you.
You might be over thinking this. Put the bike on the trailer on the side stand. Put the strap on the bars on that side and take up the slack. Then go to the other side, install and tighten that strap. By the time the bike is pulled upright to the right (non side stand side) the forks will be compressed. Snug up side to side if they need more compression. Then one or two straps on the back to compress the rear suspension a bit to keep it from bouncing (and doing and endo if you have to slam on the brakes). Tie or wrap any remaining lengths of strap so they don't flap in the breeze and eat paint.
 

Back
Top Bottom