Generators | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Generators

Not sure if you'd be in the situation for the new truck but thought I'd mention the new F150 with the pro power.

Long video but really shows the strengths of the new hybrid system. Now I know why there were so many texans running their place off these earlier in the year.

7.2kw, engine only turns on periodically depending on battery and load (much quieter even while running compared to traditional generator). No need to worry about bad gas or carbs, or a separate machine to maintain or install.

I'd just set up a bypass in the panel for some key circuits and get a plug set-up. In the event of an outage just plug it in and flip the switch.
like this: Easy-Generator-to-Home-Hook-Up
Many modern car alternators can generate 200A @14v at idle. Connect an inverter and you can get about 2KW - enough emergency power to run a house.

This little cheepie is on sale for $130. It would run a furnace, fridge and a dozen LED lights. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...mobile-power-inverter-1500w-0111866p.html#srp


0111866_1
 
Many modern car alternators can generate 200A @14v at idle. Connect an inverter and you can get about 2KW - enough emergency power to run a house.

This little cheepie is on sale for $130. It would run a furnace, fridge and a dozen LED lights. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...mobile-power-inverter-1500w-0111866p.html#srp


0111866_1
Most cheap invertors (including that one) are modified sine wave. As more furnaces (and even fridges) get fancy circuit boards, there is a chance modified sine wave hurts them
Those boards are expensive.
 
Last edited:
Most cheap invertors (including that one) are modified since wave. As more furnaces (and even fridges) get fancy circuit boards, there is a chance modified sine wave hurts them
Those boards are expensive.
Yes, those things can become and expensive lesson in trying to do things cheaply.
 
Yes, those things can become and expensive lesson in trying to do things cheaply.
Agree. If I have to used modified sine, I try to keep the loads to things with easily replaceable power supplies (eg computers), motors without brains (eg psc not ecm) or cheap things (eg led light bulbs). If the smoke comes out of the circuit boards, I should be limited to a hundred dollars or so and it's really hard to hurt a dumb motor.
 
Many modern car alternators can generate 200A @14v at idle. Connect an inverter and you can get about 2KW - enough emergency power to run a house.

This little cheepie is on sale for $130. It would run a furnace, fridge and a dozen LED lights. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...mobile-power-inverter-1500w-0111866p.html#srp


0111866_1
Unless there have been BIG changes in alternators in the last couple of years you will be VERY hard pressed to find a regular car alternator that will put out 200A @14V at FULL RPM, let alone at idle.
The only "car" alternator I know of that will do that is a Denso unit found on police pack SUVs, that have a 220v 20A plug in the back to run all the cop stuff. To make it work, with an acceptable amount of "ripple" for the electronics, was to use a QUAD stator. It has 12 stator leads and 24 diodes.
A BIG 150A Leece-Neville, found on transport trucks, need 15-1600 RPM to get full field.

Your crappy tire inverter has a PEAK output of 3000 Watts, and 1500Watt nominal ... or about 13.6A at 110V... which will run A fridge OR A furnace, but not both... and being from crappy tire you can be pretty well assured it will over heat with continuous use.
... and the most expensive part of that inverter is the sine wave converter. The more you spend on the converter, the smoother the output.
I wouldn't be plugging in anything that needs good AC power... like anything modern with a computer board... into that thing.
What I used to do to have a computer at the track was plug a decent quality UPS into the inverter or generator and run the computer off the UPS
 
Unless there have been BIG changes in alternators in the last couple of years you will be VERY hard pressed to find a regular car alternator that will put out 200A @14V at FULL RPM, let alone at idle.
The only "car" alternator I know of that will do that is a Denso unit found on police pack SUVs, that have a 220v 20A plug in the back to run all the cop stuff. To make it work, with an acceptable amount of "ripple" for the electronics, was to use a QUAD stator. It has 12 stator leads and 24 diodes.
A BIG 150A Leece-Neville, found on transport trucks, need 15-1600 RPM to get full field.

Your crappy tire inverter has a PEAK output of 3000 Watts, and 1500Watt nominal ... or about 13.6A at 110V... which will run A fridge OR A furnace, but not both... and being from crappy tire you can be pretty well assured it will over heat with continuous use.
... and the most expensive part of that inverter is the sine wave converter. The more you spend on the converter, the smoother the output.
I wouldn't be plugging in anything that needs good AC power... like anything modern with a computer board... into that thing.
What I used to do to have a computer at the track was plug a decent quality UPS into the inverter or generator and run the computer off the UPS
You need a better than decent quality UPS to get full sine wave. If you power most ups's off a modified sine wave they will kick over to the internal battery because the incoming power is so ugly. At one point I tried daisy chaining ups to extend run time but as soon as power dropped to the first one, all switched to battery so only the last one was contributing anything, the rest were just wasting battery power running their internal fan.
 
Last edited:
Unless there have been BIG changes in alternators in the last couple of years you will be VERY hard pressed to find a regular car alternator that will put out 200A @14V at FULL RPM, let alone at idle.
The only "car" alternator I know of that will do that is a Denso unit found on police pack SUVs, that have a 220v 20A plug in the back to run all the cop stuff. To make it work, with an acceptable amount of "ripple" for the electronics, was to use a QUAD stator. It has 12 stator leads and 24 diodes.
A BIG 150A Leece-Neville, found on transport trucks, need 15-1600 RPM to get full field.

Your crappy tire inverter has a PEAK output of 3000 Watts, and 1500Watt nominal ... or about 13.6A at 110V... which will run A fridge OR A furnace, but not both... and being from crappy tire you can be pretty well assured it will over heat with continuous use.
... and the most expensive part of that inverter is the sine wave converter. The more you spend on the converter, the smoother the output.
I wouldn't be plugging in anything that needs good AC power... like anything modern with a computer board... into that thing.
What I used to do to have a computer at the track was plug a decent quality UPS into the inverter or generator and run the computer off the UPS
There has been a big jump in alternators in the last few years. Take a Chev Cruze 1.4 for example, it's standard alternator cranks out 140A @14.5v. That will get you about 1500w constant -- a typical fridge (350W) and furnace with 1/2hp blower (400w) running together would be about 50%. Both have a higher draw at startup, but not enough to overpower a little CTC 1.5kw inverter. Neither will be running non stop. It's not a perfect solution, but you could manage to keep the house warm and the fridge cold.

I yanked the 400lb ONAN 4.5kw gennie from my boat and traded it for 250A alternators and a Renology 2kw Pure Sine inverter. I have one alternator setup to push 180A at 900rpm. My second inverter/charger gives me another 2kw when both hearts are pounding.
 
There has been a big jump in alternators in the last few years. Take a Chev Cruze 1.4 for example, it's standard alternator cranks out 140A @14.5v. That will get you about 1500w constant -- a typical fridge (350W) and furnace with 1/2hp blower (400w) running together would be about 50%. Both have a higher draw at startup, but not enough to overpower a little CTC 1.5kw inverter. Neither will be running non stop. It's not a perfect solution, but you could manage to keep the house warm and the fridge cold.

I yanked the 400lb ONAN 4.5kw gennie from my boat and traded it for 250A alternators and a Renology 2kw Pure Sine inverter. I have one alternator setup to push 180A at 900rpm. My second inverter/charger gives me another 2kw when both hearts are pounding.
The alternator output is dependant on RPM. There is a curve, it is not linear of course. If you want that 140 amps it won't be at idle, the alternator is likely spinning around 6000 rpm plus (maybe even 8000) and the car motor in the 2000 to 3000 range dependant on the ratio of the pulleys.

Not looking at the specific specs of the Cruze just knowing how these things work. As noted that CTC inverter is a bad idea unless you want to potentially damage some appliances with its output wave....
 
I've had about 6 generators over the years:

- A cheapie 600w(?) 2 stroker that was more toy than anything else, but it kept a few lights on when there was no power. Wasn't any good for much else.

- Yardworks 1000w. Bought it for $100 or something like that strictly for charging the house batteries on our 5th wheel. Electronics fried one day for no apparent reason. Was subsequently recalled I found about a year later - returned the basket of parts to Canadian Tire for a ~$600 cash refund.

- Champion 3500w open frame. The thing was a Timex and lived in the back of my 1-Ton for about 5 years under the tonneau. Always started no matter what weather/season. Powered our entire 5th wheel. Wasn't even that super noisy, but too noisy for campgrounds. Sold it for more than I paid for it 5 years later.

- Honeywell 2000 inverter. Quieter than the Champ open frame was, but it was an overall disappointing experience. Wouldn't fire off our 13.5K roof AC unit, but powered everything else just fine. Wasn't as quiet as I wanted however for campground use. Sold it only a month or so after buying it.

- Champion 2000 watt "square" unit. Ended up with 2 of these eventually along with the parallel kit. Still struggled to start our roof AC unit even in parallel and with eco mode disengaged - would start it 90% of the time, but that 10% of the time always ended up being in the middle of the night - going out and shutting down and restarting generators in your underwear at 3AM on a hot sweltering day wasn't endearing. But they were quiet and super reliable. But the AC thing was a show stopper, so I sold them both about a year, then....

- Honda eu2000i. Yep, should have just bought this one from the onset. It was also a Timex. It started our 5th wheels roof air consistently even in eco mode, I was constantly amazed. Served us well for years. Expensive, but yeah, you get what you pay for.

When we sold the 5th wheel I kept the Honda in my garage for a year or two and then realized I hadn't ever used it again so I sold it.

I also kept my Tripp-Lite 2500w inverter I had on the 5th wheel which was a pure-sine unit. I hooked up a short run of cable with some booster clamps on them for rapid hookup to a battery, and now I use our EV's for backup - when I need power for whatever reason, I just access the 12V battery on either of our EV's, hookup the inverter, and when the car is on it takes power from the main traction battery to keep the 12V topped up, effectively powering the inverter. When we had the Volt and the Ioniq we effectively had over 40 kilowatt hours sitting in our driveway without needing to burn a drop of gas. Now with 2 Volts again it's down to about 25kwh, but that's still more than enough to power our entire house for days, and once the traction batteries get low the engine just starts and cycles on/off to maintain things, so we can then go days longer until we run out of gas.

Anyhow, last summer when we bought our little camper again I found one of the older Champion square-units on Kijiji for $150 and snapped it up. It's serving us well again, although our wattage requirements are much lower on the tiny trailer. AC is only a few hundred watts. Battery charging, also only a few hundred watts. Biggest load is the induction cooktop, but you're not running that for long periods, but it does run it perfectly fine.

Anyhow, if I were buying something for home essentials (and noise wasn't a super big concern) I'd buy a Champion ~3000w open frame and then just run extension cords where you need them through a door. Hardwired units with transfer switches and auto start and all that good stuff makes sense if you live somewhere where the power goes off every time a mouse farts in the woods, but if you're only talking once or twice a year thing, a portable will get the job done, is way cheaper, and can be used for other stuff if needed.

Most people drastically over estimate what they need for power. Unless you want to run your central air or your electric range or something, 3000w is plenty, and 2000w will work.

Anyone looking and finding stock short right now, check out pawn shops. Cash Converters in Oshawa had no less than 5 or 6 generators last night when I was there, al the way from a 2000w Firman still in the box to a 5000w Champion, and a few in between.
 
Gotta love that it took them until 2019 to respond to a 2013 issue.
And they have some confusing bits in it. It appears to address a temporary generator and extension cords but then there's this:

"In preparation of such setup during a power failure, conductors must be treated as “LIVE” to avoid shock hazard if the main power returns. Ensure panel directory is up to date and if in doubt, shut the main disconnect off. "

According to the rest of the document, you unplugged appliances from receptacles and plugged them into extension cords. How would someone be exposed to live conductors if power returns? I suspect a previous draft had some information regarding more dangerous methods of hookup (like pulling wires from breakers and adding a male receptacle so you can power the required circuits all from one location instead of cords throughout the house).

FWIW, in the interest of preservation of my crap, if the power either goes out or is really flaky, I normally throw the main breaker on the house. I have had it come back before single phase or voltage way off. Let the neighbours appliances blow up. When power comes back on, I turn on one 240V circuit and check for reasonable power before I bring the rest of the house online (if you have them, kitchen split plugs are an easy place to check).
 
We have a 22 kW generac generator that covers the whole house

Just out of curiosity, why so big? Electric baseboard heating or something?
 
Bigger unit is great for summer outages. Many a/c units gobble 30 or more amps alone. If you go with a common 14k to 16kw unit good for around 50amps or so, that leaves you with 20amps for everything else. Granted a/c is a cycling load, but still nice to have extra power on top for the small price diff of going with a larger genny
 
Bigger unit is great for summer outages. Many a/c units gobble 30 or more amps alone. If you go with a common 14k to 16kw unit good for around 50amps or so, that leaves you with 20amps for everything else. Granted a/c is a cycling load, but still nice to have extra power on top for the small price diff of going with a larger genny
The high fuel consumption steered me away the big units why waste 2x the propane.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
 
I want everything powered all the time, summer pool, winter Swimspa, all the lights around the house the heated floors the air-conditioning all the TVs. Garages , well, gate . I like luxury 24 seven no interruptions

You need more than 22 to power all that
 

Back
Top Bottom