Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 306 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

2x4s you will find at HomoDepot and Lowes ect, are graded #2+btr , which means its at least a #2 piece of wood, maybe better. Big mills do not make 1x2 and 1x3 ect. That is produced by smaller reman centers ( like mine) , you take #3 and sometimes #4 , 2x3's and 2x4s and mill them out . Thats why you get 5/8, 11/16 instead of 3/4 occasionally . Saw kerf loss. You will also see premium 1x2 and 1x3 , which may mean it was cut from better material (or not). Faster reman centers will also buy in partially air dried or surface dry and mill it into strapping , but now you have exposed the wet core and there comes the warp.

Lord help the guy that buys 2x4 econos and frames his basement , as hundreds do, they will shrink and twist and pop the drywall screws out.
 
Good insight.

Does anyone know what "bird poop" duct sealant is actually called? It's a ruberry sealant that is painted on duct seams to seal them. It's gray, its sticky, and looks like bird poop when someone brushes against it.
 
crankcall said:
2x4s you will find at HomoDepot and Lowes ect, are graded #2+btr , which means its at least a #2 piece of wood, maybe better. Big mills do not make 1x2 and 1x3 ect. That is produced by smaller reman centers ( like mine) , you take #3 and sometimes #4 , 2x3's and 2x4s and mill them out . Thats why you get 5/8, 11/16 instead of 3/4 occasionally . Saw kerf loss. You will also see premium 1x2 and 1x3 , which may mean it was cut from better material (or not). Faster reman centers will also buy in partially air dried or surface dry and mill it into strapping , but now you have exposed the wet core and there comes the warp.

Lord help the guy that buys 2x4 econos and frames his basement , as hundreds do, they will shrink and twist and pop the drywall screws out.
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Father in Law was a finish carpenter and he saw many times where framers would finish a house in the winter with heaters to keep the wood shape.

Screw it together, cover it in drywall and GTFO.

Go to the same house 3 months later when warm weather hits and not a single wall mates to the walls around it. Ceilings dipping. Door frames bowing.

Disaster. But hey the carpenters got paid.
 
I was hired to put mouldings on an entrance way at a friends Mcmansion, wall was 16ft high and 18 ft long . String line revealed a 3.5” bow top to bottom and a 2.25 speed wave in two horizontal sections . You could not install wainscoting on that wall , it would look horrible . He sued the builder and they reframed the wall . When changing the carpet to hardwood on the upper floors the carpet guy found the 2 story white oak spiral stair was only tacked in place with two 3” toenails , they never finished installing it . Just the temp fasteners. He had to move out , house was 8 months old. Builder repaired the stair , buddy sold the house


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daught said:
Good insight.

Does anyone know what "bird poop" duct sealant is actually called? It's a ruberry sealant that is painted on duct seams to seal them. It's gray, its sticky, and looks like bird poop when someone brushes against it.
Click to expand...
Red Devil 0841DX F Seal 181 Water Based Duct Sealant, 1 Gallon, Gray

https://a.co/d/hn4ir8J

Duct Seal | Marks Supply

Since 1962 Marks Supply has been wholesaling top-quality Plumbing , P.V.F. , Hydronics and HVAC products to our customers with a level of service recognized throughout the industry as exceptional.
www.markssupply.ca www.markssupply.ca
 
Will be repairing a loose faucet handle tonight...good excuse for a new tool this morning.

1677071724423.png

Thinking I should probably pick up an o-ring seal kit while I'm at it. I'm seeing more black rubber bits when we turn the handle so it looks like the seals are drying up.
 
crankcall said:
I was hired to put mouldings on an entrance way at a friends Mcmansion, wall was 16ft high and 18 ft long . String line revealed a 3.5” bow top to bottom and a 2.25 speed wave in two horizontal sections . You could not install wainscoting on that wall , it would look horrible . He sued the builder and they reframed the wall . When changing the carpet to hardwood on the upper floors the carpet guy found the 2 story white oak spiral stair was only tacked in place with two 3” toenails , they never finished installing it . Just the temp fasteners. He had to move out , house was 8 months old. Builder repaired the stair , buddy sold the house


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Was removing a kitchen and four bathrooms (we left the bathroom on the main floor!) from a Mcmansion in London for Habitat.
Big sweeping spiral staircase, but it wasn't wood it was all curved/bent drywall and corner bead. From the top you looked down on this, what should have been a beautiful spiral but about 2/3 down there was a kink. Maybe a 1/4" deviation upwards in the corner bead on one side. Every time I used the stairs my eye went right to it.
 
timtune said:
Was removing a kitchen and four bathrooms (we left the bathroom on the main floor!) from a Mcmansion in London for Habitat.
Big sweeping spiral staircase, but it wasn't wood it was all curved/bent drywall and corner bead. From the top you looked down on this, what should have been a beautiful spiral but about 2/3 down there was a kink. Maybe a 1/4" deviation upwards in the corner bead on one side. Every time I used the stairs my eye went right to it.
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Had a meeting in an architects office last week. Their boardroom is long with a window at one end and a drywall reveal detail about eye height when you are sitting. Ooof. That is a nightmare construction scenario but they probably shouldn't have let the blind guy build it. I have no idea how the architects signed the cheque nor how they haven't fixed it. I was there for a few hours and almost jumped out the window.
 
GreyGhost said:
Had a meeting in an architects office last week. Their boardroom is long with a window at one end and a drywall reveal detail about eye height when you are sitting. Ooof. That is a nightmare construction scenario but they probably shouldn't have let the blind guy build it. I have no idea how the architects signed the cheque nor how they haven't fixed it. I was there for a few hours and almost jumped out the window.
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My house has an extension. From all that we have found we aren’t sure it was built by completely competent builders and have been sorting out some issues as we go along. We have been looking at renovating the kitchen in this extension and so I’ve been looking at countertops and backsplashes. Measuring up for the backsplash I saw something odd so measured from the countertop to the kitchen window sill along the length of the window. It’s out a fair bit and now I can’t not see it. Who the hell doesn’t use a level?
 
jc100 said:
My house has an extension. From all that we have found we aren’t sure it was built by completely competent builders and have been sorting out some issues as we go along. We have been looking at renovating the kitchen in this extension and so I’ve been looking at countertops and backsplashes. Measuring up for the backsplash I saw something odd so measured from the countertop to the kitchen window sill along the length of the window. It’s out a fair bit and now I can’t not see it. Who the hell doesn’t use a level?
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We looked at a house once with a sunroom added on to the back. It was setup as a breakfast area open to kitchen. Kitchen island was partly in original house and partly in addition. Slope on island was inches out. It was like a boat where you were physically leaning to stand straight. Went in the backyard and sunroom had separated at top and tipped away from house. They had spray foamed the gap (most of 6") and added another row of shingles. Run away.
 
Installed 3 potlights on shed and 8 potlights on the house soffit. The one's on the house all had to be wired from inside the attic which I absolutely hate going up there (blown in insulation). House does look nicer lit up now though and adding potlights is something else new I now know how to do.
 
we owned a cottage for a short time we bought from the 'builder' . windows in the sun room were about my forhead hieght , all installed about 12" too high. you coukld only see the lake from a bar stool . Drove me bananas for the few yrs we had the place. When we listed we took all the chairs except the bar stools out of that room . problem solved .
 
Wife has nixed the idea of the addition. Said that for 300-350k we can make better use of that money (which I agree with).

However, she's asked if we can talk to a designer to get us some drawings / sketches and add a mudroom at the front entrance (with a porch), a sun room out back (where the deck currently is) and to sketch up some designs for how to lay the exterior siding.

Those drawings should cost me less than 5k so may be worth it.

I've got an appointment with a LOWE's PRO shop tomorrow morning at 6am to discuss pricing of Hardie siding.
 
I’m all for hiring an architectural designer , I think it’s money well spent , way to many houses I see with an addition that makes you say , wonder how they thought that was going to look ?


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crankcall said:
I’m all for hiring an architectural designer , I think it’s money well spent , way to many houses I see with an addition that makes you say , wonder how they thought that was going to look ?


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Just make sure you hire the right one. McMansions have architectural designers too.
 
Looks like my room humidifier crapped out and needs to be replaced. It's just one of those portable units from Honeywell. Something to do for about 400 sqf etc. no filters nonsense.

Any recommendations?
 
sburns said:
Looks like my room humidifier crapped out and needs to be replaced. It's just one of those portable units from Honeywell. Something to do for about 400 sqf etc. no filters nonsense.

Any recommendations?
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I would get one hooked up with the furnace, gets the whole house and for me it was about $250-300 at the time of furnace install.
 
mimico_polak said:
I would get one hooked up with the furnace, gets the whole house and for me it was about $250-300 at the time of furnace install.
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Also helps with hardwood floors, plants, dry nose/skin. I had a look at mine and I’d even go so far to suggest it might be user installable (don’t take my word for that though). The water line looks to be something like a refrigerator water supply line taken from another pipe as a source and the entire unit looks pretty compact (I think it’s a Honeywell). Mine has a manual master switch and I need to head down there twice a year to turn it on and then off again.
 
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