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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Don’t happen to know the make of that do you?
I used to see alot of those going through the ReStore. Most were scratched and looked like hell - CC's is the odd one out. The grate thing in the bottom is a pain in the ass now that I have one. First inch of hot soapy water is a waste and cutlery is always getting under them. Can't take it out as it makes the sink deeper and then hurts my back doing dishes. If you don't get black, the lighter granite ones show stains.
Appreciate the feedback. We don’t do dishes in the sink unless the things are too big to fit in the dishwasher or if they aren’t dishwasher safe. This is more for washing veggies/rinsing and washing out large items. So here’s what I’m concerned about…occasionally I (carefully..but accidents happen) wash my cast iron BBQ griddle in the sink before drying it, oiling it and putting it away. I also wash big heavy stainless casserole pans in there too. Those are really the only two things I’m concerned about as it they are dropped they could chip the sink. The only time cutlery is in the sink is if there’s a dishwasher load on and we need somewhere to put it but then it’s not moved around.
I read the care instructions for one sink and a couple of things stood out. No steel scouring pads and no bleach products as they might discolour the finish. Also don’t leave things in the sink for a long time. Certainly more care instructions than for a stainless sink.
Decisions. I wonder how careful we can be for the next X years and have something that looks really sharp or just go with dependable stainless.
I read the care instructions for one sink and a couple of things stood out. No steel scouring pads and no bleach products as they might discolour the finish. Also don’t leave things in the sink for a long time. Certainly more care instructions than for a stainless sink.
Decisions. I wonder how careful we can be for the next X years and have something that looks really sharp or just go with dependable stainless.
I like the look , I can live with some shotcomings, last home had a massive farmhouse style porcelain apron front sink, US house had a soapstone sink and counter, want perpetual maintenence and fear, put in soapstone.
If it suits the space its hard to do better than stainless , and they made some very nice stainless products.
If it suits the space its hard to do better than stainless , and they made some very nice stainless products.
We learned a very, very costly lesson with a real slate floor and shower. Couldn’t wait to rip that crap out with the constant upkeep it needed and the way it didn’t play well with water stains. Yes we sealed it every year too!. It did look amazing when it was installed though. Contractor had to jackhammer the concrete floor base out of the shower too which wasn’t fun.
Just read about another potential issue. We wash paintbrushes in the kitchen sink whenever we paint as it’s the biggest in the house and someone stated it left permanent haze on theirs.
I think we’ll play it safe and get stainless with a black faucet maybe as a compromise. This way we can spend the difference on a really good stainless one I guess and not worry about discolouration etc.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Thank you
Guy from JHardie is off until Monday so I haven’t gotten quote yet.
Once I do I’ll let you know.
Compared the JH to Cape Cod wooden siding.
JH is around $3.5/sqft compared to CC at $6.5/sqft at RONA.
That's easy for me. Maintenance free and almost invincible for half the money? I dont live in a historical preservation district with architectural control by rich old bastards. Jh for me.
Mikedezo44
Well-known member
I have same brand, in more traditional style sink close to 20 years old not a single scratch or mark I can find on it. Everyday use.
AllistonGT
Well-known member
Couldn't agree more.
Wood siding is a look and a texture , a design feature . It was great before someone created something better.
No ants or termites, fire resistant, no rot or mold . Doesn’t warp .
And I’m in the wood business
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
No ants or termites, fire resistant, no rot or mold . Doesn’t warp .
And I’m in the wood business
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
I've a tiny bit of experience in the field and sketched up a second story addition for a friend, maximizing space and minimizing costs.
Fortunately he hired an architect that saw things differently. Instead of a box he got a house with fantastic curb appeal. There's more to it than $ per square foot.
I knew two retirees that signed up calling themselves TOF construction. Two Old Farts.
Did they wear Bible dresses? Lo and behold?
To avoid excessively long tapcons I've used a speedbore to countersink the stud / strap. It's a PITA for a large area. I would also be concerned about wood movement so would go with girths to lock the straps in place.
Going with thicker insulation is a one time expense with a long term energy savings.
I assume horizontal siding. I would like to put new siding on my shed but want vertical. Running parallel to the framing members has me scratching my head.
We had a call from an customer saying the patio door he bought was defective, not closing tight.
After the usual Q&A about leveling the track etc and being told they had, we sent a techie out. He found the sill out by 1/2". The installer, in broken English, insisted it was level and pulled out his level to prove it. It was a Pacific rim wooden level from a dollar store.
Was it sloped the same direction when he flipped the level? Even with my good levels, they get checked often to ensure something hasnt gone wrong.We had a call from an customer saying the patio door he bought was defective, not closing tight.
After the usual Q&A about leveling the track etc and being told they had, we sent a techie out. He found the sill out by 1/2". The installer, in broken English, insisted it was level and pulled out his level to prove it. It was a Pacific rim wooden level from a dollar store.
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