Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 307 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Got a furnace? Adding a humidifier to it for the whole house isn’t too expensive.
I would get one hooked up with the furnace, gets the whole house and for me it was about $250-300 at the time of furnace install.
Here's the thing...

I do have a furnace with a humidifier. It's a high efficiently and dries the house out sooo much. So I set the temp lower not to dry everything out. Also to add I have one of those forced air humidifiers with a metal pad, it's sucks basically (Air king etc). I've been meaning to replace it with something more active and without a metal pad do-dad. On top of this I also have a HRV, which allows you to mechanically mix outside air into your house, I think it was a bit of a waste of money as opening a window can do the same thing, anyhow I think the way the ducting is mixed for the HRV kind impacts how effective the humidifier works on the furnace, since I don't run the HRV all the time the moist air might not move as much.

There you have it. Most likely will replace the on furnace humidifier, and the stupid old school inaccurate dial thing with something better.
 
Here's the thing...

I do have a furnace with a humidifier. It's a high efficiently and dries the house out sooo much. So I set the temp lower not to dry everything out. Also to add I have one of those forced air humidifiers with a metal pad, it's sucks basically (Air king etc). I've been meaning to replace it with something more active and without a metal pad do-dad. On top of this I also have a HRV, which allows you to mechanically mix outside air into your house, I think it was a bit of a waste of money as opening a window can do the same thing, anyhow I think the way the ducting is mixed for the HRV kind impacts how effective the humidifier works on the furnace, since I don't run the HRV all the time the moist air might not move as much.

There you have it. Most likely will replace the on furnace humidifier, and the stupid old school inaccurate dial thing with something better.

Gotcha. We have crappy ductwork/end of run problems with a high efficiency unit but the humidifier does make a huge difference. Before we had it fitted I would know we were really into winter once I started receiving regular electric shocks all over the place. At least I know I don’t have a serious cardiac issue.
 
Here's the thing...

I do have a furnace with a humidifier. It's a high efficiently and dries the house out sooo much. So I set the temp lower not to dry everything out. Also to add I have one of those forced air humidifiers with a metal pad, it's sucks basically (Air king etc). I've been meaning to replace it with something more active and without a metal pad do-dad. On top of this I also have a HRV, which allows you to mechanically mix outside air into your house, I think it was a bit of a waste of money as opening a window can do the same thing, anyhow I think the way the ducting is mixed for the HRV kind impacts how effective the humidifier works on the furnace, since I don't run the HRV all the time the moist air might not move as much.

There you have it. Most likely will replace the on furnace humidifier, and the stupid old school inaccurate dial thing with something better.
Here’s the one I have

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We had an issue with too much moisture on the inside of the windows, so I changed the settings (above dial) to the least amount), and there's an option on the ECOBEE to adjust the humidity (but no clue if that works or not).

Once we had it installed the air became much better in the house.

And since GTAMs recommendation of running the fan more often during the day...the house has been notably better with the circulation and holding heat. Notable difference...but house still blows.

Going to see the Pro Desk at LOWEs tonight for James Hardie, and a RONA for Cape Cod tomorrow.
 
Here's the thing...

I do have a furnace with a humidifier. It's a high efficiently and dries the house out sooo much. So I set the temp lower not to dry everything out. Also to add I have one of those forced air humidifiers with a metal pad, it's sucks basically (Air king etc). I've been meaning to replace it with something more active and without a metal pad do-dad. On top of this I also have a HRV, which allows you to mechanically mix outside air into your house, I think it was a bit of a waste of money as opening a window can do the same thing, anyhow I think the way the ducting is mixed for the HRV kind impacts how effective the humidifier works on the furnace, since I don't run the HRV all the time the moist air might not move as much.

There you have it. Most likely will replace the on furnace humidifier, and the stupid old school inaccurate dial thing with something better.
Hrv is a very efficient dehumidifier in the winter (dry air in, moist air out). Opposite of what you want.

I have had furnace humidifiers on last two houses. Rarely used due to crap ass control issues. With new thermostat controlling humidifier, lots more use. It makes better decisions about when to run humidifier.
 
We run a humidifier all cold months , separate unit sits in the middle of the house , I’ve not had a furnace unit that wasn’t constantly needing attention.


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Hrv is a very efficient dehumidifier in the winter (dry air in, moist air out). Opposite of what you want.

I have had furnace humidifiers on last two houses. Rarely used due to crap ass control issues. With new thermostat controlling humidifier, lots more use. It makes better decisions about when to run humidifier.
Mine has some humidification to it. I can set it at the controls. Yeah I have 3 sets of dumb controls.

Anywho.. I want to do some work to the furnace, when it was installed it they wrapped the in/out fresh air pipes in front of the panel in the duck work to access the air conditioner A frame coil. I want to change that so I can get back in there to do some clean up etc.
So if I have to modify this, I might do the whole upgrade to the humidifier at the same time, which I will do all myself.
Dealt with to many dumb contractors.
 
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I've got one of these:

It's expensive for what is basically just a bucket, fan and wick. But it's simple, works well, and does the whole house if you put it near a cold air return duct (my furnace fan is set to run constantly to circulate air through the house). I dump probably 10 litres into it every day in the winter. The wicking filter is cheap and lasts the entire winter, and gets thrown away in the spring because by that point it's totally mineralized due to the really hard water in my area. It doesn't leave white mineral deposits all over everything in the house like an ultrasonic unit does.

I don't mind the manual filling because it forces me to examine its condition and dump in some disinfectant every now and then, which is something I wouldn't remember to do with a furnace-mounted unit. Legionnaires' disease, etc.
 
Had a good chat at LOWES about the Hardie siding. Helpful and knowledgeable and the cost for siding material alone is about 10k or so. 5% discount for contractors plus another 10% off when their sales go on.

Waiting for full pricing tomorrow and then May pull the trigger hopefully soon.

Can start buttoning up the furring strips and insulation once weather gets better.

I figure if I come in within 20k I’m saving 15-20k (35k against the f@$k off price I got for vinyl at 55k).
 
Had a good chat at LOWES about the Hardie siding. Helpful and knowledgeable and the cost for siding material alone is about 10k or so. 5% discount for contractors plus another 10% off when their sales go on.

Waiting for full pricing tomorrow and then May pull the trigger hopefully soon.

Can start buttoning up the furring strips and insulation once weather gets better.

I figure if I come in within 20k I’m saving 15-20k (35k against the f@$k off price I got for vinyl at 55k).
I may use the same on a shed build. I don't see it on Lowes website. Do you have a cost/length?
 
I may use the same on a shed build. I don't see it on Lowes website. Do you have a cost/length?
$9600/2200sqft so approx 4.3/sqft

That’s assuming approximately 350 boards as they’re sold individually. Around $22/each but price/piece goes down over 350 pieces.

I’ll let you know tomorrow as that’s when I get a quote for lap siding, and also for Hardie Board and Batten.
 
Was having a heck of a time with my Pfister faucet this week as it was acting all wonky.

The whole base would move, water would run in both CW and CCW direction and I couldn’t get it tightened.

Emailed Pfister out of frustrating and they’re sending a replacement free of charge as I’m the original owner.

Sometimes it’s worth to look into warranties instead of replacing things right off the bat!
 
Was having a heck of a time with my Pfister faucet this week as it was acting all wonky.

The whole base would move, water would run in both CW and CCW direction and I couldn’t get it tightened.

Emailed Pfister out of frustrating and they’re sending a replacement free of charge as I’m the original owner.

Sometimes it’s worth to look into warranties instead of replacing things right off the bat!
My American Standard faucet set for the bath is 20 years old. They sent us free cartridges when it was leaking.
 
My American Standard faucet set for the bath is 20 years old. They sent us free cartridges when it was leaking.
Yes. I was hoping at least to get a cartridge or part…

‘Due to us not having parts we will send you a replacement unit in 10-14 days’

The faucet is 3 years old…

8142AD17-4F9C-4040-9D07-D9F1E9D94094.jpeg
 
Anyone have a granite/polymer (stone) kitchen sink? Looking to get a black one instead of stainless steel for the new kitchen but wondering if it can discolour/chip easily or not? Happy with it or would you swap it out?
 
Anyone have a granite/polymer (stone) kitchen sink? Looking to get a black one instead of stainless steel for the new kitchen but wondering if it can discolour/chip easily or not? Happy with it or would you swap it out?

Personally I wouldn't, there's no way it will be resistant to metal cutlery scratching it up no matter how hard they try to say it is.
 
Personally I wouldn't, there's no way it will be resistant to metal cutlery scratching it up no matter how hard they try to say it is.
I agree. Nobody is careful when washing anything in a kitchen sink (or doing other things unless you have a laundry tub close by). It will take a beating and I personally doubt it will hold up.

Having said that I do not have any experience with one. It will look great when installed though.
 
Anyone have a granite/polymer (stone) kitchen sink? Looking to get a black one instead of stainless steel for the new kitchen but wondering if it can discolour/chip easily or not? Happy with it or would you swap it out?
Anyone I knew that had one had a mat in the bottom. Either a metal grille or a rubbery matt. Boo. Now I need to clean the things I installed to protect my sink? Form before function for me. Now, I didnt ask if the stupid protection was there to hide marks or prevent them.
 
Anyone I knew that had one had a mat in the bottom. Either a metal grille or a rubbery matt. Boo. Now I need to clean the things I installed to protect my sink? Form before function for me. Now, I didnt ask if the stupid protection was there to hide marks or prevent them.
We would be getting the grates that go in the bottom whether it’s a stainless or granite sink. I need to know some real world experience as what we have planned would look really good with a polymer/stone sink BUT my main concern is chipping. Apparently (again, salesman talk though) scratches don’t show on the polymer/stone sinks whereas they do on a stainless sink. Our current stainless sink is a scratched up specimen.

Materials have come a long way but I just have no experience with these. The stuff certainly looks durable and I was surprised they are only about $150 more than a good stainless sink. We can also get one with a dry rack and cutting board accessory too. Planning to get a matt black kitchen faucet and dark countertops with white cabinets so a black sink would look pretty swish.
 
We wanted to do that black sink in our new build in '20 and the kitchen store talked us out of it (reputable shop and they would've made more money by selling us the pricier black sink). Like others have stated they told us it'll look great at the start but cutlery will mark it up quickly. We're even careful with the stainless one we have (and also have the bottom rack/grate) but drops happen and you can't control guests when you have company/parties.
 
This one is 19yrs old , it’s been just fine .I may replace it with another one as it’s showing a little age , but I’ll put another granite sink in . Image1677326473.127179.jpg

No mats in the bottom , no actual visible scratches , are aren’t stupid with in and put pots off the stove directly in , but zero concerns with day to day life


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